I drilled a 37/64 hole in the top of my primary, tapped it with a 5/8-18 tap and installed a chrome EVO timing plug pn#94138-93T. Now I don't have to take off the derby cover to fill the primary and if I do take off the derby cover for a clutch adjustment, it is still easier to fill the primary through this hole. Now before anybody says you need to see the bottom of the clutch basket to see that the fluid touches the bottom of it, once you fill it a couple of times and each time it takes the same amount it ain't gonna shrink or expand and change the amount on you. I contemplated using a crush washer, but I thought about it and the top of the primary only gets splashed as the chain goes around, it doesn't have constant fluid resting on it. Therefore, I thought a little thread sealant and I'd be good to go. Here's a couple of finished pics.






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Great mod... however, I'mguessing you drilled and tapped that into the primary withthe covercompletely removed from the bike, right? Did you do anything special to catch the metal shavings?

 

I took the cover off after and cleaned up everything good. There wasn't much there because I sucked it with a vac as I went.

 

I thought that I had a new mod for my HD. Should have known better!!!I started to remove my grab bar and relocate my license plate, and did a search on the Forum and found loads of good info!!! Should have known that too!!! Thanks Guys.

 

Going to install Electra-glo light rails on my 08 Ultra
Figured that these could be a nice set of aditional brake-lights as well

Got 3 1ft red flexible lightstrips from Custom Dynamics http://www.customdynamics.com/flex_led_array.htm(near the bottom of the page)

These strips comes in a red tube - but the tubes can be discarded. Each strip contains 100 incredible bright red LED's bit the strips can be cut for each 5 LED's

You will need two strips vith 70 LEDs on each side - which leaves a small 20 ledstrip that is not used. To make in total 4 strips of 70 LEDs you will have to do a little soldering - but you could allso jus get 4 x 100 LED strips - but thats will leave 4 x 30 LED's not used.

The 4 70 LED strips are simply installed with doublesided foam tape inside the rear of the lightrails

I have not installed the lightrails on my bike yet - but so far I am trilled about the results. The LEDs are EXTREMELY bright

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Hey Guys,

I just wanted to add one here as it works well and saved me money. All in all it cost about $28. Recently I got all the parts and added a detachable Tour Pak to the Road King Custom. I only see using it on long runs but then again riding season is not here yet. Anyway I wanted to make sure the Tour Pak didn't get scratched upwhen it is off the bike. I had investigated several options but they ranged from $60 to $160 and most were designed to attach to a wall with studs 16 inch on center. I have a Pole Barn and guess what? No studs 16 inches apart.

The first pic is the original concept and the parts list. I will itemize these as it did not show up very good. Also you will notice in the original design the bars were parallel. This turned out to be no good as the detachables are not parallel. As you will see in the other pics the are actually 1 then 2 then 1. the 4 rods allow my Tour Pak, The Detachable Rack and the DetachableBackrest to all be mounted at the same time. They have to be offset just a little as the rear most rod is common to the Tour Pak and the DetachableRack

The parts list are as follows:


2 - 2 x 6 x 19 Boards, you may want to make it a little longer as you will notice in pic the backrest actually straddles the mounting post.

8- 3 inch 5/16 lag screws
8- 5/16 washers

2 -36 x 1/2 inch rods of all thread
16 - 1/2 inch nuts
16 - 1/2 inch washers
approx -36 inches of tubing 1/2 inch ID and 5/8 OD (I had to buy 10 foot at Home Depot)

Cut the all thread to 18 inches.The rods can be shorter. It was just much easier to cut the rods in half. Note: 12 inch rods are not long enough. I made this mistake when buying the parts initially. I bought 4 - 12 inch rods at first and determined they were just not going to leave enought "play". Put 3 nuts on the rod. Two about 4 inches apart to clap in the vise the one at the 14 inch mark, one at the 18 inch markand the other next to it just wide enough for the sawsall blade to pass between them. This guides the blade and also helps clean up the threads after the cut. When you back off the nuts it cleans the threads.

Mark a line down the center of the board, length wise, you will need this later.The poles in the barn are 5 1/2 inches deep.So Imesured and marked the board with a vertical line there (L1). Measure back 2 inches and mark a vertical line there (L2). ThenI went back4 inches, the approximate distance of the front of the backrest to the front mounting point on the quick disconnect mounting bracket. This leaves about 2 inches of play room to tilt the Tour Pak for mounting. Mark this point with a vertical line (L3). Then go back another 4 1/5 inches and mark this point with a vertical line (L4). This is the point for the rear mounting point of the quick disconnect mounting bracket.

To drill all the holes in the boards I attached the two boards together with clamps and drilled both boards at the same time. This assures parallel and uniform holes. Atthe intersection of thefourth vertical line (L4)and the centerlinedrill a 1/2 inch hole. Then at the (L3) intersection measure 1 inch fromeach side of the center line and drill 2 - 1/2 inch holes.Then at (L2) measure3/4 of an inch down from the center mark and drill a 1/2 inch hole. I then marked the board with an X fromline (L1) to the opposite tip of the board and vise versa.Come in 1 1/2 inches from each tip of the x mark and drill4 mounting guide holes. The size of your 8 lag bolts. Mine were 5/16.

Feed the nuts on to the center of the rodtill there is about 4 inches between them. Then put awasher oneach end. Put all four rods into one board. Then feed the opposite end into the other board. Now put on the outside washers and nuts. Do not tighten the nuts yet.

 

Okay Guys, I was borred and didn't want to go to bed early so I went out and took a few more pics. If you look close you can still see pencil marks on the board. Also notice when multiple items are on it there has to be a stagger in mounting as I mentioned in the first post. I showed how even the Rider Backrest can be positioned when the Detachable Rack is on or off.

I added a pic so you can see how it keeps the stuff up and out of harms way.

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No wonder you're bored, weather (I see the snowplow). Sorry man, can't help rubbing it in a little.

 

Yeah,

Let's hope that crap is over!

 

I have a Pole Barn and this mod will come in very handy for my removable tourpak and backrest.

Thanks for posting Johnny.