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I have a 1999 ultra classic fuel injected. Just put new battery, stator, regulator, and stator to regulator connector on it and still am only getting 10 volts on the volt gauge. After I first got the new parts on I took it for a ride and was showing 13-14 volts on the gauge, gauge dropped to around 10-11 so I pulled over and messed with the stator wires going into the connector because I hadnt replaced the connector yet (I broke the little tabs that hold the stator wires into the connector when removing them and just stuck them in the plug).
Rode about a quarter mile down the road and the volts came back up to 13-14. Next morning all seems fine then the gauges pegs to 16 for a couple seconds then dropped to 10 so I rode it home and put it up. I thought for sure it was just the connector so I replaced that with no change. Still am sitting around 10 volts. Kinda stumped here and not sure what else it could be. Any thoughts?
Had an issue with that connector on the regulator, the one from the stator, like you're describing, it screwed up a new regulator. Can you test your AC in from the stator to be sure its still good, then check that your regulator is letting it charge the battery, that your actually getting DC out of the regulator... using a volt meter not the gauge on the dash? So you'll know if something "shorted".
Is the battery going dead, meaning the gauge on the dash is correct? Sounds dumb, but I had put a new battery in my truck last year, for the first month or so the gauge moved all over the place... I had never noticed it moving so much. Took off to Dallas in it after having the new battery in there a week... got about 90 miles from home and it looked like, according to the gauge it was discharging... then in a little while it was "normal" again. Long story short, after about a month the gauge "calmed down" (???) and acted normal again, and it has been the same ever since... and not once did I have a problem starting or anything else. Have no idea why the gauge got so tweaky...
Follow the 2 stickys in the electrical section
to isolate the issue.
What brand parts did you use?
the regulator was a drag specialties, I cant remember the exact brand of the stator, I purchased it on Dennis Kirk so Id imagine its not terrible quality.
Had an issue with that connector on the regulator, the one from the stator, like you're describing, it screwed up a new regulator. Can you test your AC in from the stator to be sure its still good, then check that your regulator is letting it charge the battery, that your actually getting DC out of the regulator... using a volt meter not the gauge on the dash? So you'll know if something "shorted".
Is the battery going dead, meaning the gauge on the dash is correct? Sounds dumb, but I had put a new battery in my truck last year, for the first month or so the gauge moved all over the place... I had never noticed it moving so much. Took off to Dallas in it after having the new battery in there a week... got about 90 miles from home and it looked like, according to the gauge it was discharging... then in a little while it was "normal" again. Long story short, after about a month the gauge "calmed down" (???) and acted normal again, and it has been the same ever since... and not once did I have a problem starting or anything else. Have no idea why the gauge got so tweaky...
I will have to test them with a volt meter and get back with you on that. The battery does eventually go dead to where itll still run but wont have enough juice to start unless I jump. I warrantied out the first battery I bought to rule that out of the equation.
Any advice on doing the tests with a voltmeter?
The connection at the case from the stator is a weak point. I made a hard connection from the stator leads thru the case.
i dont believe I have a connector at the case, mine had the the wires coming right off the stator with a rubber seal around them that popped into the hole in the case. The connector I replaced is at the end of the stator wires leading up and plugging into the voltage regulator. I would attach a pic if I was around the bike at the moment.
I will have to test them with a volt meter and get back with you on that. The battery does eventually go dead to where itll still run but wont have enough juice to start unless I jump. I warrantied out the first battery I bought to rule that out of the equation.
Any advice on doing the tests with a voltmeter?
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1999 Ultra classic Charging Issue
