I just had a similar problem on my 2011 Ultra. I ended up replacing both front calipers at US$238 each (ouch). I'll rebuild my original calipers and now I'll have a backup set. My problem was that I didn't realize one is supposed to clean the calipers with soap and water before pushing the pistons back in.

 

Yes, the master cylinder cover was off, and i removed a little of the fluid so it didnt overfill.

 

No codes. Thought the same thing. At first, i was thinking the ABS module took a dump.

 

have you ruled this out..if so how.
thanks

 

Just wanted to thank Dan for using the correct spelling of, "brake". Thank you!

 

I havent ruled out anything yet. Just have too much going on to get back to looking at it. Possibly this weekend unless my wife has other plans for me.

 

The most frequent ABS failure traps brake fluid between the master cylinder and the ABS unit resulting in a locked lever or pedal but no pressure to the caliper. Hydraulic lock from the master cylinder all the way to the caliper could a blocked equalization port in the MC or the master cylinder piston NOT retracting far enough to open the equalization port to relieve pressure. Did your brake lever have any free play before hitting the locked MC piston or did it seem to be normal movement to that point? With dirt on the caliper pistons, it is possible the first brake application pushed the caliper pistons hard against the brake pads and the pistons were then jammed and unable to retract when you released the lever. Since function seemed to return to normal once everything cooled off, why not remove the new pads and extend the pistons as described above and clean the pistons. As a personal technique, I lube the extended pistons, after they are clean, with a couple drops of DOT 5 brake fluid and cycle the pistons in and out until they move easily. DON'T put DOT 5 into the brake system, it is not compatible with DOT 4 or the ABS system. If using DOT 5 just to lube the pistons makes you uncomfortable, use DOT 4. Rebuilding calipers that can be made to work properly seems like a lot of extra work and money you may not need to spend. If you are prone to worry about a recurrence of the malfunction, then rebuilding will provide peace of mind.

My personal experience was somewhat similar to yours. After my first pad replacement, my gas mileage decreased considerably and I found the front brakes were dragging, but no hydraulic lock. After cleaning and lubing the caliper pistons, everything went back to normal. Each pad replacement was then done with the piston cleaning procedure and have had no further problems. I now have 108,000 miles on the bike.

 

I always clean the pistons with brake cleaner and an old tooth brush and then spray silicone spray on them before pushing them back in. Do this on autos too.

 

What year is the bike? My 2010 I bypassed the ABS and it solved all issues.

 

If you had to force the piston in "just enough" to jam the pads in then you did not open the master cylinder. You need to open the caliber bleeder just a little and let some fluid out.

The calipers should retract pretty easily with a large clamp and a wood block. Put in the new pads, and bleed the brakes.