Cool. I used it years ago at a stereo shop but haven't seen a source for it in a while. I never did any bending of it though.
The deflectors on mine block a lot of the wind to the face also.

 

i wonderwhy seems no king owner has wired the GDO in the left spare switch of the nacelle

 

After walking into my mast twice in the last week, I decided to swap in a AutoZone rubber shorty. That was too bendy for my taste and looked out of alignment (OCD I know). So I converted my stock mast. It doesnt have the allen head to remove from the base so I proceded to remove the end tip by heating the mast near the tip and rotating it off. I put the tip in a vise and used a LP torch. Thats when i found theres a fiber coating on the mast..it does burn. Anyways just twist the mast and tip comes off. I then scored the mast where I wanted to make cut with a razor knife (14" in my case as thats length of AZ unit) then used a hack saw to cut through metal portion. I then reamed the tip out with a T-handle and bit thats smaller than new mast end. Carefully twist the tip on and stayed put. Freebie and wont loose an eye!

 

I'm going to try to find a Gold Wing A/C...that's a great idea for the shocks.

 

This is a great thread! Thank you for all the great ideas!

 

Some simple cosmetic stuff...











From a RAZR on a ultra

 

Probably one of my favorite mods, 1 1/2" headlight extension.



From a RAZR on a ultra

 

Here is an update on the original fork wind deflectors that I made a few weeks ago.
First off I do think that they help, second, I did not completely like how they looked, so I updated the style twice.
The first was to create a curve and to slim them done a little, which I did. But after mounting them, I realized that by slimming them down in the wrong place, up high at the beginning of the fold, they became to flimsy for my taste. I really did like the look of the curve though, just did not give them a try on the road.
The second was to re-cut another set and put back the material in the design that I removed to strengthen them back up, but keeping the slimmer and longer design. These are also flat and at a slight angle like the first set.
The third attempt is now what is on the scoot.
If I decide to make anymore, I will have to come up with more plastic.

 

garage opener:
total cost: ~4 usd.
cut small L bracket, drilled 2 holes (1 for on-off-on toggle switch and 1 to attach to l bracket of saddle bag. drilled 3 small holes in Chamberlain remote, ran 3 wires thru it, soldered onto board (search for how), put some shrink cable around the wires and ran thru/along frame. on-off-on toggle switch can be found on ebay (think i paid 3.5 dollar).
I can reach toggle with m6y hand/finger between left saddle bag en fender.
sprayed bracket with some plasti dip I had laying around. you can barely see the switch....



hole plugs: lowered the passenger peg brackets and it shows those ugly/"rusty" threaded holes. closed them with 5/16 plastic hole plugs (71 cents for 2 at HomDep!). these were white so grabbed some gloss black spraypaint (and primer) and painted them. 1.5 dollars - no ugly rusty holes to be seen anymore (need 2 plugs per side)



USB charge station (including 12v power supply - in case you need that).
parts (ebay - search for the names below):
- 1 Harley OEM Deutsch DT BLACK MALE 4X connector + terminals switch wires wiring
$8.25
- 12V/24V Car Cigarette Lighter Socket DC Power Adapter Spl...
$ 5.45
- EXTRA! not needed: car cigarette lighter socket to 2 Port Dual USB power charger Adapter converter (I took the mini square black one)
$ 4.59

the usb / power supply got 2 usb (1A each) connectors and 2 power supply plug ins. I stuck the usb plug in (2A!!!) in there so I got 4 usb connections. actually 3 as 1 is blocked by the siren alarm unit clamp. Stuck the unit on the left side of the bike behind the cap.
how to:
- cut off the power plug from the usb box. measure what the positive line is (the black wire with the white text one it; let me help you). and what the negative is (the otyher one right ).
stripped the ends for about 1/4 inch. pulled them thru the rubber socket of the 4 point deutsch socket (orange one - use small screw driver to pull it out). soldered it onto 2 of the 4 pins that come with the connector.
squeezed the pin clamps round around the wire as best as I could.
plugged the pins into the correct positions... The connector goes into the acc. connector underneath the seat. look at the acc connector back and locate the black wire - that is ground. the one next to it, when looking at the connector with the "click clamp" facing up or down, is the IGN switch one (IGN on will provide power to that pin). your choice to put the positive pin into the fairing ACC switch "location". search forum for pin assignment.
pushed pins into the connector as far as you can. pushed the orange rubber "cap" back into place. on the front put the "split cap" into the connector and you are done. connect to the bike acc. connector and use multi meter to check power on the power supply (just to be save - I did not hook up my cell phone to check to begin with).
Initially I had the unit on a bracket underneath the seat (plenty of room) with the usb and power socket pointing DOWNWARDS for moist reasons.
I changed it to now sit in the left "cap" on the side of the bike and used the siren brackets to hold it in place. double taped my radio shack siren on top of the usb charger.
ran male - female usb cords to front (in fairing) and back (left saddle bag) of the bike for hidden charge points. I can put any male usb to micro/mini/Ipod Iphone cable in there...

 

order some chrome mirror vinyl wrap (rvinyl ebay) to see if I can wrap saddle back latches and perhaps also stock mirrors. for 9 usd it is worth a try right? will post outcome (pos - with pics - or neg - no pics ).