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1999 Ultra classic Charging Issue

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Old Aug 29, 2022 | 10:45 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Ssitruc
Stators don't put out "too much voltage", they're just windings spinning in a magnetic field (or vice versa) that create a certain amount of A/C current (per 1000 RPMs), based on the size of wire and number of turns in the windings... the "magic" is done in the regulator, with the rectifier changing the A/C to DC and a diode limiting the output to a certain level and sending the excess to ground. When stators "go bad" its a break down in that generation of, or conducting, the current. A short in a winding, a bad connection, worn parts, etc that all lead to less or no output. It is possible that this doesn't show up until everything is hot, in your case because the issue showed up after the bike got hot (running temperature) I'd test everything when is was hot. Even if I had to stop testing and go ride it to get it back up to temperature.

How did you determine voltage was dropping off? Was it not starting? When the bike was cold again, was the "issue" fixed?
First, because of my bad luck with regulators/alternators/diodes, I never plug/unplug the regulator's connectors until I have removed the "main breaker" and dropped all power from those connectors... do you have to, probably not, but it doesn't take much to pop a diode... better safe than sorry.

Second, are you using a quality regulator, rated for your bikes system... sometimes things are cheap (Amazon $75 regulators for instance) for a reason. Be sure all connections (and grounds) are tight and clean.

Third, just because when it gets hot it stops putting out current doesn't mean its the regulator... It could be that you have an issue with the stator when it is hot that then shows up (stops/reduces the creating of current), but when it cools it clears itself (unusual, but it can happen). So I would test your stator connector for its output as soon as you can when you come in from riding and you think its messed up. As soon as you get it in from riding, and the "voltage has dropped off", pull the main breaker, pull the DC connector on the regulator, replace breaker and start the bike, and check the regulator's output at the regulator. If it is not good, shut the bike off and pull the breaker again, then pull the stator's connector off the regulator, put the breaker in and start the bike, and check the A/C output of the stator. The goal is to keep the bike hot while testing and see what you find.

Just the fact that you put a new regulator on it, and all was good in the garage, then you went riding and it went down hill, would make me want to test it while it was at riding temperature... to see if something was breaking down when it got hot. I also rigged up a way to hook my multimeter to my battery, and put the seat back on, and go ride my bike (multimeter in a jacket pocket)... so I could compare what my multimeter was saying -vs- what the volt meter on the bike was showing... and trust the multimeter over the volt gauge on the dash.
One regulators was a Harley Davidson regulator, the other was a drag specialties regulator, cost me over $180 at our local shop. I don’t order any parts off Amazon/ebay or any of that, electrical stuff especially. I ordered the stator off of Dennis Kirk for around $115, unless I’ve shorted it somehow already, I don’t see why there would be a problem there. I had the bike idling for over 15 minutes before taking off after putting my original HD regulator back on it and no voltage drop at all, rode probably 30-40 miles that evening with no issues. Then another 75 or so miles the next day until I was running 80 mph down the interstate and then seen the voltage gauge on the bike drop back down to 10 volts. It previously stayed at 12 volts the entire time unless accelerating harder then it would go up to 13-14 volts.
 
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Old Aug 29, 2022 | 11:13 AM
  #32  
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https://www.lowbrowcustoms.com/produ...and-flt-models
 
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Old Aug 29, 2022 | 12:24 PM
  #33  
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if I can’t get the 2 phase stuff working before this riding season is over, I will most likely go ahead and dish the money out for a 3 phase system this winter, but with the work I just did I really want to try to get it going with what I have right now.
 
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Old Aug 29, 2022 | 12:30 PM
  #34  
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It would be nice to know what the problem is. Maybe replacing all will encapsulate it,but it hasn't yet.

2 wire vs 3 has nothing to do with your issue. I'd argue a waste of money unless using lots of heated gear or big *** stereo.

You could replace all that, and still have issue
 
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Old Aug 29, 2022 | 12:59 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by levicoffey52
One regulators was a Harley Davidson regulator, the other was a drag specialties regulator, cost me over $180 at our local shop. I don’t order any parts off Amazon/ebay or any of that, electrical stuff especially. I ordered the stator off of Dennis Kirk for around $115, unless I’ve shorted it somehow already, I don’t see why there would be a problem there. I had the bike idling for over 15 minutes before taking off after putting my original HD regulator back on it and no voltage drop at all, rode probably 30-40 miles that evening with no issues. Then another 75 or so miles the next day until I was running 80 mph down the interstate and then seen the voltage gauge on the bike drop back down to 10 volts. It previously stayed at 12 volts the entire time unless accelerating harder then it would go up to 13-14 volts.
Just to be clear, why did you replace all the stuff to begin with (battery, stator, regulator, connector)?

