2010 Road King problem
Road Warrior
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,605
Likes: 82
From: nj
I have a 2011 flhp miles are low 8k. I bought the bike with 4K, I bought it from a friend which he bought it from a dealer with 700 miles the police got rid of there police bikes department. Is there any concern that I should be aware of. Thanks
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 14,158
Likes: 11,247
From: San Diego, CA
The only concern is that if it was outfitted for use on a Police Dept., how the decommissioning of the bike for civilian sale was done, could cause some electrical issues down the line...
For police use the bike will have a siren, a radio, and emergency lights, often running though a controller. In most states, a Police Bike cannot be sold to the general public with those items. When PD garage personnel (and some dealers) take these items off the bike for sale to civilians, they often just cut wires, leaving them unsealed and just bunched up out of the way... That can lead to issues down the line, or if you want to add any extras to the bike.
Thread Starter
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Novice
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 19
Likes: 6
From: New Zealand
Hi, last week nearing the end of a ride approx 60 miles I noticed both my hands were numb! Bars were high frequency vibrating and strange sound from left side of engine? Any ideas or has anyone had similar problem? Sound wasn't knocking... rather a high pitching sound almost like a super charger??? Road was smooth also....
Replaced compensator with SE Big Twin, new adjuster and obviously bearing and obviously oil etc.
5 months later the big clunk returns and I can't find neutral?
Back to shop, while waiting i Google what could be causing this and see that crankshaft excessive runout could be the culprit and crankshaft scissoring plus Timken bearings need to be installed all $$$$$
Anyway I asked mechanic to check runout measurement and he said it was 0.001"??? Seriously?? Bike is stage 1 with 75,000 plus ks.
I asked him to re check but does that 0.001" indicate a welded crank perfectly balanced? or i can't believe an oem crankshaft was that perfect.. also mechanic said he's putting stronger springs in compensator... thoughts?
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 14,158
Likes: 11,247
From: San Diego, CA
OK... turns out the bearing on the clutch shaft had begun to eat itself out causing damage to compensator. Mechanic said chain adjuster (auto) had been excessively tight.
Replaced compensator with SE Big Twin, new adjuster and obviously bearing and obviously oil etc.
5 months later the big clunk returns and I can't find neutral?
Back to shop, while waiting i Google what could be causing this and see that crankshaft excessive runout could be the culprit and crankshaft scissoring plus Timken bearings need to be installed all $$$$$
Anyway I asked mechanic to check runout measurement and he said it was 0.001"??? Seriously?? Bike is stage 1 with 75,000 plus ks.
I asked him to re check but does that 0.001" indicate a welded crank perfectly balanced? or i can't believe an oem crankshaft was that perfect.. also mechanic said he's putting stronger springs in compensator... thoughts?
That IS a good number for a Harley. On a bike with 75K miles, it strongly suggests the bike wasn't abused.
It appears your mechanic believes the clunk is from the comp?
He believes a new spring pack will fix the issue?
Those Big Twin comp kits come with new springs. I'm a little concerned/surprised that the comp spring pack has gone bad on a 5 month old Big Twin comp... How many miles have you put on it?
There is a procedure for checking the preload on the comp springs when they get noisy, at idle. A shim or two can be added to quiet the noise. That is the only issue I've learned of with the new style Big Twin Comp. It certainly took more than 5 months to need a spring shim...
Here's the procedure for checking the comp pre-load:
Thread Starter
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Novice
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 19
Likes: 6
From: New Zealand
I suppose the stories i heard of Harley TC crankshaft scissoring, the removal of the Timken bearings is possibly unique to the engine? I was told to expect runout over 0.005" or worse given 5 months after a brand new SE Big Twin compensator the heavy clunk at engine shutoff returns. How many other bike Marques produce flawed engineering like Harley? Had i done my research I definitely wouldn't have got the 2010 FLHR as the more reliable(?) compensator came 2011?
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 19,925
Likes: 8,027
From: poway
OK... turns out the bearing on the clutch shaft had begun to eat itself out causing damage to compensator. Mechanic said chain adjuster (auto) had been excessively tight.
Replaced compensator with SE Big Twin, new adjuster and obviously bearing and obviously oil etc.
5 months later the big clunk returns and I can't find neutral?
Back to shop, while waiting i Google what could be causing this and see that crankshaft excessive runout could be the culprit and crankshaft scissoring plus Timken bearings need to be installed all $$$$$
Anyway I asked mechanic to check runout measurement and he said it was 0.001"??? Seriously?? Bike is stage 1 with 75,000 plus ks.
I asked him to re check but does that 0.001" indicate a welded crank perfectly balanced? or i can't believe an oem crankshaft was that perfect.. also mechanic said he's putting stronger springs in compensator... thoughts?
Replaced compensator with SE Big Twin, new adjuster and obviously bearing and obviously oil etc.
5 months later the big clunk returns and I can't find neutral?
Back to shop, while waiting i Google what could be causing this and see that crankshaft excessive runout could be the culprit and crankshaft scissoring plus Timken bearings need to be installed all $$$$$
Anyway I asked mechanic to check runout measurement and he said it was 0.001"??? Seriously?? Bike is stage 1 with 75,000 plus ks.
I asked him to re check but does that 0.001" indicate a welded crank perfectly balanced? or i can't believe an oem crankshaft was that perfect.. also mechanic said he's putting stronger springs in compensator... thoughts?
Add: And you watch too much internet.
Thread Starter
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Novice
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 19
Likes: 6
From: New Zealand
You may be correct!!! However those thoughts ... well they have a mind of their own!!
Thread Starter
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Novice
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 19
Likes: 6
From: New Zealand
5 months ago the primary cover was removed because the chain tensioner (apparently) was too tight. This caused the clutch shaft bearing to disintegrate shedding metal bits in the oil that damaged the compensator... The 2010 type compensator was replaced with a brand new SE Big Twin, bearing and clutch piece replaced as was chain tensioner. I think it's safe to assume the oil would have been replaced then. Just recently it appeared the compensator wasn't working correctly and it's back in workshop getting stiffer springs and presumably new oil again.
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Tourer
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 357
Likes: 205
From: Eastern Washington USA
Finally got bike to mechanic... apparently the clutch bearing was providing the 'music' plus the compensator was not in good shape either... apparently a lot of metal in primary oil ... getting new bearing installed plus swapping compensator for Dark Horse Man o War... getting new lifters plus cam bearings... should be back couple of days depending how long to find compensator...
Yep, I chased an odd vibe problem in a 91 FLHS, it was the clutch hub bearing loose in the clutch shell. Steel bearing press fit into an aluminum shell with snap ring retainer isnt a great design.