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Interesting fact that codes are related to the switches which are "opposite each other" - "TC" switch is leftmost and "Run/Stop" is rightmost but same location on the controls. Do you still have your old bars (with harnesses), if so you can put them back on and see if the problem goes away.
Well, to make a long story short. I am attributing my ECM and other issues to my changing my handlebars. After cleaning all connections, pulling the front wheel to check out the ABS sensor and putting it all back together, I started the bike and when I turned the bars to a sharp right, The check engine light came back on with a couple other codes. I was thinking that seeing it happened when making a sharp right-hand turn, it was still a wiring issue. I rerouted all the wires from the new handlebars and used VERY FEWER wire ties. It has not happened since so HOPEFULLY? Thanks for all the leads. Between reading these and searching on the interned, they all led me closer to the problems for all the leads
Well, to make a long story short. I am attributing my ECM and other issues to my changing my handlebars. After cleaning all connections, pulling the front wheel to check out the ABS sensor and putting it all back together, I started the bike and when I turned the bars to a sharp right, The check engine light came back on with a couple other codes. I was thinking that seeing it happened when making a sharp right-hand turn, it was still a wiring issue. I rerouted all the wires from the new handlebars and used VERY FEWER wire ties. It has not happened since so HOPEFULLY? Thanks for all the leads. Between reading these and searching on the interned, they all led me closer to the problems for all the leads
Thanks for the followup ! Prewired bars aren't guaranteed to be problem free.
My 23 Road King has gone into limp mode a couple times. For a quick band aid, to get home, removing the big fuse, then re-installing it seems to reset the throttle problem. Each time this happened, codes for front and rear ABS sensors were set. At the moment, my theory is that the ABS codes were caused by an electrical glitch, but they did not cause the glitch. Early on, I changed the obnoxious factory clutch cable for the previous style last used on a '16 or '17 vintage, before the hydraulic fiasco. The factory cable was intricately routed inside the headlight nacelle. I had to disassemble the nacelle and disconnect some wiring to get the old cable out. The last time it went into limp mode, I cleaned each of those plugs, so far so good. The ABS works flawlessly until the next limp mode happens. The moral of the story is that ABS sensor codes MAY be set by a momentary electrical interruption, but still have no actual failure. Time will tell.
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