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My riding season has been pretty much **** here. Started off with a broken hand (meh, I meditate now, let's leave it there), then right into a blown head gasket. Got the head gasket fixed in time for the rain to finally start up here. Now I am throwing throttle codes. P2138 and P1510. I spoke to the indy that did the head gasket and he doesn't believe anything he did, would cause that. I cleaned the plug and connector for the throttle body with compressed air and dielectric grease. I was able to clear the codes for a few days, but they are back again.
I purchased the bike used, with 16" apes on it. I am now tired of the bars and wanting a switch. These codes may have sped the process up. My question is, if I was to change the bars out (going with 10" kickback Kraus risers and MX style bars), can I just get all new wiring and not have to worry about those codes anymore? I am assuming there is a broken or frayed wire somewhere.
Bonus points if you can link a cable kit for the appropriate length. Or even some pre-wired MX bars and risers.
I'm assuming you're talking about the 2017 Road King in your sig? The lines are +2" because of the bars. I really hope I didn't waste my time finding things for the wrong bike. As far as your codes, fixing the issue will clear them.
I'm assuming you're talking about the 2017 Road King in your sig? The lines are +2" because of the bars. I really hope I didn't waste my time finding things for the wrong bike. As far as your codes, fixing the issue will clear them.
It is the 2017 RKS. I mustve deleted that part. Instead of finding the broken wire (assumption) I wanted to change the throttle cable and everything. Start over with all new throttle/brake/clutch wiring. That way, I dont have to find the issue. Does that make sense? Or am I totally in the fuggin weeds here??
It is the 2017 RKS. I mustve deleted that part. Instead of finding the broken wire (assumption) I wanted to change the throttle cable and everything. Start over with all new throttle/brake/clutch wiring. That way, I dont have to find the issue. Does that make sense? Or am I totally in the fuggin weeds here??
Just an FYI...your throttle is not cable operated. It's electronic "fly-by-wire" (see breakdown below). Your codes seem to be TGS (twist grip sensor) related.
P2138: TGS Correlation Error & P1510: EFI Performance Mode Limited. The TGS errors are a common issue when changing bars.
It would be my guess , that it's the little green connector inside the bar that's causing your issue . I've done a few bar set ups and I always cut / straight solder all those wires to prevent error codes from coming up , and they usually do .
When you change out the bars , you can still use the original tgs , just save yourself the hassle and get rid of the green clip , cut and splice each wire individually , solder and double shrink tube them . You don't have to worry about staggering the solder joints , the wires are thin enough not to cause a problem . When your done , use some electrical tape and wrap them all up , this will prevent them from vibrating and causing any breaks in the future .
Just an FYI...your throttle is not cable operated. It's electronic "fly-by-wire" (see breakdown below). Your codes seem to be TGS (twist grip sensor) related.
P2138: TGS Correlation Error & P1510: EFI Performance Mode Limited. The TGS errors are a common issue when changing bars.
Fly-by-wire. Right. I remember that. Thank you for your cutout as well. That kind of reaffirms what I am thinking. I can replace the whole shebang and be done with it.
Originally Posted by MyFavRk
It would be my guess , that it's the little green connector inside the bar that's causing your issue . I've done a few bar set ups and I always cut / straight solder all those wires to prevent error codes from coming up , and they usually do .
When you change out the bars , you can still use the original tgs , just save yourself the hassle and get rid of the green clip , cut and splice each wire individually , solder and double shrink tube them . You don't have to worry about staggering the solder joints , the wires are thin enough not to cause a problem . When your done , use some electrical tape and wrap them all up , this will prevent them from vibrating and causing any breaks in the future .
I have now been reading about this green clip. I will certainly inspect mine when i take it apart. But I wonder if I am better served buying the whole assembly again and starting anew. Who knows what they have done to this existing harness. Nonetheless, certainly something to consider for the future. Thank you.
It may be tempting to start fresh with all new parts, but you will never know if you really found the problem.
I spent a week diagnosing a no start condition on my corvette years ago.....replaced the battery terminals and neutral safety switch, was in the process of digging the steering column apart when I noticed the floor mat was wadded up under the clutch and not letting me depress it fully.....
I suggest you follow a factory trouble shooting flowchart. Ive got a digital 17 manual, Ill take a look tomorrow.
It would be my guess , that it's the little green connector inside the bar that's causing your issue . I've done a few bar set ups and I always cut / straight solder all those wires to prevent error codes from coming up , and they usually do .
Originally Posted by jlb2782
I have now been reading about this green clip. I will certainly inspect mine when i take it apart. But I wonder if I am better served buying the whole assembly again and starting anew. Who knows what they have done to this existing harness. Nonetheless, certainly something to consider for the future. Thank you.
I could be wrong but I think the green connector that has had issues in the past (if not careful) is not on your 2017. I believe it was only used to 2013...not Rushmore (2014+).
I know I had it on my 2012 when I changed bars (couple of times) and luckily never had an issue with it. I don't recall the "green" connector on my 2020 when I changed bars.
My question is, if I was to change the bars out (going with 10" kickback Kraus risers and MX style bars), can I just get all new wiring and not have to worry about those codes anymore? I am assuming there is a broken or frayed wire somewhere.
Bonus points if you can link a cable kit for the appropriate length. Or even some pre-wired MX bars and risers.
On CanBus bikes, all the wires in the handlebars have connectors that can be fed through the bars.... pre-CanBus bikes had larger connectors that needed to be de-pinned and re-pinned when doing bar changes...
I use NAMZ wire harnesses for handlebar changes. You can get a NMAZ harness that will fit up to 20" bars. It will plug into the main harness connectors at the frame and/or fairing, then also connect to the handlebar switchpaks and throttle grip.
I found the Namz products to be very high quality. I would/will use them again if the need arises..
I also have a good friend who uses Hill Country Custom Cycles as suggested by NoRegerts in his post. My friend gets their completely pre-wired handlebar kits and loves them. He's used them a couple times
Last edited by hattitude; Sep 20, 2022 at 09:41 AM.
On CanBus bikes, all the wires in the handlebars have connectors that can be fed through the bars.... pre-CanBus bikes had larger connectors that needed to be de-pinned and re-pinned when doing bar changes...
I use NAMZ wire harnesses for handlebar changes. You can get a NMAZ harness that will fit up to 20" bars. It will plug into the main harness connectors at the frame and/or fairing, then also connect to the handlebar switchpaks and throttle grip.
I found the Namz products to be very high quality. I would/will use them again if the need arises..
I also have a good friend who uses Hill Country Custom Cycles as suggested by NoRegerts in his post. My friend gets their completely pre-wired handlebar kits and loves them. He's used them a couple times
Great. Thanks for the links. I will definitely be checking those out. Really like that Hill Country Customs has bars that are prewired. But they don't have the bars I am looking for.
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Changing bars-starting from scratch
