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OP can try to adjust the clutch using 1 full turn and leave 1/8 inch play at the lever. See how it works.. If he winds it up a little in second and having a little finger pressure on the clutch lever chops the throttle and the lever pops out, then it's likely the mainshaft bearing in the trap door is loose in the door and sliding back and forth some.. What causes the clutch to slip is the mainshaft moving enough that the clutch disengages. What moves the mainshaft is the helical cut on second gear.. Higher gears is less of an issue but still there.
Of the HDs I've ridden with the clunkdrive tranny, they all move the lever a little but when it's excessive, it can cause issues with the clutch.
There is nothing wrong with using engine braking, experienced motorcycle riders have been doing it since manual transmissions were invented, with no adverse results (as long as it is done properly, of course).
The problem arises because many people have never learned how to properly down shift, they just close the throttle, pull in the clutch lever and jam the bike down into the lower gears, I see and hear it every time I ride with friends.
That is why Harley came out with the slipper clutch.
While I agree 100% with your disagree I think the real reason for the slip/assist is a little different.. SA serves 2 functions. It lowers lever pressure by using friction of a couple plates to wedge the pressure plate tighter. This allows reduction in spring pressure. Also on the down shift it releases pressure allowing the clutch to slip. This reduces the possibility of the rear tire from breaking loose if engine RPM is too low when downshifting to the next gear. This can be an issue if done in corners.
FWIW, I removed the SA clutch from my RK mainly because it makes the engagement too sensitive in lower RPMs..
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