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I want to try the Rekluse APEX clutch with their billet clutch basket in my 2008 Street Glide. Bike has a 124" motor I built on the OEM cases. Currently I use a Barnett Scorpion with a Evolution Industries clutch basket. I need the green springs to hold the motor when at upper RPM's in 5th or 6th gear. That makes for a stout clutch lever pull, and my hands are getting weaker due to arthritis. The Rekluse clutch should solve that as they require less spring pressure to hold big motors.
I hoped to get some first hand feedback on the APEX clutch system. How you like it, what is it installed in, motor size, etc. Also if it's holding up with what ever miles you have on it now.
I have the Apex... had it put in when I put in a crate 135 into my '21 CVO UL. The bike is still stock because the engine is under warranty for 2 years, I don't know what HP or TQ is is making for certain because the dealership didn't put it on a dyno after installing it to my knowledge but I can tell you that even being stock, it runs like a scalded ape, I have a Thundermax that I'll most likely put in after warranty. With regard to the Rekluse, you can get two different springs: the red are more stiff than the silver and I am currently using all six silver and it is fine for my current engine power. You can use all silver, all red, or 3+3. You have to drill out the rivets on the stock basket to replace it. The pull on the clutch handle is very tame, you shouldn't have any issue whatsoever with it. The only thing that is a PITA is finding neutral with the engine running when you are at a dead stop - it's damn near impossible - you need to be rolling. I spoke to one of the guys at Rekluse about it and he said that was one of the trade-offs that they faced when building the system. I am currently using Rekluse oil in my primary and I might try fiddling with the oil level to see if that affects it or not. I only have about 1200 miles on it thusfar.
I have the Apex... had it put in when I put in a crate 135 into my '21 CVO UL. The bike is still stock because the engine is under warranty for 2 years, I don't know what HP or TQ is is making for certain because the dealership didn't put it on a dyno after installing it to my knowledge but I can tell you that even being stock, it runs like a scalded ape, I have a Thundermax that I'll most likely put in after warranty. With regard to the Rekluse, you can get two different springs: the red are more stiff than the silver and I am currently using all six silver and it is fine for my current engine power. You can use all silver, all red, or 3+3. You have to drill out the rivets on the stock basket to replace it. The pull on the clutch handle is very tame, you shouldn't have any issue whatsoever with it. The only thing that is a PITA is finding neutral with the engine running when you are at a dead stop - it's damn near impossible - you need to be rolling. I spoke to one of the guys at Rekluse about it and he said that was one of the trade-offs that they faced when building the system. I am currently using Rekluse oil in my primary and I might try fiddling with the oil level to see if that affects it or not. I only have about 1200 miles on it thusfar.
Thank you, I appreciate your feedback. The ability to get neutral at a stop is a concern that I have. I had heard that from another rider that has one. A typical HD clutch system with the clutch lever pulled in equates to about 0.005" space between the plates. With the Rekluse it will drop to about 0.0024", and it would be hard to adjust it so that it gives enough to completely release the plates. My guess is that ATF style lube may be helpful there. ATF is about a 15 weight or 20 weight, and most primary lubes are in the 30 weight to 40 weight. So it may help a little. Possible the Rekluse fluid is thinner, but I have no idea.
I want to try the Rekluse APEX clutch with their billet clutch basket in my 2008 Street Glide. Bike has a 124" motor I built on the OEM cases. Currently I use a Barnett Scorpion with a Evolution Industries clutch basket. I need the green springs to hold the motor when at upper RPM's in 5th or 6th gear. That makes for a stout clutch lever pull, and my hands are getting weaker due to arthritis. The Rekluse clutch should solve that as they require less spring pressure to hold big motors.
I hoped to get some first hand feedback on the APEX clutch system. How you like it, what is it installed in, motor size, etc. Also if it's holding up with what ever miles you have on it now.
Thanks
If your scorpion has the judder spring, remove the judder spring and spacer from the scorpion and use a easy boy arm (Mueller if you want a lighter wallet) on the clutch release.
If your scorpion has the judder spring, remove the judder spring and spacer from the scorpion and use a easy boy arm (Mueller if you want a lighter wallet) on the clutch release.
I was trying to keep the clutch mechanisms in OEM configuration. But I agree that a Mueller will reduce lever pull.
Removing the spring and spacer, I can see that it may help with giving an aid to allow the Meuller to have more plate spacing to grab neutral. I may have to go that route first. I do like the Scorpion, it's a great clutch. Just the lever pull is getting to be a bit harder as I age.
Thank you, I appreciate your feedback. The ability to get neutral at a stop is a concern that I have. I had heard that from another rider that has one. A typical HD clutch system with the clutch lever pulled in equates to about 0.005" space between the plates. With the Rekluse it will drop to about 0.0024", and it would be hard to adjust it so that it gives enough to completely release the plates. My guess is that ATF style lube may be helpful there. ATF is about a 15 weight or 20 weight, and most primary lubes are in the 30 weight to 40 weight. So it may help a little. Possible the Rekluse fluid is thinner, but I have no idea.
ATF might be worth a shot. Regardless of the neutral issue, I do like the clutch, it is fine but to be fair, the Harley clutch was fine too. I got the APEX because at the time (and still), I don't know where my HP/TQ number will end up after I lose the SE tuner and a trusted wrench encouraged me to go with the Rekluse because of it's robust nature for big bore engines. The workaround I have mostly gotten used to is simply finding neutral as I am rolling to a stop and maybe blipping the throttle if needed.
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Rekluse APEX Clutch System
