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Much harder to do when the tire is on the motorcycle, especially on the rear tire.
I suspect most advocates have never actually tried it while on the side of the road.
In 40 years of riding, I've used my stop and go plugs 3 times on my bike. 20+ times on others bikes. and I also carry an air compressor and tie down straps.
I usually like to do a dry run on new things I might have to deal with on a road trip. So it is with the tire plug repair kit. I put a hole in an old tire, reamed it out and then attempted to insert a plug in it using a T handle tool. It was possible but lord livin' harry talk about difficult. I'm not sure I could do it by the side of the road. Am I missing something here? Should the tire be partially inflated? Any secrets gratefully accepted.
The trick to plugging a tire,be it a motorcycle tire or a car tire is to ream the hole sufficiently and over inflate the tire so the tread doesn't flex when inserting the plug. Used this method successfully in my 26 years as a GM dealer technician.
The trick to plugging a tire,be it a motorcycle tire or a car tire is to ream the hole sufficiently and over inflate the tire so the tread doesn't flex when inserting the plug. Used this method successfully in my 26 years as a GM dealer technician.
Having someone sit on the bike and hold the brake helps, too, especially on the rear tire as there isn't a whole lot of room under the fender. If it has a fancy long fender, push the bike up on a curb so that the tire is right at the edge - gives you more working room.
All good info here on plugging a tire. Myself, I use a product called Ride On, goggle Ride On tire sealant. Good information. It's noncorrosive to aluminum/cast wheels.
All good info here on plugging a tire. Myself, I use a product called Ride On, goggle Ride On tire sealant. Good information. It's noncorrosive to aluminum/cast wheels.
Ride-On is very good stuff and I've used it in 5 tires now.
A couple of tips for those new to Ride-On, it's a sealer / balancer gel that can be put in the tire during mounting or afterward, through the valve stem. The company makes a motorcycle specific and a passenger car version, they seem to be identical other than the color of the product and price.
The product can be reused, it gets darker from the carbon black in the tire but the viscosity remains unchanged. I change my own tires, so I scoop as much as I can from the old tire and top up the amount that can't be scooped out with new product - close counts on quantity - I don't balance my tires in any way other than the Ride-On. I have aftermarket TPMS sensors and it doesn't affect them at all. The liquid will not seal large holes but will slow leakage, it will seal small holes like nails and screws. Most of the time I have no idea that there is a puncture until I see a spot of the Ride-On on the ground or notice a dirty spot on the tire after a ride. I run the 'car' version, as it's cheaper and appears to be fundamentally identical when comparing side-by-side. I do carry a tire kit and add a string plug in any holes that Ride-On seals for peace of mind. It's nice to be able to wait until I get the bike up on the lift table to do that though.
Ream the hole very liberally. It seems counterintuitive but the hole needs to be big enough for the plug. Some swear by rubber cement as lube, I apply a generous amount of spit. A buddy of mine carries a tube of beeswax lip balm in his tire kit - not sure how well that'll work out but he swears by it.
Push the plug straight in and twist once before pulling the tool back out sharply.
Someone will tell me I'm wrong but that's worked for me for eons - even on thin sportbike tires.
Ha! I thought it was just me! Do what u gotta do right? I think I used hair gel the last time. Always frustrating because we have plenty of rubber cement at work but its never around when I need it. Big fan of Ride On here too! Never thought of reusing it, I guess it isn't gonna go bad.
About to do new tires on my SV1000S, probably just leave the current weights in place & add Ride On & see how she feels.
Last edited by Pantera99; Feb 4, 2025 at 11:19 AM.
Others on this thread have already said this but use Ride-On and leave the repair kit at home. Anything a repair kit could possibly fix you won't even be aware happened with Ride-On. It is seriously that good. If you have any doubts just check out this
BUT... you should not reuse it. Among other things the anti-corrosion compounds in the formula have a shelf life and diminish over time. Also, the aramids, the stronger-than-steel polymers used to seal the hole, are different between the car, motorcycle, military etc applications. Don't cut corners and use the right formula.
you should not reuse it. Among other things the anti-corrosion compounds in the formula have a shelf life and diminish over time. Also, the aramids, the stronger-than-steel polymers used to seal the hole, are different between the car, motorcycle, military etc applications. Don't cut corners and use the right formula.
Source?
Since we have a tire sealant expert among us, perhaps you could direct me to the formula I should use for the car tires on my bikes? Do they make a car-tire-on-a-motorcycle specific formula? Should I mix the two in some magical formula? Also, you say that the hole plugging fibers are different between the two types, is that because cars run over different size objects than motorcycles or the objects leave different size holes? Not in my experience.
Jest aside, I'm not falling for marketing hype, I bought, compared and used both products.They are either the same or close enough that the gel will stay where it's supposed to and the fibers will plug any holes. I honestly don't think the stuff cares if it's a car, truck, tractor, wheelbarrow or bike tire. The gel leaks out of the hole and the polymer bits plug it up.
If you were trying to plug a deflated tire I have no doubt it would be extremely difficult, air it up first. I've plugged hundred of tires and by far the easiest way is with the wheel off the vehicle and straddled between your legs with the puncture straight up at 12:00 so you can put a lot of force directly downward. On the bike is always going to be more difficult because you can't get that perfect angle of attack but it's still doable.
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