Lost Jug!!
Road Master
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 892
Likes: 0
From: Central, IN
RE: Lost Jug!!
This happened to me. It was a broken wire to the front injector inside the loom under the tank. It would make contact at idle and break the circuit at speed. Took a few hours to track down. Good luck.
Chris
[IMG]local://upfiles/1995/0B7B08E7C9914C5C934BA3E9CE8F8801.jpg[/IMG]
Chris
[IMG]local://upfiles/1995/0B7B08E7C9914C5C934BA3E9CE8F8801.jpg[/IMG]
Banned
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 14,496
Likes: 156
From:
RE: Lost Jug!!
ORIGINAL: spartns
This happened to me. It was a broken wire to the front injector inside the loom under the tank. It would make contact at idle and break the circuit at speed. Took a few hours to track down. Good luck.
Chris
[IMG]local://upfiles/1995/0B7B08E7C9914C5C934BA3E9CE8F8801.jpg[/IMG]
This happened to me. It was a broken wire to the front injector inside the loom under the tank. It would make contact at idle and break the circuit at speed. Took a few hours to track down. Good luck.
Chris
[IMG]local://upfiles/1995/0B7B08E7C9914C5C934BA3E9CE8F8801.jpg[/IMG]
You said you can get it to run? Start it up and move the harness to the front injector around a bit and see if it kicks in and fires up the front cylinder. If you find this to be the problem, remove the factory tie wrap and give the harness a bit more room to move with a new tie wrap placed back further away from the injector, and repair the break in the wire.
Invoking the diagnostic codes
NOTE
The Check Engine Lamp Diagnostics will not indicate the existence of historic trouble codes- only current codes are transmitted .
Use of check engine lamp diagnostics assumes that the SCANALYZER is not available.
1. To activate the diagnostic feature of the Check Engine Lamp, proceed as follows:
a. Turn the Ignition/Light Key Switch to IGNITION for three seconds (one second pause after the fuel pump
stops running), and then turn switch back to the OFF (FLHTC/U-I, FLTR-I) or LOCK (FLHR/C-I)
position for three seconds.
b. Repeat the instructions under step 1a. above.
c. Turn the Ignition/Light Key Switch to IGNITION and wait approximately eight seconds for the Check
Engine Lamp to start flashing.
2. All trouble codes are sent out as a series of flashes.
Road Captain
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 708
Likes: 0
From:
RE: Lost Jug!!
ORIGINAL: Nomad2day
Talk about some killer advise...This place rocks...
I also run a FI bike and will remember this. I will take a look at mine on the wraps...
Neil
Talk about some killer advise...This place rocks...
I also run a FI bike and will remember this. I will take a look at mine on the wraps...
Neil
Kurt
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 16,125
Likes: 24
From: Linden New Jersey
RE: Lost Jug!!
ORIGINAL: TCSTD
Here's some good advice, the tie wraps on the baggers were put on to tight from the factory and caused the wire inside of the insulation on the front injector to break while leaving the insulation on the wire intact. It usually hapens within an inch or so from the injector.The rubber mounted motor moves so much and the wire doesn't, check there before anywhere else Mike, it was a pretty common thing, see if you come up with a code #24 "Front cylinder combustion intermittent "
You said you can get it to run? Start it up and move the harness to the front injector around a bit and see if it kicks in and fires up the front cylinder. If you find this to be the problem, remove the factory tie wrap and give the harness a bit more room to move with a new tie wrap placed back further away from the injector, and repair the break in the wire.
Invoking the diagnostic codes
NOTE
The Check Engine Lamp Diagnostics will not indicate the existence of historic trouble codes- only current codes are transmitted .
Use of check engine lamp diagnostics assumes that the SCANALYZER is not available.
