I saw a video of the {A] fuel sending unit issue. I had just recently had mine 1/2 way out to adjust the float arm which I suspected was out of alignment and stopping as the fuel got down to 1/4 tank full and that was bone dry. That small {bend} adjustment in the float arm now seems to allow the float to drop all the way and register almost at empty before being near OUT-O-GAS . I think I'll wait and work on tuner adjustments first before pulling that again. That reason being the bike had been starting good and then after the cam chest up grade and before the tuner was decided on and arrived, It fired and ran {REAL FAST] 1st time with the orig. ECM and until the tuner was installed.

I've have found a wee bit of time to do a few warm ups and setting adjustments. !. I guess that when I had asked Zipper's about the decel gizmo shipping I wound up with Zippers MAP with settings showing Decel Fuel Cut was enabled and values for the gas to cut out at lower and the hi range rpms.. Since my homemade gizmo worked for the decel pops, I disabled the settings decel cut value from {1} {ON} to {0}{OFF} not to come on. 2. Adjusted the initial fuel pulse up from 151% to 160% .3. Cranking fuel value up from 8.0 msec to 10msec. 4. changed plugs because they had signs of running rich, black and wet mostly ft. cylinder and lesser but rear as well. That had transpired over several weeks while finishing up the mods and trying to dial out my 2 issues

Now I have had a 1x cold start and 1- 2x cold starts, I may be getting closer. Have just recently found and been using the 93 proof nonethenol gas and added in some Techron. with hopes of cleaning out any if at all build up in the injector system and top end.

As the weather starts clearing in a day or so and I get things done for my Gal. I'll be putting some miles on by Thurs and Fri. and see how those changes worked out. If I missed anything or need to do anymore adjustments you are aware of give me a heads up when you can.
Thanks much .
PS: clock still running with FM reply from their system email and follow up call. 12 days now and counting.

 

Hey Max
Thanks for clarifing the concern I had re; the o2 sensor apparent use. I reckon that is a best practice to verify parts shipped are working. As far as the cold start issue I made my blind adjustments and so far the bike is starting first poke. IFP up to 160 from 151%.,CF up to 10 from 8.0msec.,I was and am still not exactly sure if low rpm timing bump would help for starting but so far so good.

I am still waiting for that reply from FM, I had sent a message Sept. 21st and a follow up made a call on the 22nd. As the "Clock ticks" I guess I was just lucky to have been shopping for the tuner when I did. TM on sale 899, so seems I saved about 100 bucks.

If I could trouble you for 1 more bit of input? I know certain bikes need an idle rpm of near 1k to properly keep the battery charged if one finds ones self "Stuck in traffic" either at a rally or otherwise. In your experience or knowledge, what might be the lowest RPM idle setting that would work to keep my battery my up during these few periods. The 2 Maps I got both came with setting of 975rpm. I'm not looking to set much lower if any but was curious what the lower range could be with out getting in to a range of output lower than necessary to maintain sufficent charge to the battery for those few times of "slow rollin". Other than lights and system needs I only have a cell phone quick charger connected, no big stereos or other hi draw equipment attached.. Right now at idle it shows 12.85ish at idle and when the throttle is turned up to 2500ish it moves up to 13.85 ish so while rolling along it seems to be in a good range?
Thanks for the input.

 

While I'd expect that the charging system should be able to handle 975 rpm I don't really know for sure since the bike is almost 20 years old. I'd expect it to be OK. I'm just guessing.. One thing I did on my EGC was to swap out the stock headlight and fogs for LED.. Voltage don't go below 14..

 

I may be wrong but I believe those Hi-test Hi-heat Halogen bulbs are what has caused 2 of my head lights to preminately "fog' the glass. I took the last one apart to try to clean. Finally broke the glass to test a theory. Muratic acid wouldn't even touch that. Seems that "Fog" is actually in the glass, not on it.
If someone were to change to LED's does the whole fixture have to be changed out or just the bulbs?
I had not even given that a thought but you are right. That is likely the largest power draw on the system.

 

I ended up changing the whole thing... There replacement H4 equivalents but I don't have any experience with them..

 

OK, I'll look in to that . Would much rather change a bulb or 3 than to have to change the whole housing and wiring?
Just found another fun thing to do. As they say "The Fun Never Ends". After the TM install I wanted to see what kind of mileage I was going to get. The closest gas-o to me with 93 proof non ethanol is 22 miles so that makes for a nice little scoot about. A couple weeks ago I filled up, rode around some and about 10 days later went out that way to fill up and check the miles against gas used. Ran the numbers and 58 mpg. Took about 3 seconds to figure something wasn't right. So,, I rode around on that tank a bit about another 10 day period and filled up again, roughly 181 miles on 3.16 gal. so again I see find 57+ mpg.

