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Old May 2, 2024 | 06:00 PM
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Default brake light

On my 2011 Ultra- My break light and cruise control both work until the bike warms up, maybe 10 minutes. Then no break light or cruise. Bike cools down and both work again.
I get a code C1094 indicating a problem with front break light switch. What would make it quit every time it warms up? I just replaced the battery before this problem, but don't see how that could affect it. The foot switch also won't light the brake when the cruise control and front switch quit
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Last edited by 62hdbiker; May 2, 2024 at 06:07 PM.
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Old May 2, 2024 | 07:24 PM
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Fix the C1094 problem then go from there. The brake light switch is defective and fails to function when hot.
The brake light is probably on all the time when failure is occurring which is why the cruise control is also failing.

If you take a real close look at your light when failing you will notice the brake light is on all the time.
 
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Old May 2, 2024 | 07:26 PM
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Have you recently done anything with the front brake lever or the switch pack on that side? What you are describing is most often caused by a damaged front brake light switch. The brake light stays ON all the time and you don't see the brake light get any brighter when you activate the brake because it is already lighted. The brake light activation also makes the cruise inoperative because the system sees the brake light on, one of the actions that cancels the cruise control. There is a small plastic button on the end of the brake light switch rubber dust cover and if that is broken off, the plunger isn't pushed far enough to turn off the brake light when you release the brake lever. The next time this happens, push the front brake lever firmly against the stop in the released position and see if the brake light goes out.

When I broke my little button I found a very small plastic bolt at the hardware store, cut it to about 1/8 inch length and glued it to the end of the rubber dust boot. It was still working well at 108,000 miles and 15 years of age when I traded for my new machine. Others have removed the brake lever, drilled a small hole and screwed in a small bolt or screw so the head on the bolt would push on the brake light switch plunger. If your button is still on the dust boot, there is a V shaped spring inside the switch housing that pushes the brake light switch toward the lever. That spring could have slipped or broken and the switch gets pushed too far into the housing and the plunger hasn't traveled far enough to turn out the light.

There is also a chance this might be the rear brake light switch malfunctioning and causing your problem. If you remove the wire from the rear switch and go for a ride, if everything works as it should, the rear switch is the problem. Remember to use your front brake, at least a little when you are stopping because the rear switch is disconnected. The rear switch is a pressure switch and to the best of my knowledge, is not repairable, it must be replaced. Good luck, I hope it is nothing more complicated.
 
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Old May 2, 2024 | 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by 62hdbiker
On my 2011 Ultra- My break light and cruise control both work until the bike warms up, maybe 10 minutes. Then no break light or cruise. Bike cools down and both work again.
I get a code C1094 indicating a problem with front break light switch. What would make it quit every time it warms up? I just replaced the battery before this problem, but don't see how that could affect it. The foot switch also won't light the brake when the cruise control and front switch quit
Thanks
Your bike has a recall for the breaks, take it to the dealer and get an estimate, It is a safety recall, should be free.
Check below to see for sure.
Harley Recall list
 

Last edited by Mongo1958; May 2, 2024 at 08:55 PM.
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Old May 3, 2024 | 07:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Rustyg500
Fix the C1094 problem then go from there. The brake light switch is defective and fails to function when hot.
The brake light is probably on all the time when failure is occurring which is why the cruise control is also failing.

If you take a real close look at your light when failing you will notice the brake light is on all the time.
Thanks, that makes sense- I will do that as soon as I can get a switch
 

Last edited by 62hdbiker; May 3, 2024 at 07:53 AM.
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Old May 3, 2024 | 07:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Mongo1958
Your bike has a recall for the breaks, take it to the dealer and get an estimate, It is a safety recall, should be free.
Check below to see for sure.
Harley Recall list
None of my bikes go to a dealer or any other shop
 
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Old May 3, 2024 | 07:55 AM
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Originally Posted by btsom
Have you recently done anything with the front brake lever or the switch pack on that side? What you are describing is most often caused by a damaged front brake light switch. The brake light stays ON all the time and you don't see the brake light get any brighter when you activate the brake because it is already lighted. The brake light activation also makes the cruise inoperative because the system sees the brake light on, one of the actions that cancels the cruise control. There is a small plastic button on the end of the brake light switch rubber dust cover and if that is broken off, the plunger isn't pushed far enough to turn off the brake light when you release the brake lever. The next time this happens, push the front brake lever firmly against the stop in the released position and see if the brake light goes out.

When I broke my little button I found a very small plastic bolt at the hardware store, cut it to about 1/8 inch length and glued it to the end of the rubber dust boot. It was still working well at 108,000 miles and 15 years of age when I traded for my new machine. Others have removed the brake lever, drilled a small hole and screwed in a small bolt or screw so the head on the bolt would push on the brake light switch plunger. If your button is still on the dust boot, there is a V shaped spring inside the switch housing that pushes the brake light switch toward the lever. That spring could have slipped or broken and the switch gets pushed too far into the housing and the plunger hasn't traveled far enough to turn out the light.

There is also a chance this might be the rear brake light switch malfunctioning and causing your problem. If you remove the wire from the rear switch and go for a ride, if everything works as it should, the rear switch is the problem. Remember to use your front brake, at least a little when you are stopping because the rear switch is disconnected. The rear switch is a pressure switch and to the best of my knowledge, is not repairable, it must be replaced. Good luck, I hope it is nothing more complicated.
Would any of the above happen only when bike gets hot? and work perfectly for first ten minutes of ride?
 
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Old May 9, 2024 | 05:54 PM
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Turned out to be the foot brake switch even though the code was the front switch
i cut out the front switch and still had problem. Replaced led light with stock light from my stock still a problem. Removed wire from rear switch and all was solved. Need to replace switch which is just inches from exhaust. Maybe make a small stainless shield to protect it
 
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Old May 9, 2024 | 09:28 PM
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Originally Posted by 62hdbiker
Would any of the above happen only when bike gets hot? and work perfectly for first ten minutes of ride?
The rear brake switch is very close to an exhaust pipe and can get very warm. I vaguely remember a rear brake switch recall back around 2011. The switch not being able to take the heat was the suspected cause of the failure.
 
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Old May 10, 2024 | 08:20 AM
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Originally Posted by 62hdbiker
None of my bikes go to a dealer or any other shop
After reading this whole thread you should’ve taken the bike to a dealer.
 
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