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I live in Vegas, and it's really dry here. My SGS is only 3 years old with 47k miles. HD's recommendations for brake fluid flush don't apply to those of us that live in the desert southwest.
I flushed them today, and my Centurion Super Pro is scheduled to arrive tomorrow so I'll purge the ABS module and flush again. Once again I'm reminded that I'm not as smart as I think I am. LOL!!
Seems to me that if there is enough moisture for even sagebrush to grow, there's enough moisture to screw with your brake fluid. Worth changing anyway, just for peace of mind. But, I've been wrong. before.
I live in Vegas, and it's really dry here. My SGS is only 3 years old with 47k miles. HD's recommendations for brake fluid flush don't apply to those of us that live in the desert southwest.
I flushed them today, and my Centurion Super Pro is scheduled to arrive tomorrow so I'll purge the ABS module and flush again. Once again I'm reminded that I'm not as smart as I think I am. LOL!!
What made you choose the Centurion over the Diag4Bike? Just curious. I need to get this over with, and buy one! I am trying to figure out if the CSP has the same ability to program the stereo as the D4B
What made you choose the Centurion over the Diag4Bike? Just curious. I need to get this over with, and buy one! I am trying to figure out if the CSP has the same ability to program the stereo as the D4B
I have 2 personal bikes to maintain, and I also work on several other bikes that belong to friends. I called TechnoResearch to confirm that there are no limitations on the number of bikes that I can use it on. There isn't. And yes, you can program the stereo with this.
Keep in mind the brake system is sealed. The system works since there is a split on the side of the gasket that allows air to get to the top bellow.
However, it's real easy to use a manual vacuum pump to pull out and replace master cup at each caliper to draw down cup a couple times at each cylinder. Be sure to level bar master cylinder.
And cap needs to be up slightly. Go slow and keep vacuum low. It's easy to pull air from back side of master pressure lip seals. Pressure seals them only one way.
No more then in the ABS matters little and you can fire it carefully in a straight line in the grass after a change.
Do it ever two years.
It takes a while but you can even do both at the same time with gravity. . Just don't let cups get too low and always do cup first.
Lever and pedal in non braking position allows system to be open to cup. Don't pull or push. That cuts off cup reservoir.
Never ever use a used master cylinder to pump it out with the caliper open. You will severely damage master cylinder that may not show a problem for months.
Doesn't hurt a new one. .
There's a YouTube on how to check for moisture with your ohm meter. That's what the gages do, so you don't need it.
Everyone needs a AC/DC OHM meter .
Last edited by Jackie Paper; May 25, 2022 at 09:22 AM.
Most motorcycle manufacturers recommend the brake fluid be flushed every 2 years.
Most brake fluid (except silicone DOT5 which is NOT interchangeable with other brake fluids, never mix the two!) is hygroscopic, meaning it absorbs water.
Contrary to popular belief the brake system is not 100% sealed
As the fluid absorbs water a couple of things happen, first is the boiling point drops. We can get into a discussion of how you can't compress a liquid but you can compress a gas and how that causes your brakes to weaken/fail under extreme conditions, and secondly is the inside of your calipers (housing, pucks) can corrode leading to the seals not being able to contain the fluid.
To go even further, many ( most) bike manufacturers have a replacement interval for the rubber brake hoses.... they get weak over time and no longer resist expansion as the system is pressurized.
Bleeding the brakes also gets the crud from the system that settles in the calipers flushed out.
Keep in mind the brake system is sealed. The system works since there is a split on the side of the gasket that allows air to get to the top bellow.
However, it's real easy to use a manual vacuum pump to pull out and replace master cup at each caliper to draw down cup a couple times at each cylinder. Be sure to level bar master cylinder. And cap needs to be up slightly.
No more then in the ABS matters little and you can fire it carefully in a straight line in the grass after a change.
Do it ever two years.
It takes a while but you can even do both at the same time with gravity. . Just don't let cups get too low and always do cup first. Lever and pedal in non braking position allows system to be open to cup. Don't pull or push. That cuts off cup reservoir.
Never ever use a used master to pump it out with the caliper open. You will severely damage master cylinder that may not show a problem for months.
I flushed both front and rear with a Mighty Vac before I could finish 1 beer.
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Brake Fluid Moisture
