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Old Mar 3, 2014 | 09:45 PM
  #1481  
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Originally Posted by WICK
This bolt
39 cents ss
54 cents chrome at my local hardware store
 
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Old Mar 12, 2014 | 06:41 PM
  #1482  
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Drilled a 1/2" hole in the front of the plastic side cover. Bought RS black on black button momentary switch and wired my Garage door opener to it. Taped the opener circuitry up and to the back of the cover.
 
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Old Mar 12, 2014 | 09:49 PM
  #1483  
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Originally Posted by TenMidgets
Drilled a 1/2" hole in the front of the plastic side cover. Bought RS black on black button momentary switch and wired my Garage door opener to it. Taped the opener circuitry up and to the back of the cover.
Thought of doing that and mounting it to the empty spots on the fairing
 
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Old Mar 12, 2014 | 09:51 PM
  #1484  
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So I installed my true dual head pipes today and was wondering if anyone has had to extend their O2 sensors
 
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Old Mar 13, 2014 | 07:01 AM
  #1485  
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Terry, you need to check in the other sections. Performance, exhaust, etc.
New bike looking good.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2014 | 02:39 PM
  #1486  
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Brian
Just wait til I get my heat shields back from the powdercoat. I've got some other things to powder too but I don't want my bike down so long.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2014 | 05:45 PM
  #1487  
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Default Garage Door Opener - High Beam Mod

I am having problem with this mod. I did it about 5 years ago with no problem. Used an old remote, wired the switch to remain open and hooked up power from high beam. I had to change my garage door opener recently to a new Security+ 2.0 opener. The old remote is not compatible with the new opener. When I tried to wire around the switch on the new remote, it would not work the same. If I leave the battery in the remote and short across a couple of terminals, it does simulate pushing the switch. However, when I remove the battery and put the battery back in while leaving the jumper wire connected, it will not operate the remote. If I leave the battery connected and remove the wire from one terminal and reattach it, it works. Anyone have any ideas on what I need to do to make this work?
 
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Old Mar 15, 2014 | 12:04 PM
  #1488  
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Originally Posted by Dale0202
If I leave the battery in the remote and short across a couple of terminals, it does simulate pushing the switch. However, when I remove the battery and put the battery back in while leaving the jumper wire connected, it will not operate the remote. If I leave the battery connected and remove the wire from one terminal and reattach it, it works. Anyone have any ideas on what I need to do to make this work?
That sounds like the pulse is being sent based on the event of button press rather than button state (something we learn about keyboard programming). With power being applied after the button being down would not trigger a button press event since it's already down. Unfortunately, that is probably controlled by the chips in the remote itself. I believe your only way around this one is to use a 3rd party remote (though I wouldn't hazard a guess as to which one).
 
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Old Mar 16, 2014 | 05:39 PM
  #1489  
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Wow! some great Ideas in this thread. I'm thinking that garage door openers deserve their own "sticky" ???
 
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Old Mar 25, 2014 | 08:01 AM
  #1490  
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Default Horn Relocation

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...009-glide.html

 
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