Not long ago on my 06 EG I noticed a different vibration on deceleration, so I started searching for the cause. My clutch needed replacing as well as the inner clutch hub, I did that but still that vibration remained so it was back into the primary and I replaced the chain, but that wasn't it either. I'd checked all the moving parts for run out with my dial indicator and all was good so I looked at the motor mounts and found the rear ones showed a lot of wear, I replaced them as well as the front mount. When I started the engine there was a violent shake at idle and a far worse vibe all through the rpm range. Backtracking, I put the oem front mount back in and all that harsh shaking and vibration went away but the original vib remained "However" that original little vibe was now consistent throughout the rpm range.
My assumption is that the vibe on deceleration was from the worn out rear mounts, but why a consistent little vibe now? I noticed that the new mounts seemed to be made from noticeably harder rubber, this would make sense that they would transfer more vibration (consistently now). As for the front mount and that nasty shake it caused, it too was way harder rubber.
Here's my question. Have any of you had a similar experience with Drag Specialties motor mounts?

 

I have. 08 FLHT. replaced it with stock and problem went away. Check center bolt torque values. Too tight is NOT your friend any more than too loose is.

 

Yes, I agree with that. I torqued to the shop maual specs in both cases. As I mentioned, from the moment the Drag Specialties front mount was in, it shook like crazy and when the OEM mount was re-installed, things are way smoother.

 

Back at the end of May I had posted a similar question...I don't know how to connect you to those posts but they are listed in my post history...I had tried the Glidepro mount and had terrible results. Someone on this forum pointed me to Barry Controls, they make mounts for different applications, our HD's being one of them! They have multiple mounts with different stiffness ratings. Look into that, I installed one of their mounts on my 2000 flhtpi and couldn't be happier. Great customer service and reasonably priced...highly recommend in checking them out.

 

Hate to say it, but with all the different designs of the old type front motor mount. HD never did perfect it.

The old style would just blow the bottom of the rubber out, inner steel sleeve would drop down, and motor would be shaking worse than if mounted in paint shaker.

So new design with rubber all the way up to top of sleeve to help the inner rod from blowing out, caused the motor to shake even worse, and still will have bottom of rubber blowing out just like the old design maybe a year'ish later than old style.

The screw up one, on the newer bikes, did away with that design to go to this isntead,
[img)https://images.imagessite.com/OEM_IM...HD24FLHP37.gif
But did away with th adjustable stablizer links, and with push pull of frame welding, and the links not adjustable, some of the bikes will put to one side when the drive line is not square to the frame isntead.
Note, problem of traming the drive line to frame, is to just install old style adjustable stablizers links to solve the problem.

As for rear rubber isolators, keep in mind that old evo day style had just a single hole for aligment pin, while laster ones did have slot since side plate adjuster pin are wider instead.
Early style,


Later style,
.

And if push comes to shove and you have later style that you are mounting into early style smaller alignment pin side plates, can lathe up some sleeves to press on to the smaller pins on the side plates to make them larger in OD, so rear isolators will index correctly on the smaller pin side plates.

Simply, two tricks to front mount mount,and the first is before you tighten the through bolt, start the bike to allow the motor to dance for a few seconds and shut the bike off, then adjust the front motor mount so through bolt is centered in channel, before you tighten the front mount bolts.
The second, is to play the "which motor mounts works best for you", since they will all fail in a few years and need to be replaced anyways, to see if motor moving more on mount works better, or if stiffer mount works better, but will drive more vibration in to the frame isntead.
Note, I ride enough yearly that only get a few years out of the motor mounts, and have went back and forth on the old and new design, as well as a few after markets as well. Which is best for me, may not be the best for you (engine movement, verse vibration to chassis with stiffer mount), so can't really say that I have found the perfect mount that is best for everyone and all case. But will state, the more power your cranking out of the motor, the stiffer mounts do work better to start with in those cases.

 

Go to novibration.com and get a barry control
507-1ns mount it has the Red&White dots on them.

 

IMPROVED FRONT RUBBER MOUNT
Service Bulletin: M-1182
See attached file.
This might not be the latest version of the bulletin.
Current motor mount part number is: 16207-79D

 

Thanks for the feedback everyone, this gives me a few more avenues to check out on this issue. I probably won't get down to tearring my bike appart untill the off season but when I have something to report on I'll share my findings!
Thanks!

 

Not much new to add other than after a week long trip to Cody late last season, that slight increase in vibration that remains is pretty much only noticeable on the footboards and a tiny bit throughout the frame of my bike. I suspect this is from the harder (Drag Specialties) swing arm mounts, and it's quite manageable. As for my apes, I just got my handlebar weights in the mail today and will eagerly await next riding season to try them out. I need all the help I can get with my old damaged hands from decades of chainsaw vibration. I'll check in next spring and share my findings.

 

I replaced the front motor mount on my 07 ElectraGlide with the 79D mount. I didn't notice much of the difference until I loosened everything back off and went for a short ride to allow the motor to find its position, and re-tightened. Much better.