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2nd gear slips on deceleration 07 FLHRC

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Old Aug 24, 2024 | 03:54 PM
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Default 2nd gear slips on deceleration 07 FLHRC

Help man we’re stumped! Went to 16” bars on my 07 RK Classic, got the burlyss cables. After finishing the job, now we get a rattle upon deceleration and using the compression of the engine to slow the bike down. This only happens in 2nd gear. Have had the bike through all the gears and it’s clean all the way up and all the down down with the exception of 2nd gear only. This also doesn’t happen when the bike is at low low rpms under 2000 I’d say.
 
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Old Aug 24, 2024 | 04:08 PM
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Originally Posted by 96twincam
Help man we’re stumped! Went to 16” bars on my 07 RK Classic, got the burlyss cables. After finishing the job, now we get a rattle upon deceleration and using the compression of the engine to slow the bike down. This only happens in 2nd gear. Have had the bike through all the gears and it’s clean all the way up and all the down down with the exception of 2nd gear only. This also doesn’t happen when the bike is at low low rpms under 2000 I’d say.

One of three problems,

Start by backing off the take up on the clutch cable and readjust the clutch rod and nut, so allen wrench will hang to right in place with crush nut backed off, then back off center bolt too 1/4 turn, tighten crush nut and make sure center bolt staying in place, then readjust clutch cable.

If that is not it, then time to check shift fork and dog ring for 1/4, the shift drum for wear and if not a problem there, then time to pull trans apart to replace the needed gears that the side tabs/slots are worn out/why the trans is not staying in that gear.


Hence is not the outer teeth that get broken off, but the side tabs and slots that get worn away instead that causes the problem with trans gear not staying engaged.


And fyi, pulling the trans apart is not that hard, since you leave the case bolted in place, and just pulll the guts out of the trans while trans still on the bike.
 
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Old Aug 24, 2024 | 05:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Dano523
One of three problems,

Start by backing off the take up on the clutch cable and readjust the clutch rod and nut, so allen wrench will hang to right in place with crush nut backed off, then back off center bolt too 1/4 turn, tighten crush nut and make sure center bolt staying in place, then readjust clutch cable.

If that is not it, then time to check shift fork and dog ring for 1/4, the shift drum for wear and if not a problem there, then time to pull trans apart to replace the needed gears that the side tabs/slots are worn out/why the trans is not staying in that gear.


Hence is not the outer teeth that get broken off, but the side tabs and slots that get worn away instead that causes the problem with trans gear not staying engaged.


And fyi, pulling the trans apart is not that hard, since you leave the case bolted in place, and just pulll the guts out of the trans while trans still on the bike.
we’ve adjusted the cable and clutch. This bike has only 8k miles on it and had zero symptoms prior to clutch cable change.
 
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Old Aug 24, 2024 | 07:05 PM
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With respect to Dano523. The clutch adjustment may be the issue, not a gear issue. The reason......

If you had NO issues before changing the handle bars, there "should" NOT be a mechanical issue now, as in a gear crapped out. Could be a clutch adjustment issue. Could??? also be an issue with something rattling on the bike in that gear and a certain RPM. As in a cable or the like that you changed is now banging against something, but only when the vibrations are right in second gear.

When you downshift to second gear, what speed are you doing that at? Also what RPM are you at when you have the clutch lever fully released? You also mentioned it does not happen below 2000RPM. Does it rattle until you get below 2000 RPM and then it stops??

Where are you hearing the rattle from??

I would look at these before pulling the trans apart.

Just a thought,
Tom
 
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Old Aug 24, 2024 | 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom H
With respect to Dano523. The clutch adjustment may be the issue, not a gear issue. The reason......

If you had NO issues before changing the handle bars, there "should" NOT be a mechanical issue now, as in a gear crapped out. Could be a clutch adjustment issue. Could??? also be an issue with something rattling on the bike in that gear and a certain RPM. As in a cable or the like that you changed is now banging against something, but only when the vibrations are right in second gear.

When you downshift to second gear, what speed are you doing that at? Also what RPM are you at when you have the clutch lever fully released? You also mentioned it does not happen below 2000RPM. Does it rattle until you get below 2000 RPM and then it stops??

Where are you hearing the rattle from??

I would look at these before pulling the trans apart.

Just a thought,
Tom

I’m guessing on the rpms, in 2nd gear only, this is only once the throttle is released completely (as long as you keep the throttle even slightly engaged it does not rattle at all) and the compression of the engine is used to slow down. The noise is from the front end i can hear it on both sides. Sometimes sounds like a chain skipping teeth idk honestly. At slow rpms like 2500 if I slowly release the clutch in second I can hear it slip and make a clunk, pull the clutch back in goes away. .
 
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Old Aug 25, 2024 | 11:17 AM
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There was some metal debris inside the clutch / tramission cover that we noticed when we switched the clutch cable. Could this 8k mile bike have a remission issue already? I only put 800 miles on it and it rode fine until we changed the clutch cable….
 
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Old Aug 25, 2024 | 02:39 PM
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Engine and trans are to go faster, not to be used for braking instead.

So yes, if you are using the trans like a brake system, then could be major wear of the side tabs, and what is allowing the trans to slip out of gear.

Now it problem is not that the trans is slipping out of gear, but clutch is slipping instead, then time to pull the trans cover off the bike to pull the cam ramp and ***** to check them and the push rod bearing,



Then pull the primary cover to pull the clutch to check it and the basket as well,



Hell, who knows, and may have an aftermarket slipper clutch in play, and what you are feeling.
 
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Old Aug 25, 2024 | 03:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Dano523
Engine and trans are to go faster, not to be used for braking instead.
I completely disagree with this...

There is nothing wrong with using engine braking, experienced motorcycle riders have been doing it since manual transmissions were invented, with no adverse results (as long as it is done properly, of course).

The problem arises because many people have never learned how to properly down shift, they just close the throttle, pull in the clutch lever and jam the bike down into the lower gears, I see and hear it every time I ride with friends.

That is why Harley came out with the slipper clutch.
 

Last edited by Dan89FLSTC; Aug 25, 2024 at 03:10 PM.
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Old Aug 26, 2024 | 11:38 AM
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Thanks for all the help. Still dealing with the issue, and it’s starting to sound like I tore up the dog rings on 2 gear possibly from engine braking. The clutch engages and shifts through all gears smooth going up and down, just seems to slip out in second during engine breaking only. Soon as you give it any throttle, it picks up like normal. I did notice today on a test ride, sometimes downshifting into 2nd it jumps to neutral. This is a new symptom, happened twice on the way home. Just bought the bike for $8k, rode it 700 miles I guess too hard and now I’m looking at an expensive tranny rebuild.
 
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Old Aug 26, 2024 | 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Dano523
Engine and trans are to go faster, not to be used for braking instead.

So yes, if you are using the trans like a brake system, then could be major wear of the side tabs, and what is allowing the trans to slip out of gear.
I have no idea where you came up with that bull$h!t but it's dead wrong.
 
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