1. To activate the diagnostic feature of the Check Engine Lamp, proceed as follows:
a. Turn the Ignition/Light Key Switch to IGNITION for three seconds (one second pause after the fuel pump
stops running), and then turn switch back to the OFF (FLHTC/U-I, FLTR-I) or LOCK (FLHR/C-I)
position for three seconds.
b. Repeat the instructions under step 1a. above.
c. Turn the Ignition/Light Key Switch to IGNITION and wait approximately eight seconds for the Check
Engine Lamp to start flashing.
2. All trouble codes are sent out as a series of flashes.
ORIGINAL: spartns
This happened to me. It was a broken wire to the front injector inside the loom under the tank. It would make contact at idle and break the circuit at speed. Took a few hours to track down. Good luck.
Chris
[IMG]local://upfiles/1995/0B7B08E7C9914C5C934BA3E9CE8F8801.jpg[/IMG]
This happened to me. It was a broken wire to the front injector inside the loom under the tank. It would make contact at idle and break the circuit at speed. Took a few hours to track down. Good luck.
Chris
[IMG]local://upfiles/1995/0B7B08E7C9914C5C934BA3E9CE8F8801.jpg[/IMG]
You said you can get it to run? Start it up and move the harness to the front injector around a bit and see if it kicks in and fires up the front cylinder. If you find this to be the problem, remove the factory tie wrap and give the harness a bit more room to move with a new tie wrap placed back further away from the injector, and repair the break in the wire.
Invoking the diagnostic codes
NOTE
The Check Engine Lamp Diagnostics will not indicate the existence of historic trouble codes- only current codes are transmitted .
Use of check engine lamp diagnostics assumes that the SCANALYZER is not available.
1. To activate the diagnostic feature of the Check Engine Lamp, proceed as follows:
a. Turn the Ignition/Light Key Switch to IGNITION for three seconds (one second pause after the fuel pump
stops running), and then turn switch back to the OFF (FLHTC/U-I, FLTR-I) or LOCK (FLHR/C-I)
position for three seconds.
b. Repeat the instructions under step 1a. above.
c. Turn the Ignition/Light Key Switch to IGNITION and wait approximately eight seconds for the Check
Engine Lamp to start flashing.
2. All trouble codes are sent out as a series of flashes.
matter of fact, the printer is humming along right now. Then it will be stapled inside the garage on the wall.
Mike, Good Luck getting your bike back running like she should be
Banned
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 14,496
Likes: 156
From:
RE: Lost Jug!!
Bruce
You'll find more wallpaper in the DIY section like this too
https://www.hdforums.com/forumid_241/tt.htm
There are different proceedures for different year bikes, they are listed in the DIY section under fuel injection group.
You'll find more wallpaper in the DIY section like this too
https://www.hdforums.com/forumid_241/tt.htm
There are different proceedures for different year bikes, they are listed in the DIY section under fuel injection group.
Road Master
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 892
Likes: 0
From: Central, IN
RE: Lost Jug!!
TC is right on. My wire broke at the connector to the injector. Little tiny thing. My loom is now secure but not as tight.
Chris
[IMG]local://upfiles/1995/401A69793CED4EA8B04EB5B6C7AC2E04.jpg[/IMG]
Chris
[IMG]local://upfiles/1995/401A69793CED4EA8B04EB5B6C7AC2E04.jpg[/IMG]
Thread Starter
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Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 7,954
Likes: 9
From: jacksonville, nc
RE: Lost Jug!!
well for those wanting to know what happened to my jug, turned out to be the powercommander. i changed injectors to the se red injectors, and the coil for a just in case, still wouldnt hit a lick on the rear jug. disconnected the pc and she fired right up. the reason i added a power commander is like the rest of us i wanted to get rid of that falking popping and snapping, since i changed the injectors, it hasnt poped at all not between shifts and not when i let off the throttle. im as happy as a pic in sh*t! it does have an idle issue and im going to try macs setting the idle in the diy a try. im going to wait till i get in touch with dynojet before i slam thier product to death, but as it stands iim disappointed in thier stuff. ill update ya when i hear from dynojet