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At this point, I figured I should probably go with a big bore kit, and 89cc heads with valve springs that could handle the new power. So I called S and S and got the 100cu" bolt on kit. Everything was pre-matched so assembly was just the reverse... I re-used the rocker boxes, and upgraded to sexy red billet Fueling oil breathers. I also used Fueling 841 roller tappets, and S and S performance roller rocker arms and Feuling Gorilla shafts. I also used brand new ARP hardware throughout the build, following factory and manufacturer torque specs and procedures. I used ARP Molylube under all of the hardware to obtain correct torque readings. I'm a tool guy, so I purchased all the correct tools for this build. (I looked at all the YouTube shortcuts but nothing feels as good as using the right tools for the job). The only tool I would not recommend is the Feuling pushrod tube holder. It's garbage (it needs to be 1" longer.) I just twisted four cotter pins and used elastic bands. Others use safety clips but I had none on hand...
At this point the 88 air cleaner was not applicable as the engine was now a 100. So I wanted an S and S teardrop air cleaner as it reminded me of all the Evo's I had owned in the past. After some research I realized that a MM dual intake did not support this without a custom adapter. I looked far and wide for a bolt on with no dice. I don't have the time to make one/get one made so I decided to kill 2 birds with one stone. I spoke with my old friends at Zippers and grabbed a MM to Delphi conversion Kit with autotune. I listed all of my upgrades and they dialed in a base tune matching my engines telematics. I also installed SS quickee pushrods (the collapsable ones) This kit took some massaging, and after a few days of foul language, busted knuckles, and aluminum shards in my fingers I got it to fit. I purchased a mini laptop from Best Buy and an external CD rom drive to load the software. The base tune is already on my ECU, so after clearing any codes per the Zippers manual I am ready to connect the USB cable to my laptop to help break my engine in. I will see live metrics on the screen, to prevent from murdering my internals. I also have my compression and leakdown tester, cylinder compression tool and borescope on hand for each of the steps. I will purge the air from the oiling system, and use an oil can to lubricate and oil all moving parts with the rockers off. It's important to open up the oil pressure sending unit to help purge air. I also added an Ultra cool oil cooler so 2-4 oz of extra oil will be added. (that was a nightmare to install) I put the LED light to show fan functionality on the nacelle and used the tester to make sure it was wired correctly. Here are some further progress shots.
Braided Goodwrich lines Delphi upgrade from Zippers
Thank you for the kind words... I need help with an issue I am currently having and the service from the distributor has been terrible. Can you advise me please?
As my tins are off for paint, I have no "gas system" so I purchased a used tank to fulfill that role. I also purchased an in tank filter, pump, and other internals. Do I connect an EFI hose from the filter (out) to the spout on the inside of the tank? This tank is not the same as my 99" Roadking. My tank has dual caps. How does the electrical get set up? It does have the dual hoses on the bottom of the tank. Will this set up for for my Roadking? My Roadking has a "dash" that covers this fill opening... Any help is appreciated @470004
Where does this connect? There is a male tab on this plate... but that looks like a ground? Fuel filter Attachment point to tank... is this the same on my Roadking tank? Here is the metal tube in the tank here is the end on the fuel filter... does it attach to the nozzle in the tank? Attachment area for fuel filter strap overview this harness comes off the EFI system. What is this single blue wire for? this GR/Y wire is from the bike top of efi wiring does this yellow plug go here? does this orange/black harness from the bike plug in here? What about the gray wire?
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