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I believe my FSM suggests using anti-sleaze on one side of the adjuster to keep the cam from turning as the nut is tightened.
When I changed my tires on the RGU the first time, I was not too pleased with the set up in comparison with my Softail's set up. I have been considering the Vulcanworks product. But I've only done it once, so there's that.
Thanks man - I knew I heard it somewhere way back when.
I have the Vulcan engineering adjuster. I bought it for two reasons. First, as others have mentioned, it's a dog and pony show trying to dial in the belt tension sometimes.The other reason was that the stock adjustment setup allows the belt to loosen up with the higher HP/torque engines.I tried axle locks, but those created another pain in the *** issue with spacing the shocks out, and trying to line up the lock with the nut, to the right adjustment.
In any event, if you go the Vulcan route, know that the size of the locking nut and axle nut are not the same as OEM. Meaning if you bought any specialty wrenches, torque adapter arms etc. you will need to use something else. The head of the nut that is fixed to the axle is thicker ( linear) than stock, which lends itself to interfere with the 4.5" slip-ons. In the end, the adjusters work like the older bikes and will keep the adjustment in check. my 1-1/2 cents on that.
Don't shortchange yourself.
Thanks for the info, Jake.
The head depth wouldn't bother, but the hex size being different is concerning. WTF would they do that? (A somewhat rhetorical question).
FSM says cost the axle (10) and thin film on the inboard side of the nut (14). it lubricated, to prevent the nut from turning the snail under it as you tighten it down.
Design certainty isn’t convenient, easy and several other terms. Always thought it was odd how far out you went on the snails, as it made fine adjustments darn fiddly.
I got by well enough with two large wrenches myself, one on each side, working from the rear. My left hand holding the axle as I want, my right tightening the nut.
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