Thanks! Mine already has air shocks I just want to add a gauge, compressor, and up/down valve and switch so I can adjust pressures on the fly.

When I get the pressure right for me, it's too soft when the wife hops on the back. I hate having to change pressure in the garage and then be stuck there.

Thanks for that link, I have a feeling I will find my answer somewhere in there!

 

Rear break pedal any body know if they make a pedal for the 14's that is lower or pushed forward Im 6;2 and i have to raise my leg way up to hit it i have the limited.

 

Changing Handlebars is an easy DIY - know that with new bars, a rough formula to follow is to measure the increased heigth + 1/2 the increased pullback that the new bars will give you. This amount will be very close to how much additional cable and brake line that you may need. However, the best method is to fit the new bars to the motorcycle and then make the increased length determinations, if needed at all. Also, Additionally, make sure to allow room for your new bars to clear your gas tank on full lock turn.

 

I am doing my own little garage door opener install. I will post pics once it is done. I also got the HD tour pak organizer. Rather than use the sticky type, I drilled holes through the backing. Went to the local hardwire store and got 2 longer bolts. I used the longer bolts on the 2 holes closer to the passenger, the stock bolts worked fine for the back 2 holes. This gives it much more strength. I'll post pics if anyone is interested.

 

So, after having hauled my EG and two coworkers bikes to Florida back in September, I quickly realized that there is no good place to hook tie downs on the back of a bagger. So after checking the thread size of the bolt for the passenger pegs and a quick Bing search (**** on that military hating, gun grabber supporting google) I found eye bolts of the correct thread size on amazon, and added them to some other crap I was ordering anyway. Haven't used em yet, but don't expect any problems.

 

Link? size? more info my friend.

 

Had to go back and check since my memory failed my as I was typing last night.
3/8-16 is the thread size. The frame is only 3/8 thick where the peg bolt goes through, so you don't need anything very long. I have no contact with the primary cover but YMMV.

 

thanks soniccbr ....

 

OK, after reviewing others mods for the GDO, I came up with this easy one. It works using a standard Genie 12v. key-chain transmitter that is wired to work off the bikes hi-beam wire. The transmitter is wired to allow the microswitch to always be "closed" (like it is always pressed), and when you flip on the hi-beam, it supplies 12v. to the transmitter. Voila, open garage door!

The pictures show the transmitter, and how the microswitch is closed by soldering a wire between its' 2 posts, closing the circuit. A red wire is connected to the " + " side where the battery went. This will then connect to the hi-beam white wire. A black wire is connected to the " - " side if the battery post, and will connect to ground.

I drilled a small hole in the transmitter cover for exit of the red/black wires, since I decided to retain the plastic cover for protection.

Not shown, I simply inserted the transmitter inside a small zip-loc, slightly bigger that the transmitter, then slid all that inside another zip-loc for double protection. The zip-loc was sealed & electricians tape went over the top for added water proofing. I testes the unit by touching the exposed wires to the transmitter's 12v. battery, and all worked OK.

Mounting in the bike, a 2012 Road King, was easy. I simply removed the headlight & detached the 3 prong receptacle. You can see the white hi-beam wire, and the black ground wire coming out the back of the receptacle. This particular one has a top that can be lifted up to expose the wires, so I did,, and simply fed the copper wire from the red wire to slide alongside where the the white one terminates, and slide the black one alongside where the black one terminates, being sure that my wires touch their corresponding wires. Then I closed up the receptacle top, and wire tied the wires to keep them secure so that they don't slip out. I fed the transmitter inside the metal headlight shroud, and wire tied it to keep it from moving.

Replacing the headlight & giving it a "smoke" test showed that it works great!!

 

I also soldered my GDO so the button was basicly closed all the time. I did not use the high beam though. I mounted a momentary button with a rubber boot where the switches would be mounted on the fairing. Works likes yours though. This way is only get power when you press the button.