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I will give these a shot and see what I can find out. The original stator was definitely burnt up, and I had to buy a new battery when I first got it 5 months ago, so figured Id warranty it for free just for fun to rule that out.
I lost 3 stators within 15,000 miles on my 2000 Road Glide. Single phase HD systems from that era are junk.
I went aftermarket 3 Phase Compufire for their complete new system and that unit was still charging strong 13 years (at 170,000 miles,) later.
(Cycle Electric is another good option. No more mixing and matching.)
I lost 3 stators within 15,000 miles on my 2000 Road Glide. Single phase HD systems from that era are junk.
I went aftermarket 3 Phase Compufire for their complete new system and that unit was still charging strong 13 years (at 170,000 miles,) later.
(Cycle Electric is another good option. No more mixing and matching.)
I've read on the 3-phase stuff and definitely seems like thats the better option, but I didnt get that far into it all before I had ordered my parts. Was hoping I could deal with the 2-phase for the rest of this summer and get back on the road. Then most likely sell and upgrade to something newer come spring time. I havent even put 100 miles on the new batt, stator, or regulator
I'd check voltage at battery, and see what you have before starting the bike, and then with the bike running and rev it a bit (2500-3000rpm) and see if you're getting 13+ volts... using a voltmeter.
If you are... then find what's draining your system.
If not, if you're not getting anything from the regulator, I'd take off the DC out connector off the regulator and check the regulator there to see if I am getting anything out of the regulator when the bikes running... If I am, then I'm going to be checking wiring between the regulator and the battery. If I'm not, getting anything at that DC side of the regulator, then pull the A/C connector and test for A/C coming from the stator... If I am getting A/C in from the stator, but no DC out of the regulator... looks like I'm replacing the regulator... again.
If there's nothing or very little coming from the stator... crap.....
Here's from a 2001 Electrical Diagnostic Manual, should be the same as yours, I think.
Good catch Stiggy, forgot about the old stators being single phase
FWIW, had the exact same issue on a '01, with the connector from the stator not "locking" on the regulator (broken)... and "popped"/shorted a brand new regulator.
Good catch Stiggy, forgot about the old stators being single phase
FWIW, had the exact same issue on a '01, with the connector from the stator not "locking" on the regulator (broken)... and "popped"/shorted a brand new regulator.[/QUOTE]
This sounds a lot like what happened to me, I will be going to get me a new voltmeter and going to do some tests on it this evening to see what I can find out, thanks for the help thus far everyone!
i would put another regulator on it i think... go with a harley oem... thats just me
For years Harleys biggest failure was ;probably volt regs. Cycle elecetric has a good repuation.
Originally Posted by levicoffey52
the regulator was a drag specialties, I cant remember the exact brand of the stator, I purchased it on Dennis Kirk so Id imagine its not terrible quality.
I actually got a Cycle electric packaged as a drag once. I would save manual, such as it is when ever changing stuff out. Just for record keeping.
Originally Posted by Stiggy
I lost 3 stators within 15,000 miles on my 2000 Road Glide. Single phase HD systems from that era are junk.
I went aftermarket 3 Phase Compufire for their complete new system and that unit was still charging strong 13 years (at 170,000 miles,) later.
(Cycle Electric is another good option. No more mixing and matching.)
?? I just this winter replaced my 01's stator with 87k on it and still goiong. I would just stick with the 2 wire, instead of changing evrerything out.
Sounds like it is inermittent probably due to vibrations or heat. But I would try to go through the checks at home. easist thing to start with is DC volts at battery, should be 14.4 when revved up. If you are seeing 16 it does sound like volt reg. Loose wries at panel volt meter would not cause high votlages. The stock meter might not be the best. But I if it is spiking, I would be concerned.
Make sure the volt reg wires are tight. Make sure it is tight Harleys dump current to the frame, which is a week point,. CE claims there is betters because when not called for it opens up.
Regardless of anything else in the system, that volt reg should not allow 16 volts through. I'd like to see that 16 with a better meter though,
I never mix brands on stators & regulators
I think they designed as a system. In my experience if I have decide its the regulator on an oem bike, I put hd regulator. If I have to go into stator, I replace everything with Cycle electric kit.
First is follow the links Rizzo posted.
Check voltage, resistance and OHMs at the stator plug.
If anything is wrong with these readings it's the stator.
Then check your ground AT THE VOLTAGE REGULATOR,
and output voltage at the battery.
At 1200 RPM's it should read 13.? to 14.5.
If not it's the regulator.
Make sure the stator to regulator plug is connected good.
I never mix brands on stators & regulators
I think they designed as a system. In my experience if I have decide its the regulator on an oem bike, I put hd regulator. If I have to go into stator, I replace everything with Cycle electric kit.
Lots of folks replace stock regulators with CE and don't replace the system. I replaced mine about 40k miles ago. I read the specs, and see if it requires anything else be changed.
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