So I have a 2000 Road King. I have been having an issue with my shifting from 2nd to 3rd getting false neutral on hard acceleration. I’ve adjusted the pawl a bunch of times but it has only gotten worse. I had a 2005 road king trans chilling in the garage so I decided it was time to swap out mine.

I did the full swap including the pawl sleeve since they changed the length. Everything is back together and tight and looks straight with plenty of clearance for the shift linkage. When I go to shift to second now it goes into neutral but not second. If I sit idling I can get it into second all the way to 5th, but as soon as I go to ride it only goes 1st to neutral. Anyone else have a similar issue? What were your remedies?

 

Kind of lost, since sounds like pawl hooks where worn, and really what needed to be replaced to start with.

As for pawl adjust, done in third gear, and again if pawl hooks are not worn, or nothing stopping the shifter from allowing the pawl to pull full directions, the should be rotating the shift drum all the way to next detent, and if shifter forks are fine, then should allow forks to shift gears correctly as well.
To add here, make sure that pawl adjuster screw has not been screwed in a wind too much, and is binding up something.

As for problems with quick shifts, most of the time is just the pawl detent/ spring that is a problem child, and although you can go to Bakers improved drum and detent system, on the 5 speeds, just need to change out the weak detent spring (and in some cases the detent if tip is worn) to solve the problems most of the time.

Pawl is 36, drum detent and spring are 35 and 39, and all can be changed out from the top of the trans.
If pawl will not center on its own when adjusting oblong cam pin 20 with trans in third, then make sure that pawl centering spring 37 is not broke.
Also, make sure that shifters can move all the way to allow the drum to rotate all the way, not not binding up on something like the floor boards, and you do have bolt 3 tight, so lever28 is not floppy on trans shift shaft 34.

https://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche...davidsonmc/326

Short of that, may have a problem with the gear set, if you did not swap the 5th gear that was with it, into the case at the same time as rest of swap.
Or,
do not have the clutch adjusted correctly/cam lob and detent ***** not in the correct position when you put the trans plate back on, and clutch is not fully disengaging with lever pull, to allow the clean trans gear change instead.

 

So I’ve done everything you suggested prior to replacing the gearset. The gearset I swapped in came from a bike that was operating and shifting perfectly, but was removed due to total loss. The gearset that was in my bike had rounded off dogs, due to I’m assuming misalignment for a long period of time and adjustment just was not fixing the shifting issue. The gearset I used was pulled from the original case along with all the internals, 5th gear included. The shift pawl and drum are also from the 05. I’ve adjusted the clutch but I’m going to try that again as I don’t think I adjusted at the primary.

 

Here’s what’s going on. Also there is no adjuster as the upgraded shifter pawl assembly only comes with a centered pin.

 

You just put another stock 5 speed tranny in? couldn't you have just rebuilt yours and replaced the springs? What I did on mine. Harley doesn't make some of those springs anymore.

 

Problem is easy to see, since your using the baker smooth shift kit (drum),

and need to use the Baker anti over shift ratchet pawl assembly with it,



While your in there, May as well ditch the pot metal shift lever to Baker truss style shifter levers, since even with the bolt tight, just a matter of time until the lever gets loose to the shaft again.


And with the amount of slop of pawl shifter shaft to trans housing sleeve now, even with new pawl assembly in place for that shift drum kit, replace it with new housing sleeve of going to have the same sloppy mess during shifts.

So to recap, trans lever is loose to pawl shaft now, may have to pull the lever to increase the slot to be able to tighten the bolt up to get it tight to the shaft,
pawl shaft to trans case sleeve/busing is a joke with sleeve way worn out/sleeve for the pawl shaft need to be replace in trans case, and need the pawl assembly that goes with that shift assembly as well.

Hence the factory pawl with the sold bolt non adjustee, can not drop front pawl down in front of pin at the same time back pawl drops down behind the pin Also, Notice when you pull the trans shift lever back forward to try to get front pawl hook to drop down in front of lever, rear pawl hook is just pulling back on the drum to move the drum as well

If you want to play the tweak game to try to get what you have to work (pawl hook distances and the Baker drum), without having to get new parts (after you replace the pawl shaft sleeve in the trans case), then get Baker on the phone to see what they have in ideas.



https://bakerdrivetrain.com/pages/contact


And got to ask, whats up with your socks since noticed then when watching your video????
Could you not find a matching pair that morning, since your right sock is down below your ankle and looks to be low cut tennis sock, while the left sock looks to be above ankle with logo isntead.
Hence maybe a secret prelude to why the trans pawl assembly in play, is not the correct one for the drum assembly in play..

 

The original gearset lost the ability to shift between 2-3. Most of the dogs where the gears mesh were rounded. I had a complete spare 5speed transmission. The shift pawl that was in my transmission was damaged where the adjuster screw adjusted the pawl position.

I knew the difference between my 2000 road king transmission and the 2005 was one of the primary bolts is about 1/4in off so I could not use the 05 case without an 02 and up inner primary, and then I would also need to update the swing arm connection point as the pivot shaft is a different size.

i took the gearset, the HARLEY shift drum and updated Harley shift pawl, and used decent looking shift forks( had to swap out one of the original 2000 with the 2005). I installed the updated length pawl sleeve and 05 pawl and Adjuster pawl centered pin into the 2000 case, installed the 5th gear from the 05 into the 2000 case. Checked all bearings, no flat spots, no bearing issues found at all. Installed new seals, installed the 05 gearset, new gaskets, flyid and reinstalled the primary. I then installed the 2005 Harley Shift drum. Pawl looked centered so I continued. Tested shifting and seemed alright on the stand(had to rock the tire to get all the gears to fall into place when shifting), went to test ride and will shift 1st to neutral but not to second. If in idling and shift up with more force it will go to second, but I’m using more force than before. I’m also using gear oil 85-140 lucus syn. I’ve never used heel shifting so I only have toe. And all shift linkage is tight with no slop just like prior to trans replacement.

and to answer your remark about the socks, that’s not me, but an older gentleman helping me out with using his space and table.

 

As stated, the pawl asssembly in play now, does not have enough room between its hooks in what is going to center as, to allow it to drop both sides down on the drum pegs.

Maybe you can tweak the none adjustable bolt (36 below) end to solve the problem so both pawl hooks can index to drop down both side when it centers, or may have to tweak the pawl hooks to make slight more room between them, so both hooks can drop down in place. Right now, even when you forward blip the trans lever to let the front hook drop in place behind the drum pin, the other pawl hook is slightly too tight to it pin on its side.

2005 5 speed trans, and notice the differences in the pawl assemblies between the older trans, and the newer trans, and may be the problem is only older style pawl assembly is being used for newer drum style drum now (read need to use a HD34972-02 pawl assembly for newer drum style)..

 

Look at the shift pawl.. It's hanging up on the edge of the shift drum.. The pawl doesn't settle down on the shift drum pins. I'd suspect that you pushed the shifter bushing in too far or it's a little too long for those cases..

My mistake the shifter is not going all the way into gear. You need to rock the rear tire..

Look at the shift pawl.. It's hanging up on the edge of the shift drum.. The pawl doesn't settle down on the shift drum pins. I'd suspect that you pushed the shifter bushing in too far or it's a little too long for those cases..

My mistake it's doing both..

 

when it’s off and I rock the rear tire it will shift through all gears, but when I go to ride it is not engaging the same.