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Replaced my fuel filter

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Old Jul 23, 2022 | 04:04 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by 702
You don't need that tool, I used a long punch I have for knocking out pinion bearing races in differentials - worked fine both on and off.

Filter is 61011-04A
Strainer is 75254-04A
Top plate gasket is 61402-08

I was skeptical given the 100,000 mile service recommendation, but they were right. Mine was nasty too. Bike pulls harder, even in 6th gear at 75 mph.

Thanks @PoCoBob for the heads up.
Thank you, sir! Yeah, 100K is too far, I have already had a couple of nasty tanks of fuel from a couple stations off the beaten path. Last one was out in the middle of Nevada!

 
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Old Jul 23, 2022 | 09:41 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by NorthWestern
Thank you, sir! Yeah, 100K is too far, I have already had a couple of nasty tanks of fuel from a couple stations off the beaten path. Last one was out in the middle of Nevada!
And that filter is pretty small, those pics make it look a lot bigger than it is.
 
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Old Jul 24, 2022 | 06:52 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Cosmic Razorback
Dang, that Rhode Island gas is nasty!

great thread, I changed mine at 44k the filter was black but it didn’t look too bad. The condition of the filter itself look brand new. It didn’t look beat up like you guys. I’m hoping it might do something.
 
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Old Jul 24, 2022 | 07:15 PM
  #34  
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Had a quick look at most comments in this thread...Maybe I missed it,,,
But ,,, Isn't it a good idea to start bike,,, then pull fuel pump fuse,,, let bike stop.... turn off ignition..... Then start disassembling to replace fuel filter ???? So as pressure in fuel lines is not present ??? .... Or have things changed ???

 
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Old Jul 24, 2022 | 07:32 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by markwolula
Had a quick look at most comments in this thread...Maybe I missed it,,,
But ,,, Isn't it a good idea to start bike,,, then pull fuel pump fuse,,, let bike stop.... turn off ignition..... Then start disassembling to replace fuel filter ???? So as pressure in fuel lines is not present ??? .... Or have things changed ???
I rode my bike into my shop, pulled main fuse, tore it apart and put it back together, then rode it home and I didn't die.
 

Last edited by 702; Jul 24, 2022 at 07:45 PM.
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Old Jul 24, 2022 | 08:22 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by markwolula
Had a quick look at most comments in this thread...Maybe I missed it,,,
But ,,, Isn't it a good idea to start bike,,, then pull fuel pump fuse,,, let bike stop.... turn off ignition..... Then start disassembling to replace fuel filter ???? So as pressure in fuel lines is not present ??? .... Or have things changed ???
My bike had sat for about a week before I did this. I disconnected the wiring to the pump and tried to start it but it never started. I don't know how long the pressure stays in the lines before it bleeds off.
 
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Old Jul 25, 2022 | 12:04 AM
  #37  
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The Manual did not state any of that. It just says to release the pressure by removing the gas cap.


it also says to fully drain the tank which I didn’t do.

it’s a very simple procedure.
 
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Old Jul 27, 2022 | 01:22 PM
  #38  
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Took it out and I’m not sure if it’s all in my head but it does ride better when in the throttle. So I would say do this every 30k or so.

I haven’t tested it yet when the bike gets hot. That is usually when it feels like the fuel is getting cut off at low speeds
 
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Old Jul 28, 2022 | 09:49 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by markwolula
Had a quick look at most comments in this thread...Maybe I missed it,,,
But ,,, Isn't it a good idea to start bike,,, then pull fuel pump fuse,,, let bike stop.... turn off ignition..... Then start disassembling to replace fuel filter ???? So as pressure in fuel lines is not present ??? .... Or have things changed ???
You just need to disconnect the plug under the seat that goes to the fuel pump, crank the engine a couple revolutions and that will remove residual pressure, no need to pull the main fuse.
 
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Old Aug 3, 2022 | 09:06 PM
  #40  
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Ok so charging the filter did remedy the fuel cutting issue during low speeds.

I recommend doing this every 30k
 
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