Then you swapped out the HD factory stuff with the Drag Specialties regulator & Dennis Kirk stator, then had the issue with connection and messed with the stator's wires but voltage stayed down, then riding it back home it comes back up to 13-14 volts... next day it appears ok at first with volts gauge showing 13-14 v, but then voltage spikes to 16v and then drops and stays down around 10v (from your original post), right? (all of this could have started from a connection issue, btw)

Then after that you put the original HD regulator back on the bike? Then let the bike idle for 15 minutes, ride a half hour and all seems good... next day take it out again and all is good for an hour or so, then at 80mph voltage drops to 10vdc, right? But prior to that the volt meter on the dash was showing 12v, unless you were getting on it, then it would be 13-14v... right?

IF all that is correct, then I hate to say it but you're right back where you began. I am assuming originally you had a battery/charging problem in the first place, so you just replaced everything... without actually trouble shooting (testing) each of the parts, to figure out exactly which one(s) was the actual source of the problem, maybe?

If so, what if it was a faulty regulator (the HD one) to begin with? Then you switched out all the OEM stuff with your "new" stuff... and that connection/wire issue you were having "popped" your new regulator... so you then unknowingly put the original faulty (the HD one) regulator back on the bike.

Using a multimeter do the tests (don't trust the volt gauge on the dash for testing), to verify specifically what the faulty part(s) is. Do not plug/unplug the connectors on the regulator with them hot, pull the main breaker when doing that (just to eliminate the possibility). Otherwise you're just throwing parts at it, which in your case should have fixed the issue (if the regulator's ground wire is tight and clean and your connectors are also)... but then you had the connection problem/loose wire after putting it all in, which adds a "possibility".
 

Last edited by Ssitruc; Aug 29, 2022 at 01:01 PM.
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Old Aug 29, 2022 | 04:28 PM
  #36  
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Have you checked to see if the hot wire all the way back to the breaker is not grounding out?

when the gauge reads 10 volts most likely it is not charging at all, at that point its just reading the battery while running off it. My MM bike saprised on how long it ran on just the battery, it got to where the blinkers wouldn't work but the ecm was still keeping the engine alive.
 
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Old Aug 29, 2022 | 04:56 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Rounders
It would be nice to know what the problem is. Maybe replacing all will encapsulate it,but it hasn't yet.

2 wire vs 3 has nothing to do with your issue. I'd argue a waste of money unless using lots of heated gear or big *** stereo.

You could replace all that, and still have issue
I understand, that’s why I’m trying to get the system I have now working.
 
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Old Aug 29, 2022 | 05:45 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Ssitruc
Just to be clear, why did you replace all the stuff to begin with (battery, stator, regulator, connector)?

Then you swapped out the HD factory stuff with the Drag Specialties regulator & Dennis Kirk stator, then had the issue with connection and messed with the stator's wires but voltage stayed down, then riding it back home it comes back up to 13-14 volts... next day it appears ok at first with volts gauge showing 13-14 v, but then voltage spikes to 16v and then drops and stays down around 10v (from your original post), right? (all of this could have started from a connection issue, btw)

Then after that you put the original HD regulator back on the bike? Then let the bike idle for 15 minutes, ride a half hour and all seems good... next day take it out again and all is good for an hour or so, then at 80mph voltage drops to 10vdc, right? But prior to that the volt meter on the dash was showing 12v, unless you were getting on it, then it would be 13-14v... right?

IF all that is correct, then I hate to say it but you're right back where you began. I am assuming originally you had a battery/charging problem in the first place, so you just replaced everything... without actually trouble shooting (testing) each of the parts, to figure out exactly which one(s) was the actual source of the problem, maybe?

If so, what if it was a faulty regulator (the HD one) to begin with? Then you switched out all the OEM stuff with your "new" stuff... and that connection/wire issue you were having "popped" your new regulator... so you then unknowingly put the original faulty (the HD one) regulator back on the bike.

