not to start a debate on who or what should pay, just looking for pointers to do a install myself.. I never had my back tire off and I am not thrilled with the prospect of screwing it up
Hearing its simple.. I have both a table lift and a M/C jack.. Tools aplenty but no new torque wrench.. Is it mandatory to have???Any answers would help
I;m in Staten island New York and could feed anyone willing to help
I do have a BBQ and access to beer
and most imprtant I have a 07 Ultra
Thanks to all
Bushy

 

I think you'll definitely need a torque wrench to make sure everything is back to factory snug...

 

did it last night and the new torque wrench got used to torque the bowl onto the wheel and the axle nut as specified in the directions and manual.
Is your bearing prepressed? That was the only slowdown I had. I tried the heat and freeze game and it almost didn't work...but in the end I am all good.
You probably will need a second person to insert the axle while you are holding everything aligned while it is slid back in place.

 

yes I went for the $12 bucks and had the bearing pressed in

 

Just jack the bike up on the bike jack. Used a floor jack to hold the rear tire up while pulling the axle and to lower the tire out from under the fender, and then also do the same for reinstall. Makes things a whole lot easier. I highly recommend that you get a torque wrench..

 

The service manual will fill-inthe gapsin theinstructions. Yes, you should use a torque wrench, especially for the compensator. You are cranking a steel bolt into an aluminum axle and it's very easy to go too far.

It's a very easy install. With that, my hang-ups were:

1. Difficulty pulling the wheel out and away from the brake caliper. Make sure the belt is clear from the pulley and tilt the bottom of the wheel to thecaliper side. This will give clearance for the caliper to be lifted off the brake rotor and clear the tire.
2. The spacers supplied w/ the kit are only used on the pulley side. Use the stock spacer on thebrake sidewhen re-installing wheel.

 

YOU DONT AND cannot use the original original BIG spacer on the pulley side...You use the supplied small spacer that comes with the kit . on the other side u use the original factory spacer.. ez job.. did it last nite ... YOU need a talk wrench or if not available a torque wrench will work!65 FT LBS
and a frame lift makes it real ez! u will tilt the wheel (bottom) towards the brake caliper to get thecaliper off....thats the only sorta tricky part.. but u can do it.. just try...and take ur time ..Good luck Nick NY NY

 

repeat have the bearing pressed in at a shop

 

Yes, you'll need a torque wrench (hub and axle bolts). Harbor Freight has them on sale for $12 (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...Itemnumber=239), and despite the low price is an excellent tool. A floor jack to hold the wheel when the axle is being removed and inserted is very helpful. This is from memory, so I hope I haven't left out a step!

1. After jacking bike up high with bike jack, place floor jack under wheel to support it. Don't apply pressure to tire, but just where the tire touches the jack.

2. Remove axle clip and loosen axle nut with 36mm tool (socket, etc.). Loosen belt by rotating axle bolt from left side. The socket may not clear muffler for complete removal of nut, and if not use the 36mm wrench in the HD tool kit or a large crescent wrench. Making sure the wheel is supported, drive the axle out with a hammer and rod (long 3/8" or 1/2" ratchet extension works well). On your Ultra you will likely need to remove the left muffler and left saddlebag support for the axle to clear when removed. On my SG I only had to remove the latter since my shocks are shorter. I did have to loosen the rear muffler supports, however.

3. Remove belt from the rear pulley, letting it hang to the left (outside) of the pulley.

4. Carefully lower the wheel with the floor jack, taking note of the position of the right-side spacer, which will likely fall out. Large left-side spacer will not be re-used.
Also take note of the position of each cam washer, as they can be erroneously inserted backwards when re-installing axle. Ask me how I know this.

5. Follow IDS instructions and install IDS hub to wheel and rubber bumpers into new pulley. Torque bolts to specs.

6. Tie new pulley to wheel temporarily with string, bungees, or whatever. When raising wheel into wheel-well the pulley will likely snag, and when it does will pull out of the new hub. I didn't didn't tie it down and it was a hassle. Someone else suggested using large wire ties, or you could tie two or more medium wire-ties together. You'd probably need to tie it in two opposite locations (top and bottom or fore and aft)

7. Before raising wheel, move brake-caliper housing out of the way. Once the wheel is in place, position the housing back into the caliper/pads on top and as a right-side spacer on the bottom. See edit below about the caliper bumper.

8. Right-side spacers are re-used, but the left has new hardware (see IDS instructions). The old large left spacer is not re-used. Smear some anti-sieze compound on axle, although it may already have plenty if the bike is new like yours and mine. Insert left cam washer on axle. Line up wheel, spacers, pulley, and swingarm as well as possible, then carefully position and drive the axle back into place. Replace left muffler and support, and remove ties on pulley.

9. Make sure both cam washers are in their proper positions, tighten axle nut to about 20 ft. lbs., and tighten belt from bolt end of axle to specs. Torque axle nut to ~95 ft. lbs. and reinsert clip on right side.

Double check everything and make sure wheel rotates freely. Apply rear brake a few times to re-position pads.

Now, somebody tell me what I left out! There must be something.

Edit (11/15/07): Yes, there is something important I left out! On the brake caliper is a bumper that should fit in a groove below the swingarm weldment anchor. Looking from below, look at the swingarm where the caliper attaches and you'll see a thin strand of rubber approx. 3/4" long pointing toward the wheel. Along t

 

Bikes with 3/4" axles are torqued to 65 ft. lbs., but the 1"-axles are 95 ft. lbs. The OP has an '07, which has the big axles.