Shift issue
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 9,206
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From: Central Illinois, Between I-80 and I-74
Loosen the cable adjustment in the middle of the cable. Adjust the set screw/nut inside the derby cover (Thie is the important one and I'm sure there are directions in many forums and on you tube). Then redo the mid cable adjustment.
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Joined: Jan 2022
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From: B.C.
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Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 71
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From: Missouri
Did you fill the primary with fluid, with bike level on lift, to this point?
Fluid higher than that in the primary, is going to cause striction problems between the plates,and clutch will never release correctly.
Also, same problem can happen if the fluid being used, is to thick and to the correct level.
Fluid lower than that point, then the discs are at the mercy of the reduced amount of fluid being thrown up in the primary to keep the discs lubed, or can end up with heat problems on the discs.
So oil level in motor, bike on jiffy stand,
primary and trans fluid levels, bike level on stand.
And don't trust the manual on amounts in the primary,since have seen a few of them wrong, so use the above the diagram for primary fluid level and again, bike level, not on jiffy stand.
And for good measure, what fluids used for three hole change, and weights of each.
Fluid higher than that in the primary, is going to cause striction problems between the plates,and clutch will never release correctly.
Also, same problem can happen if the fluid being used, is to thick and to the correct level.
Fluid lower than that point, then the discs are at the mercy of the reduced amount of fluid being thrown up in the primary to keep the discs lubed, or can end up with heat problems on the discs.
So oil level in motor, bike on jiffy stand,
primary and trans fluid levels, bike level on stand.
And don't trust the manual on amounts in the primary,since have seen a few of them wrong, so use the above the diagram for primary fluid level and again, bike level, not on jiffy stand.
And for good measure, what fluids used for three hole change, and weights of each.
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 15,787
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From: along the shore of Mishigami
Just curious, you do know the clutch pack and cable are to be adjusted on a cold/room temp. engine primary. I realize the dealer shops don't wait for a cold engine, but they must have a "secret" way on the clutch pack to compensate for the heat.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 4,445
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From: Oklahoma
Probably there is nothing wrong, but that doesn't mean you won't benefit from a full and proper clutch adjustment. On occasion i will stop before I have had a chance to down shift into first before the bike is stopped and the transmission won't go into the next gear. Try easing the clutch lever out to the start of the friction zone while holding pressure on the shift lever. The transmission will rotate slightly and the dogs in the next gear will line up and the transmission will drop into that gear. Then pull the lever back to the grip. Often I must repeat that process several times until I get it into low. Most of the time that process isn't necessary. It just seems to be the luck of the draw as to whether you can shift while not moving or must drag the clutch slightly as described above to shift into the desired gear.
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