Using a multimeter do the tests (don't trust the volt gauge on the dash for testing), to verify specifically what the faulty part(s) is. Do not plug/unplug the connectors on the regulator with them hot, pull the main breaker when doing that (just to eliminate the possibility). Otherwise you're just throwing parts at it, which in your case should have fixed the issue (if the regulator's ground wire is tight and clean and your connectors are also)... but then you had the connection problem/loose wire after putting it all in, which adds a "possibility".

Okay. I’ll start from the very beginning and be as clear as I can. I respond a lot while at work so I try to make it quick and probably leading to confusion. I bought this bike this year in early march. This bike sat from late 2019 until now covered up in a heated barn. The battery that was in it was toast, I went and bought a brand new Napa legend battery for it, drained the fuel put fresh gas in it and fired it up, all was good I rode it for roughly two months with not a single issue. One day I go to pick the bike up from my parents and ride it back to our apartment 40 minutes away. I got half way there and my speakers cut out. I stopped and turned the bike off and go to start it again. Nothing but a slight click and had to have my girlfriends dad come pull me home. He tried jumping me but bike didn’t make it a quarter mile before dying. Knowing I had just replaced the battery, I assumed it was the stator. But I got to reading some forums and decided that it sounded like my regulator was the issue and it was a lot easier of a job than tearing into the stator. So I went to the local shop and bought a drag specialties regulator and installed it. Didn’t have any change. So now I’m positive the stator is the issue. I order a stator, all fluid change kits, and primary gaskets. I tear the bike apart and put the new stator in. (At this point the bike has been sitting for 2 months since issue occurred). The new stator did not come with a connector to go to the regulator, so I removed the connector from the original stator but broke the tabs that hold the wires into the connector. I stuck the wires in the connector put some tack and seal around the wires to hold them in place. Go to start the bike and the battery was dead. I gave it a jump and it fired up, volt gauge on the dash is reading 12-14 volts. I rode the 40 minutes home from my parents to our apartment with no issue or voltage drop on the dash at all. My girlfriend and I go to ride into town that night to get something for dinner and as soon as we get into town, about 20 minute ride, I see the volt gauge on the dash suddenly drop to 10 volts. I pull into a parking lot, fiddle with the wires going into the connector assuming that is my issue. No change while sitting there so I said screw it we’re riding it back home. We got not even 5 minutes down the road and the volts jump back up to 12-14 volts. So I’m like alright maybe it just took a couple minutes to get the right reading. We turn back around, go back into town and eat. We ride the 20 minutes back home and all was good. I get up to go to work the next morning and get less than 10 minutes down the road and voltage spiked to 16 volts and then dropped to 10. I rode it the rest of the way to work because my parents live close by and knew I’d take it there afterwards. I ride to my parents after work and volts are still sitting at 10. I had a warranty on the battery so I warrantied out for a new one just for the hell of it, still no change. So I then come on here and made a post, and one guy said he had a problem with his connector also and ended up causing his regulator to go bad. So at that point I’m thinking for sure my original Harley Davidson regulator was never bad. I go there that evening throw the old regulator on and bike fires up, volts are reading 12-14 and all seems well. We rode roughly 30-40 miles that evening with no issues. We get up the next day and go for a ride. Rode for roughly an hour and a half and stopped to get a snack and some drinks before deciding we were gonna ride up to Indianapolis. We jumped on the interstate running 80-85 mph for a good 15 minutes and all of a sudden I see my gauge start to slowly drop to 10 volts. We get off the interstate, ride back to our apartment, and here I am, unsure what my problem could be. I will do the tests with an actual voltmeter asap, just giving the info I have right now.
 
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Old Aug 29, 2022 | 05:48 PM
  #39  
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LIne breaks. I am not going to read that solid block of texts
 
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Old Aug 29, 2022 | 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by xcbullet
Have you checked to see if the hot wire all the way back to the breaker is not grounding out?

when the gauge reads 10 volts most likely it is not charging at all, at that point its just reading the battery while running off it. My MM bike saprised on how long it ran on just the battery, it got to where the blinkers wouldn't work but the ecm was still keeping the engine alive.
That’s what I feel like, when it drops to 10 I’m not getting any charging. I’ve checked over the wire that leads to the breaker and neither regulators looked to be burnt or broken in any spots.
 
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