Brake problem
Thread Starter
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 14,438
Likes: 2,421
From: Pittsburgh, Pa
Brake problem
All,
I just went and replaced my front brake pads. The calipers were a bitch at first to compress on both sides, but i got them enough to get the new pads on. The one aide i got them open enough to het the pads on and the caluper onto the rotor. The other side i had to open the bleed valve to get them to open. I took it out then out for a ride to seat the pads, the handle is now solid. The pads do not want to retract. I got it home but they were fighting against the motor the entire time. I got it into the garage byt can't even move it. I had the master cylinder cover off and the brake fluid was changed last year. Any ideas what I did wrong?
I just went and replaced my front brake pads. The calipers were a bitch at first to compress on both sides, but i got them enough to get the new pads on. The one aide i got them open enough to het the pads on and the caluper onto the rotor. The other side i had to open the bleed valve to get them to open. I took it out then out for a ride to seat the pads, the handle is now solid. The pads do not want to retract. I got it home but they were fighting against the motor the entire time. I got it into the garage byt can't even move it. I had the master cylinder cover off and the brake fluid was changed last year. Any ideas what I did wrong?
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 10,833
Likes: 6,485
From: Canada Flats
My thoughts exactly , could be a build up of crud that's causing the pistons to not retract . You could try expanding them far enough to clean the pistons with a flat shoe lace , but if they pop , you'll need to replace the seals , which wouldn't be a bad thing anyway .
I use a piece of wood , a little thinner than both pads , plus rotor , then pump the brake lever . this makes it a bit easier to clean the cylinders while the caliper is off the bike .
Also , check your pins , if there not completely smooth , replace them , then put a thin layer of brake grease on them , as well as the back of the pads .
I use a piece of wood , a little thinner than both pads , plus rotor , then pump the brake lever . this makes it a bit easier to clean the cylinders while the caliper is off the bike .
Also , check your pins , if there not completely smooth , replace them , then put a thin layer of brake grease on them , as well as the back of the pads .
Road Master
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,108
Likes: 353
From: Tyler Tx
Depending on how much fluid was in your reservoir you may be hydraulic locking as well. When you compressed them and pushed the fluid back in, filled it up, then started on the other the fluid had nowhere to go without cracking the bleeder.
Now youve gotten them on but its still completely full and so they cant retract off.
Could be crud too, but if they had no issue before, Id start here.
Now youve gotten them on but its still completely full and so they cant retract off.
Could be crud too, but if they had no issue before, Id start here.
Road Master
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 798
Likes: 726
From: Moncton, NB
Is this a bike with ABS. Things are simple with non-ABS bikes but if it's ABS, I would check the manual for all the required steps. If not, I would start with rebuilding the calipers with new seals...
Club Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 66,114
Likes: 51,401
From: Niles Canyon Ca.
Pistons will stick on the orings sometimes with some age. I pull the calipers, pump the pedal or lever till the pistons move our past the old sitting spot. Collapse the pistons just enough to go back over the rotors, work the brakes a few time to seat again, check fluid levels and 99% of the time everything is happy again
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2012
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From: Pittsburgh, Pa
Thanks all. Yes i cleaned around the edges of the pistons. It was like the fluid didnt want to go back into eh ABS module / master cylinder. I let it sit a couple hours, and tried the brake. The handle came back perfectly the way it should. I squeezed it five or six times, and it didnt go solid. Tried this AM, and the same thing. So, when i opened the bleeder, it must of got enough air in to screw me (I am thinking of course.) Winter is coming entirely too soon. So it will be sitting for a couple months. I will tear them apart and rebuild like you all suggested. THanks for the help!! This site is great!!
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2008
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From: San Diego, CA
Thanks all. Yes i cleaned around the edges of the pistons. It was like the fluid didnt want to go back into eh ABS module / master cylinder. I let it sit a couple hours, and tried the brake. The handle came back perfectly the way it should. I squeezed it five or six times, and it didnt go solid. Tried this AM, and the same thing. So, when i opened the bleeder, it must of got enough air in to screw me (I am thinking of course.) Winter is coming entirely too soon. So it will be sitting for a couple months. I will tear them apart and rebuild like you all suggested. THanks for the help!! This site is great!!
Sorry, but I have to ask.....
Prior to removing the front calipers, and then trying to expand the pistons back into the caliper, did you open up the master cylinder and see how much fluid was in there?
If you added fluid as the pads wore, you could end up with too much fluid in the system. That will not allow for the pistons to completely spread apart, and retract into the calipers...
That is what slodsm was suggesting in his post #4... You can hydro lock the system... If it was full of fluid, with no where to go, when you were trying to spread the pistons open to retract them into the calipers, they won't budge....
At the start of my brake jobs, I ALWAYS open the master cylinder and remove most of the fluid. I then leave the master cylinder open, to facilitate easy spreading of the calipers... and I spread them open slowly.... You don't want a DOT 4 sunami getting all over your painted pieces...
If you loosened the bleeder and it then let the caliper retract, sounds more like a hydro locked system than a dirty piston......
Last edited by hattitude; Oct 17, 2022 at 04:22 PM.
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Cruiser
Joined: May 2022
Posts: 131
Likes: 64
From: Cleveland
Thanks all. Yes i cleaned around the edges of the pistons. It was like the fluid didnt want to go back into eh ABS module / master cylinder. I let it sit a couple hours, and tried the brake. The handle came back perfectly the way it should. I squeezed it five or six times, and it didnt go solid. Tried this AM, and the same thing. So, when i opened the bleeder, it must of got enough air in to screw me (I am thinking of course.) Winter is coming entirely too soon. So it will be sitting for a couple months. I will tear them apart and rebuild like you all suggested. THanks for the help!! This site is great!!
Road Warrior
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 1,703
Likes: 909
From: SE Michigan
Interesting.
On my 2nd set of pads up front and 3rd set on the rears, 19 limited w/ ABS.
Never had an issue retracting pistons without doing anything special. I did have my brake and clutch fluid flushed fresh at the 2 year mark at the dealer, but other than wiping any crud off the pistons prior to putting new pads on, never had to open the system, bleeder screw or anything…
On my 2nd set of pads up front and 3rd set on the rears, 19 limited w/ ABS.
Never had an issue retracting pistons without doing anything special. I did have my brake and clutch fluid flushed fresh at the 2 year mark at the dealer, but other than wiping any crud off the pistons prior to putting new pads on, never had to open the system, bleeder screw or anything…
