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I replaced a clutch on my Sportster many years ago. The clutch manufacturer advised not to use Syn 3 in the primary/trans. I asked why, and he was a bit hesitant to tell me (think he didn't want to bad mouth HD). He suggested to run Type F ATF in the trans/primary. He said the syn 3 was a bit too slick and they had had clutch slippage issues in the past. I have run Type F ATF and Formula + in Sporty and the last 2 Street Glides with no issues. Just be careful with what you use in your primary....remember you have a clutch in there and a really "slippery" oil could make it slip!
Your good to go 4 qts in the motor will get you by then just buy another qt when your going by the next dealer or if your just on a day ride once you get home.
Figured this would happen like in every other fluid question thread...I went back to dealer and bought regular old dino motor oil due to reading past threads on this forum plus I don't put a lot of miles on my bikes. Between our 3 year old daughter/two dogs/dirt bikes and the boat I switch from activity to activity. Less than 3k in a year on the harley in very little stop and go traffic dino oil will be perfect. Plus from what everyone is posting dino oil in the 114 seems to keep the motor quiet compared to full synthetic.
primary is formula+ which i had and for now that synthetic trans oil till i order redline shockproof which is supposed to help quiet the clunk between gears. Personally I think it's due to the added weight oil since a trans should use 90wt minimum and not that super thin oil they use stock
I decided to go back to my dealer to buy lubricants for the first 1,000 mile change.
Parts manager told me I only need
1) 4 quarts for the engine oil which I bought syn3
2) 1 quart of heavy synthetic gear oil 80w140 for the trans
3) 1 quart of formula+ for primary
My manual says 4 quarts for refill then add to get proper level SO im now 1 qaurt low on engine oil
formula+ IS NOT SYNTHETIC !!!
I call back and they close at 6pm so I'm not gonna make it back tonight and I'm supposed to leave at 9am for a big ride tomorroand!!!
Besides the **** up does anyone run the heavy gear oil in both primary and trans? The parts manager has a notice taped to the desk stating you should run the hear oil now in the transmission due to updates from harley?
funny thing is my brother was there last week for a fluid change on his 2019 heritage with 114 and the flyer was not on the desk/parts manager said NOTHING to him about differnt fluids OR not being okay to run syn3 in all three locations?
I've seriously had it now with this dealer, time to drive the thirty minutes to the second closest one for now on
The only issue I see there is that they should have sold you 5 quarts of engine oil. I never run synthetic oil in my primary. Belray primary oil in the primary and Belray transmission oil in the transmission but the H-D gear oil is good stuff also. I've always liked Amsoil or Mobil 1 for the engine. 4.5 quarts always puts me right at the proper level. 30 oz in the primary and 28 oz in the transmission. The hotter the bike the better for changing fluids.
Figured this would happen like in every other fluid question thread...I went back to dealer and bought regular old dino motor oil due to reading past threads on this forum plus I don't put a lot of miles on my bikes. Between our 3 year old daughter/two dogs/dirt bikes and the boat I switch from activity to activity. Less than 3k in a year on the harley in very little stop and go traffic dino oil will be perfect. Plus from what everyone is posting dino oil in the 114 seems to keep the motor quiet compared to full synthetic.
primary is formula+ which i had and for now that synthetic trans oil till i order redline shockproof which is supposed to help quiet the clunk between gears. Personally I think it's due to the added weight oil since a trans should use 90wt minimum and not that super thin oil they use stock
Actually, that clunk is simple the beefy drive lugs that engage the gears sets for ever drive range. All the gear teeth are always in mesh.
What that thin 50W non detergent (relatively) oil does is flush that double row of small needle bearings were the input shaft comes thru and runs in the primary drive gear.
Being non detergent helps let crap settle to the bottom in a not filtered box.
Rarely do you ever see a broken gear tooth. Unless someone really does something crazy say like spinning a wheel in the dust and catching some rough concrete.
What you do see is trash from drive dogs that chip off causing small needles to lock up and skate.
However, driving easy, it matters little what one puts in there. They are tough and rarely wear out. Adbuse gets them mostly.
But just my opinion on what I have been seeing on here for years.
I did mean the synthetic would hurt anything. Just that it wasn't needed.
I use synthetic in all my cars and my bike I service. Down to 5 and all from new. Works great for me. Since Hondas have solid lifter check at 100K, I have see two still look like new under the valve cover. One at 180K when I replaced the leaking valve cover that I should have replace when I was under it at 100K
And that is with my oil changes once a year. Sometimes with 11k on the oil.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; May 14, 2022 at 10:15 AM.
I don't know if they changed anything since 2017 as far as oil capacity, but my Road King 107M8 took 4qts & 4oz to fill the crankcase. After I rode my bike to op temp for the 1st oil change, I let it drain for about an hour just to be sure I got as much oil out as I could (it's a used RK, I had no idea what brand oil or how long it'd been in there). 4qts filled it to the "add quart" mark on the "full hot vehicle upright" side of the dipstick while it was sitting on the jiffy/kick stand.
The engine was pretty cold by this point, so I took it for another ride & checked the dipstick again on the jiffy/kick stand. It took 4oz to fill it to just a hair under full hot on the jiffy/kick stand side of the dipstick. If I hadn't of been so **** retentive about the 1st oil change, I'm not sure I'd have had to use an extra 4oz.
Quik speaks the truth. I'm not a fan of synthetic oil in air-cooled engines; they tend to burn more oil.
I run Formula+ in the primary and trans, and Kendall GT-1 dino oil in the engine. Works great for me.
Neutral was stiff when my bike was new, but loosened up nicely over time. You'll get there.
I have never had an issue of burning synthetic oil. Ive never talked to anybody that has that issue. My indy has never said, "It tends to burn synthetic oil, use dino". Synthetic oil flash point is higher then dino oil. So, wouldnt dino burn first?? Hell, what do I know
Yes this bike is HORRIBLE for finding neutral compared to my 2001 road king special.
I run dino oil in all my vehicle(truck/boat/dirtbikes/mowers etc) but with this bike I figured full synthetic for the amount of heat they throw and now I run with my wife on this bike.
Just annoyed the dealer again ****ed
I had the same problem with my Street Glide SP and now my Tri Glide. I read somewhere its the clutch switch, it builds up grime or dirt! Try snapping clutch lever close a couple of times, see if it works next time!
I had the same problem with my Street Glide SP and now my Tri Glide. I read somewhere its the clutch switch, it builds up grime or dirt! Try snapping clutch lever close a couple of times, see if it works next time!
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