Decided to go American Suspension Mach7r along with their spring kit w/+1" adjustable top with preload adjustment.

Pretty straight forward, kit replaces the stock damper rod and if going with their spring and adjustment it replaces the stock spring and spacers at top. I am reusing the stock fork tubes and likely not installing the +1" adjustable tops as I learned the Mach7R kit adds about 3" of suspension travel and when assembled +2" with stock top or +3" overall with +1" top. Talking to American Suspension I could add a spacer between damper rod and rebound spring. My understanding that would lesson suspension travel as spaced. I am leaning to install with stock top's have a +2" assembled length keeping the added travel.



Parts not removed being replaced.


Stock damper and Mach7r damper showing the extra length.



I did one fork at a time and this shows added length compared to stock. Waiting on +2 fork covers to arrive, so have some time to ponder if going +2 or +3 likely go the +2" route as I was originally planning a +1"







Assembly of the fork follows. Plenty of youtube videos removing from bike and disassembly.

Below shows the stock tube above internals not installed yet. The damper rod with rebound spring goes into the tube and the rod base then gets threaded on.

Damper rod and rebound spring going into stock tube.


Damper rod end through the tube, now damper end is threaded on.

Tube and damper now slide into the lower.


Similar to stock the base is bolted from the bottom. This has a oil ring seal, I lubed it and pushed into place by hand then started threading.


Threaded and torqued.


Reinstalling the OE seal.



Washer spacer goes on next. I used a allen wrench to gently guide the seal into it's slot so the outer dust seal isn't driving it against lip possibly damaging both.



I do this so little so haven't invested in a tool. I do the wrap electrical tape and use it to drive the dust seal into position. Just be sure to have enough tube extended to drive it in.

Dust seal fully seated and retaining ring installed.


Tube fully inserted I find roughly 5.5" of down travel lock to lock.


Then is install the spring be it OE or aftermarket.


Spacer washer ride atop spring and preload spacer go next. I am using AS adjustable spacer, could use the OE spacer with OE spring. The AS unit just allows easier spring preload adjustments.




Ready for oil or cap end for test fit. I was informed to use 21oz of 20wt fork oil.

Fully assembled and making a choice to go with the +1" adjustable cap/top or the OE. Likely go OE as again +2" or +3" and was planning a +1" originally.Front suspension completed, will be a long while before I get to test ride. Roads in MN still covered in snow,ice and salt not likely to change anytime soon. I am due to deploy for work mid February till end of August.

Reassembled most of the bike yesterday. Loaded a map form Fuel Moto and started the motor for the first time. Light tick from what sounded to be the rear cylinder so shut her down, that is a bummer. This morning I disassembled the push rods to the lifters. First thought was maybe the collar was a bit close but found the lifter I used for the intake will not stay pumped up, able to push piston in with a finger. I didn't notice that during assembly, but good to know what was causing the tick.

Also good to know no codes for the short time she ran, so once that lifter is addressed should be good.

Sat on the bike assembled with new suspension. 32" inseam wearing flat thin shoes I am not able to flat foot both feet now though is close.

I decided to use the stock fork top making a +2" over stock fork length. I cheated the forks up a bit for likely a 1.75" over stock setup. I changed out the chrome lower tree cover and fork boots/cow bells to +2" black fork covers by Drag Specialties and the black lower tree cover by WOWTK from Amazon.com. The tree cover paint matches well the Drag Specialties is slightly off but not enough to stick out in my opinion.



The brake caliper mount gets bolted to the lower, allowing changes to brake setups. I stuck with stock as I have had no complaints as yet with them.





The fender mounts are very adjustable up and down which is nice and bolt from the inside. This required drilling the threads out of the fender nuts so the bolt will slide through. I sprayed clear coat after drilling holes to avoid rust.

 

Etsy is a cool place, many talented people on there. Figured I needed this fuel cover.

 

Winter project complete. How she sits now, ready for a ride though outside is still snow, ice and salt.

 

You oughta be happier than a hawg in slop when the time comes to ride her.

 

Never seen those forks before, looks like nice stuff. I have the same pipe and going with 14" shocks so good to know there's no clearance issue.
I did notice you have the lower strap mount on your pipe, behind the floorboard. Mine doesn't have that....odd.
BEt you cant wait for better weather, thats gonna feel like a new bike!

 

Hmm bet Fuel Moto would send you that strap if yours didn't come with it. Though if been installed awhile now and no issue, likely looks cooler without it.
Very much looking forward to a ride. Need to make better life decisions such as moving to a location with a riding season August through February or year round even better.

 

Noob question on the suspension... I assume adding the 14" rear shocks raised the rear up one inch over stock? If yes, do you match the change with taller fork springs to keep the ride height from front to rear the same as stock?

For others that have changed to taller rear shocks have you noticed any negative handling changes?

 

My 22 RG standard came with 12" shocks so the rear raised 2" going to 14" shocks. The ST and Limited come with 13" shocks I believe. Going 14" in the rear and staying stock length in the front would be fine, change in trail would be very minor. For the front is all about rake and trail calculations and preferred handling. The Mach7R kit added 2" of travel and 2" assembled length compared to stock. https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/rakeandtrail.html

 

Yeah I do like the look better without, but I wonder if its putting stress elsewhere. Ill look into it, thanks.
I'm in Massachusetts so I hear you on the short season thing!

 

Simply put, these bikes come too high in the front and low in the rear as it is. You will notice better handling with 13-14" rear shocks with stock height front. You don't want the front taller than the rear so options are:
13" rear, stock front - no real difference, but better shock.
14" rear, stock front - slightly higher in the rear, which makes leaning side to side a little easier and faster.
or 14" rears with either 1 or 2" front....but not more than that. (want to keep the bike rear-high or level)