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When using the single hollow bolt.
You only need one wire to pass thru center of bolt if space is a concern....the positive wire
If done correctly the metal bolt itself could be utilized as ground/negative.
Obviously the metal bolt grounding to frame must be confirmed on frame side.
You can locate the single pre-drilled regular looking bolt on e Bay..
m8 seems to be a common size example
The matching u nut is rather common for frame side.
The hollow bolt idea with single wire was used by Harley for turn signals.
You wire the bolt for negative and pass positive wire through the hollow bolt.
The above method would require one additional ring terminal for inside the bag.
Rather simple, clean, no drilling, no solder and a minimal tools.
Something sharp to cut wire and a pluer to crimp the two ring terminals.
The posi-tap and posi-lock connectors make install easier.
If it were me, I would route both wires through the bolt versus using the bolt for ground. Grounding the bolt would require removing paint where the u-nut clips onto the saddlebag support. Removing paint is asking for rust/corrosion.
Pic is my bike, but the OP's bike also has black painted saddlebag supports.
FWIW ... Drilling and sealing a hole is the side of one of the bags isn't a big deal ... I use to drill a hole of the bottom of one of the bags to let the melted ice drain when using as a cooler ... A rubber "Drip Grommet" worked fine ... Later I sealed it up with some black silicone ... On your scooter a short pigtail with the end matching the unit needing power and the other end with a weather tight connector would do for inside the bag... The line from the scooter to the weather tight connector so that it could be easily unplugged when removing the saddle bag should get you power ... Provide a suitable cover for the power pigtail when not in use ( rubber cap etc )
We drill a hole under the front saddle bag screw and install our saddlebag grommet (Made in the USA like all parts should be) that you can push the wires through. They were designed just to pass wires though saddlebags, so they are easy to install without any headaches. https://jacksonvillecycleaudio.com/s...sold-in-pairs/
Helpful hint. I built helm stations for a high-end yacht company and when we drilled holes in the freshly painted fiberglass helms, we would run the drills backwards going through the paint so the cutting edge of the drill bit wouldn't catch the paint and cause chips or rips in the paint.
Post 23 is a cleaner wider water resistant access point than the running thread design, although thats a good idea as well. The grommet idea is hidden beneath the saddle bracket as well. Theyre just bigger holes. Measure twice drill once. (Per side of course).
On my 2021 RGS (and 2002 FLH with 14 up bags) I just run a long cable from the right glove box down the frame and into the right saddlebag for my phone. Lid closes fine and cable works fine. I have drilled bags in the past when I frenched in a set of led lights years ago. Drill and grommet the hole. With that set up, I made a connector for when removing the bags. No way to do that with the phone cord.
Quoting myself for clarification. When I stated "factory toilet flush handles", I was referring to the 2017+ bag fasteners. I believe the OP's bike is a 2022.
The fasteners are threaded, and screw into a 1/4-20 u-nut.
It may be difficult to source a 1/4 hollow bolt. The smallest I've seen are 5/16 with a 3/16 through hole. That being said, if a 5/16 hollow bolt is used, it may be necessary to ream the grommet out to 5/16 along with sourcing an appropriate 5/16 u-nut.
I don't enjoy the factory set up. But just tightening a theaded bolt in, while easier seems less secure. Especially since your really can't torque it down.
If you only want usb power, a battery pack may be an option.
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