I added a pair of Rush 2.5 slip-ons and got rid of the wimpy stock pipes a while back. I had two dealerships tell me that I "probably" wouldn't need to have my EFI re-mapped. Of course both of them were full of $h*t...

I've got a list of things that I want to do to my bike although when I bought it I thought it had everything I wanted on it. The more time I spend on this forum however the more things I come up with that my bike "needs".

She really did need the pipes. But of course after riding her a while and encountering a lot of decel popping and backfireI realized that now she really does need to be re-mapped and what with all the confidence the dealers have already instilled in my mind they are the last ones I want to have working on her. Both had told me that she "probably"wouldn't need to be re-mapped but the decel popping and backfire, although somewhat manageable, was still very obnoxious. It was like listening to someone play a guitar with one string out of tune. They'd be playing along and sound great and then WANGthey hit a sour spot! My pipe would be sounding great and then POW! It was like someone firing a cheap snub-nosed 32.

I'd already been looking at aftermarket fuel management systems and I'd 'bout decided to go with the SERT and pick it up from Zanotti's since you can get anything in the HD catalog from them for about 20% off list. Then I came across the Thundermax.

The more I read about it the more I realized that it was the best way to go but the price was pretty steep. So I found it at Eastern Performance for six somethin'... under seven hundred bux with shipping and saved about $300.

Installation was not bad but there were a couple of places where you can have issues. First, I set up a computer in the garage. I don't have laptops but have an abundance of computer and computer parts lying around. Then I went to work on the install.

The first thing you do is take out the stock ECM. Shouldn't be bad right? Only two small bolts. The instructions from Zipper's tells you that they are held in place with a tread locking compound and can be extremely difficult to get out. The first one came out easily but the second one was a real problem. What you have is a bolt threaded into a brass sleeve that is inserted into a plastic housing. I don't know why in the he!! HD can make such a simple thing so difficult. I felt like the lock tite on the threads was completely unnecessary. What can happen and did with me was the brass insert slips in the plastic housing and you can turn all day and it will never come out.

I took the housing off and tried to put it in a vise to clamp down on it and hold the insert and keep it from spinning but that didn't work. The ECM carriage is shaped in such a way that there is no really good way to get a hold of it with anything.

I tried using a small drill bit to drill each side of the bottom of the insert so that I could get a flat tipped screw driver in there to hold it but that was a dismal failure. Because the thing is made of plasticI figured that heating it up was not a goodoption. I finally decided to go to the dealership and buy another ECM carriage. They were $15 but were not in stock at either dealership and told me it would take 7 to 10 days to get one in. I was not happy.

[font=arial]I was about to walk outwhen I asked the counter guy if he'd take it

 

The forum is officially my most expensive habitaccording to my bank account, my old gun habit looks cheap now,wondering why the wife keeps asking to go shooting, ha, no time working, or riding the bike.

On that note I will say the D&D Fatcat2-1 will give you 10more ponies,10 lbs TQ and less decell problems.

Zippers 103 build looks pretty good , fits the TMAT and 2-1 exhaust fine.

Just something to think about.

 

I had the same problem with my screw. I didn't read the instructions first. I think it says use some carb cleaner or put a drill to the end opf the screw to heat it up. Anyway, I ruined my carriage by the time I finally got the screw out but I rigged it good enouigh to get it back together. I didn't even call to check on the price on the part. I figured they didn't have one in stock anyway. T.

 

...and this is exactly why I suggested on this Forum about a year or so ago (and again about a month ago when a similar thread came up) that everybody ought to go out and remove those very screws while you still can, (whether you think you need to or not) and put a dab of anti-seize on 'em for the day that you do.
Mine were still OK when I had to pull them to mount a PCIII some time ago, but I could see that window of opportunity closing real fast at the time.
If I recall, the screw is aluminum and the nut is brass in plastic. What you get is some oxidation that sort of 'welds' the one into the other. The plastic mount gives up before you can apply enough force to break them loose. Poor design.


CN

 

thanks for the post. Ive been looking at the Tmax for a while now but funds were low. I think im going to do my upgrades in parts. Tmax then true duals. When I put the tmax on with stock set up will it be a problem adjusting 4 or 5 months later when I get my new exhaust?

 

I found it a good idea to change the pipes and add the Tmax at the same time.
That way you can install the new O2s in the head pipes when they go on.
I do know that money my be a factor.
Shortleg[Dave]

 

Currently installing a Tmax, K&N and BUB7 pipes on my 07 Ultra. Followed advice on forum and didn't have a problem with the ECMor O2 sensor removal. Snap-on sells a 22mm slotted socket for about $40, that works great (cheapest one I could find). The pipe install has been something different. Pipes off E-bay for $600, (saved at least $300) complete with a bunch of small scratches on right muffler endand for that kind of money I will live with them or flip-em. Feel like E-mailing them that their packaging sucks. Instructions were good but for some reason the left muffler clamp wouldn't friggin fit, screw was to short. Getting ready to install the Tmax and figure the closest Map would be 393. I will put anti-seize on the ECM screws. If anybody is running this configuration and has any tips I sure could use them.

 

Why didnt you just leave the stock ecm in? Just leave it there unplugged. You will need to reinstall it when going in for warranty work.

 

Tmax goes where the stock ECM is.
That,s why it was not left in.
SWhortleg[Dave]

 

Hey Austin- TMax firmware 4.5 has a fix for decel popping. Lots cheaper than new head pipes and it works well.