break light problem
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Stage I
Joined: Aug 2023
Posts: 1
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From: CA
break light problem
Hello everyone,
I have a 05 road king, and I noticed my tail light isn't working correctly. If I use the rear break it seems to work fine, but if I use the front break, the tail light will turn on but when I release the front break, the tail light doesn't turn off. I have too wiggle the front break and the light will flicker sometimes, and sometimes turn off and sometimes it will just stay on. I have also noticed I will turn my bike on and the tail light wont even light up. I have to take the tail light cover off play with the bulb or wire and then it will turn on. I'm guessing I have a wire problem but have no idea where to even start looking since the tail light at times wont even turn on. I thought It was going to be front break only wire, but what is throwing me off is at times the light wont turn on at all.
thank you guys for any help you may have
I have a 05 road king, and I noticed my tail light isn't working correctly. If I use the rear break it seems to work fine, but if I use the front break, the tail light will turn on but when I release the front break, the tail light doesn't turn off. I have too wiggle the front break and the light will flicker sometimes, and sometimes turn off and sometimes it will just stay on. I have also noticed I will turn my bike on and the tail light wont even light up. I have to take the tail light cover off play with the bulb or wire and then it will turn on. I'm guessing I have a wire problem but have no idea where to even start looking since the tail light at times wont even turn on. I thought It was going to be front break only wire, but what is throwing me off is at times the light wont turn on at all.
thank you guys for any help you may have
My first instinct says the front brake switch is not working properly, but there may also be corrosion on the connections in the tail light socket. That would be the first place I checked. After that, I'm sure others will chime with better information.
Last time I had an issue similar to this, it was the front brake switch. The intermittent rear light and brake not lighting up. I replaced that switch and the problems went away. Best of luck to you.
Last time I had an issue similar to this, it was the front brake switch. The intermittent rear light and brake not lighting up. I replaced that switch and the problems went away. Best of luck to you.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 23,399
Likes: 8,509
From: Spartan Country, Michigan
I agree..... I'd pull the bulb out and check the socket. If clean and corrosion free, then probably front brake light switch.
and......
Welcome from Spartan Country, Michigan!
I tell a lot of new comers to the forum to get: Factory Service manual and the Parts manual. Take to an office supply store and have them put a spiral binder in place of the glued binder. That will let the manuals lay flat on your bench. Get a three ring binder and record all your maintenance, repairs, accessories, etc. This will be a great reminder of what was done when. And great material to pass along to the new owner should you sell and upgrade. Also know how large your fuel tank is, a rough idea of your range per tank, and record your fuel usage. I have an app called Simply Auto that I record all my fuel used. I use the odometer and use the fuel gage as reference only. I reset the odometer to zero on fill ups, and I know I can safely get 200 miles on a tank on around town riding, and upwards of 230+ on trips.
and......
Welcome from Spartan Country, Michigan!
I tell a lot of new comers to the forum to get: Factory Service manual and the Parts manual. Take to an office supply store and have them put a spiral binder in place of the glued binder. That will let the manuals lay flat on your bench. Get a three ring binder and record all your maintenance, repairs, accessories, etc. This will be a great reminder of what was done when. And great material to pass along to the new owner should you sell and upgrade. Also know how large your fuel tank is, a rough idea of your range per tank, and record your fuel usage. I have an app called Simply Auto that I record all my fuel used. I use the odometer and use the fuel gage as reference only. I reset the odometer to zero on fill ups, and I know I can safely get 200 miles on a tank on around town riding, and upwards of 230+ on trips.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 6,185
Likes: 2,134
From: W. Texas
The wiring usually runs from a connector under the seat and under rear fender to the rear lights
Your likely gonna have to do diagnostics.
Good Luck WP
Road Warrior
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,797
Likes: 1,188
First off, I'm going to go full "Karen" on you---it's "brake", not "break." Second, sometimes you say "tail light" when I think you mean "brake light." Okay, now on to being helpful.
I'd say you definitely have an issue with the front break switch. Remove the lever to get an idea how it works. You'll notice a tang on the lever that depresses a little button. Here's the odd part. When the tang depresses the button, it causes the brake light to go off. If the brake light stays on, it means the tang is not fully depressing the button. It's an easy fix without replacing the switch. Take a small piece of rubber, a part of a vacuum cap, or anything like that, and use JB Weld or epoxy to affix it to the tang. This will shorten the distance to the button and cause it work properly. In my experience, this fix holds up well, and I've rarely had to do it twice.
You may also have an issue with the tail light as evidenced by it not coming on when you start the bike. Jiggle the bulb or the wire until you find the problem. Not as helpful as my first bit of advice, but it will work.
I'd say you definitely have an issue with the front break switch. Remove the lever to get an idea how it works. You'll notice a tang on the lever that depresses a little button. Here's the odd part. When the tang depresses the button, it causes the brake light to go off. If the brake light stays on, it means the tang is not fully depressing the button. It's an easy fix without replacing the switch. Take a small piece of rubber, a part of a vacuum cap, or anything like that, and use JB Weld or epoxy to affix it to the tang. This will shorten the distance to the button and cause it work properly. In my experience, this fix holds up well, and I've rarely had to do it twice.
You may also have an issue with the tail light as evidenced by it not coming on when you start the bike. Jiggle the bulb or the wire until you find the problem. Not as helpful as my first bit of advice, but it will work.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 28,524
Likes: 3,953
From: Vermont
Confucius say, You break light, you have no more light.
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Grand HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 3,623
Likes: 2,886
From: Mostly Florida, some Michigan
I hate it when I brake my break light!
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Banned
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 4,027
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From: SoCal
The description provided suggests to me that there may be multiple failure modes at the same time.
Before you get in full deconstruction mode, check the contacts on the bulb for signs of ANY corrosion.
The design of these bulbs uses a very small contact point with another very small contact point inside the socket.
I just had to replace a friends' socket harness bc he had zero brake lights.
I agree w/ the front brake switch diagnosis, but also be aware that the harness inside the rear fender is prone to abrasion if the bike is, or ever was, lowered.
Before you get in full deconstruction mode, check the contacts on the bulb for signs of ANY corrosion.
The design of these bulbs uses a very small contact point with another very small contact point inside the socket.
I just had to replace a friends' socket harness bc he had zero brake lights.
I agree w/ the front brake switch diagnosis, but also be aware that the harness inside the rear fender is prone to abrasion if the bike is, or ever was, lowered.
Road Master
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,227
Likes: 417
From: Outer Banks, NC
Remember, the OP said his rear brake pedal lights the lamp so it's not his bulb or socket.
I've replaced my front switch once. So I'm on the second one coming up on 100,000.
The Harley service manual tells you to use a spacer to avoid damage to the switch. If you have gone into the switch before and didn't heed this advice you could have damaged the switch.
Also when you install a new switch you're dealing with tiny wires and you have to splice them. And then fit them all in the tiny space in the lever housing. When you tighten down the housing screws you want to make sure you don't crimp the wires and cause a short. Fun job.
I've replaced my front switch once. So I'm on the second one coming up on 100,000.
The Harley service manual tells you to use a spacer to avoid damage to the switch. If you have gone into the switch before and didn't heed this advice you could have damaged the switch.
Also when you install a new switch you're dealing with tiny wires and you have to splice them. And then fit them all in the tiny space in the lever housing. When you tighten down the housing screws you want to make sure you don't crimp the wires and cause a short. Fun job.
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