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@Rounders@N1265 tested today on a 2011 RKC and a 2021. It shuts off fuel and spark. This makes sense since they have an electric pump. If you are hitting the kill switch, might be a reason you don’t want fuel pumping too.
That is always my question. Though last year, I think someone had one. Though not the first place I would start. At 6 years, its a toss up, wouldn't hurt.
But I would look at wiring and see if there is connector that has wires for flasher and another connector for evderything else. I may be off base.
On your year, where is the button for hazards, is it on the bars or ??
That is always my question. Though last year, I think someone had one. Though not the first place I would start. At 6 years, its a toss up, wouldn't hurt.
But I would look at wiring and see if there is connector that has wires for flasher and another connector for evderything else. I may be off base.
On your year, where is the button for hazards, is it on the bars or ??
Underneath the horn/lights on the left and start/run on the right
Only reason I asked was to maybe try and explain if it would be in a different connector than everything else in the fairing. I still would look at wiring print. I know on my year there is one big connector. Not sure if two.
I just find it weird flashers work but everything else is off. But that may be to the way BCMs work? Not enough voltage to operate and flashers are hard wired?? All specualation never worked on this year or a BCM
A weak battery will sometimes have enough surface charge after setting for a while @Germansheperd , same as it can a car. I just did it with my Road King. What it can’t do is retain enough DC voltage from the voltage regulator after if converts the AC to DC so it does while you are riding. When that happens you lose throttle since it is tbw. The bike seems like it is running because it is in gear but it really isn’t, the parts are just moving.
Lithium batteries can’t be conventionally load tested but others can. Lithiums have a different test that has to be run on them. Generally having an issue like this with a 6 year old battery it is a good idea to eliminate that as a source since it is at least close to end of life.
I am not against a new battery, but I would like to put an effort into it, in case not. My bike cut out once stop light, next time it cut out on highway at night. Luckily no traffic I knew the area and coasted off the road.
ingition switch, another bike the connector in the fairing
Harley wants $200. for a new AGM battery, so I borrowed one from a buddy of mine. I also hosed down the kill and start switch with contact cleaner and let air dry, then hosed it down again with WD-40 and re-assembled it.
Then after that, I took apart the two smaller plugs behind the air cleaner and hosed them down with contact cleaner then packed the female ends with dilectric grease and re-assembled them. I then took apart the TB connector, hosed it down with contact cleaner, rubbed the pins with a Q-tip and packed the female end with dilectric grease and re-assembled it. I could not get the plug for the TPS switch apart so I left it alone.
After all that I got the bike running and then tried to duplicate the shut off condition by adding pressure to the run switch ( pushing down ) and it did NOT kill the bike this time . I took it out for a 3 hr cruise with no issues and after returning home I tried to kill it with the run side of the switch again but it had no effect, so for now everything is good, I do not know how long it will last and I do not know what of the above counter measures actually fixed this condition...
The only other variable that needs mentioning is that today the tempeture was in the low 80's VS the mid 90's so I do not know if heat had any effect on this condition. My buddy is going to take my battery in to work and have it load tested and if good then throw it in his bike to see if it causes any trouble in his .
Many Thanks to all who contributed to this thread, if the condition returns I will let you guys know .
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