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Yeah. You are right. Wasn't thinking that way. I apologize, I am just frustrated with this. I am not new to electrical systems or vehicles, and I can follow signal flow better than a lot of people (20 years as a recording engineer). I will check it tomorrow and let you know. I am assuming there won't be a change, but you never know.
RUN/STOP functions fine as far as I can tell as the fuel pump activates. I know that is a separate circuit, but...
The one thing you changed was the lights. That would be the root cause probably. Not likely the battery died at the same time. Did you add an equalizer for the lights? LEDs draw a lot less current than incandescent.
I’m not sure it would all match up but I think my old lights from my led conversion on my 2011 RKC will fit at least for testing. I also have a load equalizer that might help diagnose. You are welcome to them, no charge.
@hattitude might know fitment on my parts vs your bike and have other ideas for testing.
Never had a fob or security in the 16 years I have had her. I will hunt down a resistor kit for the lights. I guess I never thought that would shut down the ignition. I removed the front turn signals 16 years ago and never had an issue.
Mine will flash a warning with a burnt out bulb or a led bulb in the signal light.
Originally Posted by hardcore13
12.9 volts sitting. I cannot get a reading while cranking because the bike won't crank. Battery is less than two years old.
A charged good battery with the surface charge removed by unplugging maintenance charger and removing it and turning headlights on and then off will remove that surface charge should read 12.7 at most. Usually 12.6.
12.3 usually won't crank a Harley. Once you get it cranking with meter across a charged battery should read 9.7 or higher for a good load test. Anything below 9.7 shows a warn out battery or bad connections.
Unhook a battery if you load test it with a instrument and only after it's charged good with a maintenance charger.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; May 9, 2023 at 11:56 PM.
I did not remove the seat to install the light, but I will double check the wiring to and from the ECM. Again. Thank you.
only other 2 things I can think off is check to make sure none of the wires going to the tail light assembly got picked/frayed etc. if that checks out, swap the battery. You seem to have checked everything I would.
The one thing you changed was the lights. That would be the root cause probably. Not likely the battery died at the same time. Did you add an equalizer for the lights? LEDs draw a lot less current than incandescent.
I’m not sure it would all match up but I think my old lights from my led conversion on my 2011 RKC will fit at least for testing. I also have a load equalizer that might help diagnose. You are welcome to them, no charge.
@hattitudemight know fitment on my parts vs your bike and have other ideas for testing.
He's getting good testing advice form Max & im and others... I have nothing to add.
IMHO... if he wants to test without the new LED light he should put the old light back in, rather than another new LED light. he knows that old one worked in his system...
Last edited by hattitude; May 10, 2023 at 08:41 AM.
I'd check the battery fuse. The small one.. With the errors you got, it might be blown. The only thing I can think of is that the new taillight /Turn signal shorted one of the turn signals temporally and when the TSSM tried to flash the signals with the ignition off it blew the fuse.. Battery fuse supplies power to ECM, Speedo, TSSM when the ignition is off.. I guess that it cleared if the turn signals flash 6 times on key on.. BTW check that new taillight turnsignals flash... IIRC Flashing 6 times means the TSSM got an error..
On the early TCs, the Tan/Green wire going to the starter relay from the TSSM. You can verify that it's held low when pressing the start button. If it goes hight, the TSSM is stopping the bike from starting.. It may be a blown fuse or bad TSSM.
While there may be a load issue with the turn signals, the issue should not stop the bike from starting.
Last edited by Max Headflow; May 10, 2023 at 09:18 AM.
Just curious if you found the issue with your bike not starting? I have a 09 TriGlide flhtcutg that I had in the shop several years ago for the same problem one minute itd start and run with no problem then Id go to start and absolutely nothing, like the battery was taken out no lights no radio nothing. I replaced the battery summer 22 recently checked all the fuses replaced battery in the key fob. And since Im not a mechanic my skills are limited. But the last time I had it in the shop for the same problem I went to pick it up drove it to my pickup to get helmet jacket when I got on to lead my wife back home it didnt start. Went got a mechanic when they got it back in shop all he did was scrape down a wire on the left side and it ran for years. Now it hasnt started in about two weeks. Problem is I dont remember which wire they worked on or find any thing that would ring a bell.
If anybody else has any possible info on this problem I sure would appreciate it best part of riding season is just about over.
Just curious if you found the issue with your bike not starting? I have a 09 TriGlide flhtcutg that I had in the shop several years ago for the same problem one minute itd start and run with no problem then Id go to start and absolutely nothing, like the battery was taken out no lights no radio nothing. I replaced the battery summer 22 recently checked all the fuses replaced battery in the key fob. And since Im not a mechanic my skills are limited. But the last time I had it in the shop for the same problem I went to pick it up drove it to my pickup to get helmet jacket when I got on to lead my wife back home it didnt start. Went got a mechanic when they got it back in shop all he did was scrape down a wire on the left side and it ran for years. Now it hasnt started in about two weeks. Problem is I dont remember which wire they worked on or find any thing that would ring a bell.
If anybody else has any possible info on this problem I sure would appreciate it best part of riding season is just about over.
The one thing you changed was the lights. That would be the root cause probably. Not likely the battery died at the same time. Did you add an equalizer for the lights? LEDs draw a lot less current than incandescent.
Im not sure it would all match up but I think my old lights from my led conversion on my 2011 RKC will fit at least for testing. I also have a load equalizer that might help diagnose. You are welcome to them, no charge.
@hattitude might know fitment on my parts vs your bike and have other ideas for testing.
I really appreciate that! I figure that it is something with the new lights now. I do not have the resistor kit yet. I was going to look that up tonight. I did hook up the old turn signals but that didn't change anything. Would there be something in the ECM that would kill the ignition if the lights were not drawing "proper" voltage? It looks like in 2011 they were using the same taillight assembly. How should I send you my address?
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