So, zeroed the trip meter and when I get home took a bit longer route but google's 22 miles did not turn into 68 miles by magic. Thinking about all that, around 1 year after getting the bike I decided I wanted the H/D speed-o/tach combo. Found it on ebay and it had about 4500 more miles showing than mine. Installed it and off I went. Several years went by and while riding with some buddy's I say, why ya'll lagging back so much. They said U was flyin, I said no way. One set his cruse control and while by him showing 60, I was showing 68 so I was a constant 8mph over. Some years later while collecting all the parts for my Mods I got the Ultima speed-o adjuster. It piggy backs along between the ECM to the VSS down on the tranny. Now in more modern times I use my cell phone directions that shows speed limit and how fast I'm going. So I made the correction to match all that up and away I go.
.
Now the tuner is installed and has a speed-o calibration in the program. I matched it up to my bike pushed the button and away I go. Speed is still showing a match to phone GPS and now lies to me about how much gas I'm using and how many miles I'm traveling at one time.
Sounds like I have too many gizmos and none of them are calibrated. I suppose that now I won't get a speeding ticket I'll just ride it a while cause my gas gauge is apparently not hooked up to all that mess and working at least close enough I won't be walking. I'll get around to clearing all that mess up when cold weather gets here. Getting a bit weary of all all work and no play
Wish me luck

 

Hey Max, I did get a little time today to look over the battery. I have an older analog amp probe but not good for DC work. I had another small CE analog tester A/C-D/C, ohms, etc. the basics. A couple weeks ago I had been working on an outside photo cell issue. Set the meter down on the edge of the covered porch and went to the shop lo look for some parts. While out there it came a short but stout little rain shower. Meter did not take well to that. I did find a dig. meter at Lowes but they had to order it in. Not expensive but covered my current needs.
Bike had been on the H/D battery tender and the bike did fire up 1x poke since I made minor setting changes in the TM settings, ran a warm up and looked at the TM monitor. volts floating around 13.6 ish, not bad but when I cut the bike off it was barely 12v. So I put the 2-4-6 amp charger on. The light showing % of chg. was around 50% I moved the amps up to 6 and eased up to 75% Then I pull out the old Sears 2 and 10 amp. charger and the 10 amp moved it on up to 100% over some few minutes.

I'd been keeping my 95 Ford F150 on another trickle charger too. So while I had the equipment out wound up doing the same process. The Ford battery finally hit 100% over around 2 hrs. That battery May of 19, Bike battery maybe just a wee bit older. Seems I'm going battery shopping soon. After the bike got a full charge I fired it up again, What a difference a 100% charge makes. After the 1st warm up the TM wanted me to send data info to TM. I went ahead and hit send after going over the mods I had done and updated all that info. In that section I included the question about where and what I might tinker with for the starting. Answered my own question with the battery charging. TM did email me re: receipt of the data and my question. A tech will contact me sometime during business hrs. WOW, TM seems to be on the ball with the communication thing, Unlike the dealer that sold it, and question sent Sept.21 and still no reply. I don't want to seem like it's the end of all things to come cause they haven't gotten back to me but I did spend 899 + S/H + tax and my feelings are as long as TM is this good, I don't really care about the dealer. But for that kind of money I would have at least expected some reply even if it was to KISS their ****.
So whats a good battery to look at for the bike?
Thanks much. .

 

Battery choices are like oil threads.. I prefer Yuasa gyz32hl in baggers. They last me 5-6 years and I rarely use a tender.. I live in a climate where I can ride year round.. Bikes (own a number) never sit more than a couple weeks and when they get ridden, the ride is more than 30 miles.

 

Yeah,, I've always used the sealed lead acid, for the few I've bought over the years. I see there are a couple variations like the AGM and more recently Lithium.

Our weather here varies per season. There are decent days in the winter to ride and have rode in rain and blowing snow, however the older I get those 25degree days are starting to falling out of favor with me. This last battery was from Auto Zone and has made it over 4 and some months. I got one from Battries Plus prior that made it less than 1 year, the previous from there made it 6 years So like life, apparently battries are as well like a box of chocolates.
I figured it might be time to get at least a good brand instead of flitting back and forth to what ever is on sale.

This mod deal has me cycle poor for the moment. So I made a jump starting rig in case I get caught out before Santa stuffs my stocking with a nice battery. My tender cord attached to the battery and lives outside the side cover and detaches with the polorized plug. I found another matching pug in the shop. Soldered it to an 8 ft. cord, shrink wrapped those and added a old pair of jumper clips to the other end. So now I can use that rig to attach to the big charger and or jump start if necessary until I get the new battery. As they say "Necessity Is The Mother of Invention"
I'll start looking at the Yuasa for the near future.
Thanks