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since everyone is dancing around your question, i'll answer it with what i would do. yes, i would change the tire after 5 years (+/-). reason being, even though the tread is still in spec, the rubber gets 'hard' and doesn't grip the road as well.
think about it this way. even though you've only got 2k miles in 5 years, is it really out of line economically to spend $500 for another set of tires that will last you another 5 years?
Originally Posted by skratch
feet?
i disagree. i would think that any savings that you get from running a tire this long would be well eaten up by the cost of the tow. not to mention, time wasted.
Originally Posted by MikeBel
Rubber hardens with age; we all know this. At some point this degradation of the rubber may be a critical factor in survival. Really worth a life gamble?
I pay the dealer to change tires. About $600. if I get 2 years, $25 @ month, or
.82 Cents @ DAY. Who of you spends $6+ on a fancy coffee (SB or DB), or my gosh, how much are cigarettes now?
I do neither. I can easily afford new tires every 2 years.
General rule is around 3/32, or near the top of Lincolns hair line. Alternately, your wear bars are level with the remaining tread. That, an any age cracks replace immediately.
Last "NEW" tire I installed had only 7mm before ever mounted! So only 1 mm before wear warning 😭
Less than 2mm of tread left in center of rear 200/50/18 @ 6200 miles was my last rear tire and my new record and NEVER done a burnout on any of my "Harleys".
Factory Dunlop went about 3k but traction was dogpoo as she spun all the time when in the power.
So better traction = better braking.
So keep running them harder high mileage tires and pray that a bit more braking isn't all you needed to avoid your final outcome in a pinch. ☝️🙏
G-force is my weakness, not speed as in 0 to 70ish and then set cruise and chill.
Louisiana roads are hard on tire anyway. When I left NOLA for NC, suddenly my tire life went from 8000-9000 to 12,000+.
Louisiana roads are hard on tire anyway. When I left NOLA for NC, suddenly my tire life went from 8000-9000 to 12,000+.
Guessing maybe the extreme heat hereand or ya definitely have more curves to give the bottom of the tire a break! 😂
My son stole away my grandchild to SC a few months ago, so I will definitely be doing some riding to SC soon!
I am surprised no one has been banned in this thread yet. Maybe over the weekend.
I do wonder if cool garages and out of sun places a part. Though I suspect the counter argument is it losses grip and gets hard even though not cracked.
Then all you need is the specification for the rubber hardness. As a former Army Civilian QA, we had to measure some rubber components and adhesives to ensure they w ere still within self life or to extend self life. Was a bit of a pain in the butt and following the procedures.
Never got the chance to test on prophylactics or diaphragms though - lol
Mohs Durometer Tester Shore Type A/O/D Rubber Tire Durometer Tester
The durometer tester Shore A/O/D is a specific type of durometer used to measure the hardness of rubber tires. It is designed to measure the hardness of vehicle tires, ranging from race slicks to high-durability truck tires. This durometer is available in three different Shore scales (Shore A, Shore O, and Shore D). These scales are suited to measuring the hardness of all rubbers, though they are widely used on non-elastomer polymers as well. The indentation probe that is pressed against the surface of the rubber tire serves to measure hardness by means of the depth of indentation under the load of the sprung mounting of the indenter. The shape of this for Shore D (and Shore B and Shore M) indenter is a sharp cone point measured at 30° from the diametral axis. The Shore A (and Shore C) indenter is a flat cone with sides sloping up at 35° from the horizontal. The Shore O (and the Shore OO and Shore DO) scale uses a 2.4 mm diameter hemispherical indenter. These devices are designed to be handheld for ease of use, simply pressed up against the sample until a maximum reading is achieved. This durometer can be bought for $30–$40.
On my Baggers I replace basically every 12-14 months. On Pearl my Heritage Softail, and on my Shovelhead I ride them every week, but not near the miles add up, so the tires last much longer. It's been 4 years on Pearl, so probably next year I will replace them. Just put a new tire on my Shovelhead. I have a tire machine, do all my own tire and bearing changes, so the expense is down, just the cost of tires and my time, but I like being in my shop.......
Date codes are on tires for a reason. Learn how to read them and make good decisions.
A friend of mine had an older Dyna that had tires that were 10+ years old, and that bike was not safe to ride IMO. It was squirrelly in corners. Hard rubber and a slick feeling, like it could come out from under you. I told him to bring it over, we would put new rubber on it, but he didn't because he traded it in to a used bike dealer. He told the dealer to tell anyone who bought it that the tires were old, needed changed. Some guy bought it and was killed on it a week later. I can't help but wonder if those old *** tires had something to do with his wreck.
I bought my 2015 softail slim in 2020, it had the original tires in it. They looked fine, bike had 4700 miles on it when I bought it, tires were not even close to being down to the wear bars. No cracks or anything . I put a few thousand Mile's on those tires over the summer, rear tire flatted 1/2 way through one of the nicest rides that season. I blew the rest of that day limping the bike to a restaurant parking lot, going home, getting my trailer, going back home. Scheduling a tire replacement, during the Covid bs when Noone had tires in stock. Never again, my tires get replaced before they hit 8000 miles, about every season.
Last "NEW" tire I installed had only 7mm before ever mounted! So only 1 mm before wear warning 😭
I actually agree with you. These are industry standards based on tests done for automotive tires. Their tread pattern is very different than motorcycle groove patterns. But, it does offer a base line for traction in wet conditions based on the tire grooves ability to remove water. Hardness, tire pressure, et Al can make as much difference. Thanks for pointing this out as my own elites when new were about 8.5 mm at the center and about 7 mm leaning over talking to god.
I always wore out a rear tire every year on a 1000cc 4. They took a beating. Then I got a big cruiser and they would last two or even three years.
Nothing freshens up a bike like a set of skins. The handling is so much better, they're worth it.
If it weren't for the money I'd change my new Dunlops right now. I like Avons.
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