Clutch Cable Change
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Road Captain
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 610
Likes: 1
From: New Jersey
Clutch Cable Change
I am into my winter project. Upgrading my RK standard with Wild1 508 handlebars. While I have the front end apart I figure I might as well swap the cables over to braided ss. The only one that has me a little intimidated is replacing the clutch cable. I was unable to find anything on this in the 'How To' forum. I do have a service manual. Anybody have any tips or advice on this? Thanks Much and Merry Christmas.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 4,307
Likes: 9,428
From: Twin Cities Minnesota
RE: Clutch Cable Change
No easy shortcuts here...good time to change to chrome side cover or clutch easy pull assy. as long as cover is off. It would be best to have manual handy for cluch adjustment if you haven't done it before.[sm=icon_cheers.gif]
Road Master
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 759
Likes: 0
From:
RE: Clutch Cable Change
It's really not all that tuff just intimidating is all. You have to pull the pipes and tranny side plate so it seems tuff. As far as the adjustment goes just make sure you have enough but not to much free play in your lever. I have done it several times on my bikes and on my buddies bike's.
KB
KB
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Road Captain
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 610
Likes: 1
From: New Jersey
RE: Clutch Cable Change
Thanks. Am I correct in that I need 1/16 - 1/8" free play at the handle, by adjusting the clutch cable, but I should not have to do any adjustments to the clutch itself?
Banned
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 14,496
Likes: 156
From:
RE: Clutch Cable Change
With the installation of new cables, there should be no need to adjust the clutch itself if the clutch was OK before hand. You need the 1/8 to 1/16 at the handle after you are done which is gotten by the adjustment in the cable itself. Really easy to do.
Drain the trans fluid first so it doesn't get messy. The cable change requires removal of the trans side cover (6- 1/4 " bolts) If you cut the short end of the allen wrench down just long enough to seat in the bolt head, you can remove the trans end cover without removing the exhaust by breaking them loose and threading them out by hand. Leave them in the cover and just lift the cover off and up over the exhaust. You can then see the cable end and how it attaches inside the cover. You may be able to unhook it from the ball ramp if you disconnect the upper end first from the handle with the extra slack in the cable. To do this you remove the "c" clip on the underside of the handle perch that holds the pivot pin for the handle in , remove the pivot pin and slide the handle out of the perch after you give it all the slack in the cable adjuster. You'll see the slot in the perch where you slip the cable through to remove the cable from the handle. Replace the clutch cable with the replacement fastenings and routing it the same way as it was previously and grease up the handle pivot pin when reinstalling. Screw the cable end with the "O" ring on it back into the trans end cover like the old one was. Replace the trans fluid after you get it buttoned up and adjust the cable free play as stated above. You can usually get away with reusing the trans cover gasket if the bike is fairly new and hasn't been apart before. It may be a good idea to lube the new cable when you install it being it is all apart now.
I think this covers it but a factory manual would be a great investment if you don't have one.
Being you did the search first, this is now in the DIY forum too
Drain the trans fluid first so it doesn't get messy. The cable change requires removal of the trans side cover (6- 1/4 " bolts) If you cut the short end of the allen wrench down just long enough to seat in the bolt head, you can remove the trans end cover without removing the exhaust by breaking them loose and threading them out by hand. Leave them in the cover and just lift the cover off and up over the exhaust. You can then see the cable end and how it attaches inside the cover. You may be able to unhook it from the ball ramp if you disconnect the upper end first from the handle with the extra slack in the cable. To do this you remove the "c" clip on the underside of the handle perch that holds the pivot pin for the handle in , remove the pivot pin and slide the handle out of the perch after you give it all the slack in the cable adjuster. You'll see the slot in the perch where you slip the cable through to remove the cable from the handle. Replace the clutch cable with the replacement fastenings and routing it the same way as it was previously and grease up the handle pivot pin when reinstalling. Screw the cable end with the "O" ring on it back into the trans end cover like the old one was. Replace the trans fluid after you get it buttoned up and adjust the cable free play as stated above. You can usually get away with reusing the trans cover gasket if the bike is fairly new and hasn't been apart before. It may be a good idea to lube the new cable when you install it being it is all apart now.
I think this covers it but a factory manual would be a great investment if you don't have one.
Being you did the search first, this is now in the DIY forum too
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Road Captain
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 610
Likes: 1
From: New Jersey
RE: Clutch Cable Change
Thanks for your help. You guys in this forum are awesome. I have only been a Harley owner for a bout 1/2 year, but have already learned so much from you. Much appreciated.
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 3,183
Likes: 836
From: KMHT KFMY
RE: Clutch Cable Change
I just put the order in for my HD guy to put a hydraulic clutch master and slave setup in my FLHTP.
I just have too many bad memories of clutch cables binding, etc. Besides the rice bike has hydraulic so that's what I am used to .
I hear the hydraulic clutch setup that HD uses in the VRSC is sweet.
parts are around 360, plus labor.
Saw it in the Drag Specialties catalog.....
http://www.partsmag.com/0501/New-Pro...ucts-0501.html
I just have too many bad memories of clutch cables binding, etc. Besides the rice bike has hydraulic so that's what I am used to .
I hear the hydraulic clutch setup that HD uses in the VRSC is sweet.
parts are around 360, plus labor.
Saw it in the Drag Specialties catalog.....
http://www.partsmag.com/0501/New-Pro...ucts-0501.html
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Road Warrior
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,296
Likes: 1
From:
RE: Clutch Cable Change
ORIGINAL: Neggy ZRXOA 5248
I just put the order in for my HD guy to put a hydraulic clutch master and slave setup in my FLHTP.
I just have too many bad memories of clutch cables binding, etc. Besides the rice bike has hydraulic so that's what I am used to .
I hear the hydraulic clutch setup that HD uses in the VRSC is sweet.
parts are around 360, plus labor.
Saw it in the Drag Specialties catalog.....
http://www.partsmag.com/0501/New-Pro...ucts-0501.html
I just put the order in for my HD guy to put a hydraulic clutch master and slave setup in my FLHTP.
I just have too many bad memories of clutch cables binding, etc. Besides the rice bike has hydraulic so that's what I am used to .
I hear the hydraulic clutch setup that HD uses in the VRSC is sweet.
parts are around 360, plus labor.
Saw it in the Drag Specialties catalog.....
http://www.partsmag.com/0501/New-Pro...ucts-0501.html
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