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2024 Road Glide DIY Amplifier Upgrade

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Old Aug 7, 2024 | 05:25 AM
  #21  
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That’s what I was hoping to avoid. Hmm…
 
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Old Aug 7, 2024 | 06:09 AM
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Originally Posted by BrandonSmith
That’s what I was hoping to avoid. Hmm…
I didn’t use it but this amp says it does not require the use of the remote wire if you use the hi input instead of the rca cables for signal. It’s the same outlet on the amp, just a different plug that is included in the box. If you wanted to use a remote, you could always add a pin to the other side of the harness but I would suggest using a legit crimping tool if you do to make sure the pin inserts all the way into it. I had some difficulties with mine.
 
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Old Aug 7, 2024 | 07:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Irishkill4fun
I didn’t use it but this amp says it does not require the use of the remote wire if you use the hi input instead of the rca cables for signal. It’s the same outlet on the amp, just a different plug that is included in the box. If you wanted to use a remote, you could always add a pin to the other side of the harness but I would suggest using a legit crimping tool if you do to make sure the pin inserts all the way into it. I had some difficulties with mine.
I avoid using the high level inputs as a remote because I don't want to power the amp when the engine is off and the radio is on. I really prefer a fuse tap on a "run" fuse, so that the amp is only on if the engine is running. I don't think we have room for a fuse tap with the weatherproof cover on the fuse block.
 
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Old Aug 7, 2024 | 08:09 AM
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Originally Posted by BrandonSmith
I avoid using the high level inputs as a remote because I don't want to power the amp when the engine is off and the radio is on. I really prefer a fuse tap on a "run" fuse, so that the amp is only on if the engine is running. I don't think we have room for a fuse tap with the weatherproof cover on the fuse block.
Completely understand.
 
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Old Aug 7, 2024 | 08:27 AM
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Just a question,since never saw the actual install of the amp a problem itself,
but have you load tested the entire voltage system to see what is drawing for amperage at the sound levels your going to run the stereo, to make sure that the charging system can keep up with the draw in the first place.
Note, turn on all the system on the bike, including heated seat and hand grips as well, if bike has them, so you know total draw with everything you may have on at any time.

Hence short of short rides, where you can park the bike and put it on the tender to charge the battery back up between rides, but long all day trips could end up not only draining the battery down since charging system may not be able to keep up while riding, heavy toll on the battery begin discharged to dam near drain state each time, much less charging system doing a melt down from always putting out max outputs at all times trying to keep up.
 
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Old Aug 7, 2024 | 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Dano523
Just a question,since never saw the actual install of the amp a problem itself,
but have you load tested the entire voltage system to see what is drawing for amperage at the sound levels your going to run the stereo, to make sure that the charging system can keep up with the draw in the first place.
Note, turn on all the system on the bike, including heated seat and hand grips as well, if bike has them, so you know total draw with everything you may have on at any time.

Hence short of short rides, where you can park the bike and put it on the tender to charge the battery back up between rides, but long all day trips could end up not only draining the battery down since charging system may not be able to keep up while riding, heavy toll on the battery begin discharged to dam near drain state each time, much less charging system doing a melt down from always putting out max outputs at all times trying to keep up.
I don’t use any heated gear, always use a tender, and even going a few hundred miles here and there have never had any issues on any bikes I’ve owned and they have all had aftermarket systems pushing 1000watts+
 
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Old Aug 7, 2024 | 09:15 AM
  #27  
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End of the day with all the new electronics on these bikes, unless its straight plug-n-play, Im not going near it... When your dropping 30k on a new sled, whats the real difference between 300 and 600.00 in cost per mile?
 
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Old Aug 7, 2024 | 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by uncle kebo
End of the day with all the new electronics on these bikes, unless its straight plug-n-play, Im not going near it... When your dropping 30k on a new sled, whats the real difference between 300 and 600.00 in cost per mile?
Totally up to you but I like and try to do things on my own and feel like we’ve lost a lot of that in today’s generation.
 
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Old Aug 7, 2024 | 10:07 AM
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As a point of interest on charging. The new bikes have a load shedding strategy. If the charging system is struggling to maintain a charge, the system will begin shutting down non essential systems, heated gear, heated grips, auxiliary lamps and anything connected to the 12v accessory plug under the seat. It will also limit the volume of the stock amp to 30% (See page 75 of the 2024 RG/SG manual).

There's an indicator (10 in the image below) that comes on when load shedding is taking place. If the charging system drops to a voltage where it can no longer charge the battery, that Icon changes to a red battery symbol to let you know.



 
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Old Aug 8, 2024 | 05:09 AM
  #30  
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That's another reason that you use only Class D amps on the bikes, power draw vs output power.
 
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