Hello everyone.
2011 EG Ultra Limited
Can I disconnect the front ABS and keep the rear working?
After riding it 31,000 miles, I appreciate the elimination of non-lock up on the rear but prefer to modulate the front myself.
Thanks for the replies!

 

Stand by to get lectured on the "necessity" of ABS for the universe to function properly...

But to answer your question, I believe it's all or nothing with the ABS, but I'm not sure. I think if there is an issue with the ABS, it disengages front & rear.

You can experiment by disconnecting the front wheel ABS sensor and see what happens...?

 

Nope, nope, no lecturing from me! You obviously can do what you wish. However, I think you may be choosing the wrong wheel.

If you lock up the rear tire, and you're reasonably skilled and aware of what you're doing, you can certainly ride the skid to a safe stop. We've all done it!

However, if you lock up the front tire, and you're not a professional, you're down. Almost instantly.

Disconnecting the front wheel ABS wouldn't be prudent. Nope.

 

Hello all. Looking for some more opinions on how to disconnect the front ABS on a 2011 Ultra Limited.
Have a great Sunday!

 

You would need to isolate the front ABS off the control unit while keeping the rear line on control unit, plugging the front line holes on the control unit.

However, not recommended and you may get fault codes from the control unit and/or the ABS sensing bearing on the front.

I have seen videos of taking the whole ABS system out and bypassing it completely but not just one part of it.

 

I'm surprised it's still working after 14 years.
Mine's been out for 16 years.

 

After using ABS on my newer bikes it took awhile but I like it. Now I'm sold on it. I was out on one of my older that was new to me 99RK haling *** came up om a 90* turn hit the brakes and a oh **** moment started into a slide lucky it was in farm country and slid into a field, was ok. If I was on my bike with ABS that would have happened. Just Saying.

 

Darned if I know, and I kinda doubt anyone here knows for sure either.

In any case, download the wiring diagram and see how to unpin the ABS motor thingie so the front brake circuit is disabled. Then go ride and see what it does. By all means, try to lock the rear wheel and see if it locks.
Best case, it works for the rear and you ride around with a red light on the dash.
Worse case, the rear wheel locks and you know it didn't disable just the front brake control.

 

Good morning, everyone. Just a follow up on my original post. I had a slight pulsating on the rear brake that was not the ABS kicking in but had always thought the ABS was too sensitive even before the pulsating began.
I replaced the rotor, went to organic pads, (previously ran HH pads) and flushed the brake fluid system and now can report the rear brakes perform much better, more stopping power before I have to brake hard enough to activate the ABS.
I honestly believe the HH pads were too sensitive (grabby?) and the organic pads are the way to go on the rear. I still run HH on the front and it works well.
Thank you for all of your suggestions and replies.
Barron

 

I also use organic pads.
They have a better feel
Yes you have to replace them more often and there is brake dust. And you do have to hit them once before you really want to stop in a hard rain or coming out of the car wash.
But on my historic motorcycle the rotors are hard to find, virtually unavailable, I'd rather wear the pads than the rotors. Even on my newer bikes - I have never had to replace a rotor.