"DIY MODS" and TRICKS to SAVE $$$$$$
Road Warrior
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,853
Likes: 21
From: central florida
RE: "DIY MODS" and TRICKS to SAVE $$$$$$
ORIGINAL: Lost1
For those unhappy with the stock horn's performance (or the lack thereof) here's how I replaced the cheesy stock item with a pair of FIAMM Freeway Blaster 130dB electric horns. The installation is simple (takes about an hour or so) and the bike will look completely stock when done. I chose FIAMM's because I've had them on every bike I've ever owned, they're reliable, and they'll wake up the dead! [sm=devilgrin.gif]
I bought the horns from JC Whitney for $36 for a set of 2 (high & low tone.) High tone P/N is ZX133190A and the low tone is P/N ZX133191R. You may be able to find these same horns at a local auto parts store as well.
I bought a roll of 14ga stranded wire, a standard 15 amp fuse holder & fuse, some crimp-on male & female spade connectors, and a 12v, 30A relay (Part #275-226) from Radio Shack at a total cost of about $12.
Remove the stock horn & mount one Fiamm horn where the stock horn was. (No mods are necessary as the FIAMM mounts using the same bracket as the stock horn, & the chrome cowbell cover fits over the new horn so it still looks stock.) Leave the 2 stock horn wires disconnected for now.
The other horn you can mount anywhere. I mounted mine to a frame inboard of the right-hand saddlebag using an existing frame bolt (see pic.)
I mounted the 12v/30A relay in a cubbyhole just forward of the battery under the seat. (Your mount location may vary depending on what you prefer.)
All that's left is the wiring, which is simple (even for the electrically challenged, which I most certainly am) as the 4 terminals on the relay are numbered. Use crimp-on connectors as necessary. Using the diagram on the back of the relay package as a guide:
Using the 14ga wire you bought, lengthen and run the existing horn positive wire to terminal 86 on the relay.
Do the same for the existing horn negative wire & connect to terminal 85 on the relay. (These wires activate the relay when you push the horn button.)
Turn on the ignition and press the horn button- you should hear the relay click. If all is well turn off ignition. If not, double-check your connections.
Next, using the 14ga wire, run a 15A fuse-protected 12v hot wire from the + terminal of the battery to terminal 87 on the relay. (Leave fuse out till all wiring is finished.)
Then run two wires off relay terminal 30/51, connecting one of the wires to a terminal on each of the horns. (These are the hot wires to the horns.)
Each horn will have a terminal remaining. Using the 14ga wire, make a short jumper wire and connect one end to the remaining horn terminal on each horn & the other end to any ground. (I just used any available frame screw close to the horn.)
Tape all connections, then connect the fused hot wire, turn on the ignition, & the horns should blow when you push the stock horn button.
[My picture shows how I mounted & wired the rear horn. The wiring for the front horn under the cowbell is similar.]
[IMG]local://upfiles/26619/93FDE52DB66545349F3FFD040D195A2E.jpg[/IMG]
For those unhappy with the stock horn's performance (or the lack thereof) here's how I replaced the cheesy stock item with a pair of FIAMM Freeway Blaster 130dB electric horns. The installation is simple (takes about an hour or so) and the bike will look completely stock when done. I chose FIAMM's because I've had them on every bike I've ever owned, they're reliable, and they'll wake up the dead! [sm=devilgrin.gif]
I bought the horns from JC Whitney for $36 for a set of 2 (high & low tone.) High tone P/N is ZX133190A and the low tone is P/N ZX133191R. You may be able to find these same horns at a local auto parts store as well.
I bought a roll of 14ga stranded wire, a standard 15 amp fuse holder & fuse, some crimp-on male & female spade connectors, and a 12v, 30A relay (Part #275-226) from Radio Shack at a total cost of about $12.
Remove the stock horn & mount one Fiamm horn where the stock horn was. (No mods are necessary as the FIAMM mounts using the same bracket as the stock horn, & the chrome cowbell cover fits over the new horn so it still looks stock.) Leave the 2 stock horn wires disconnected for now.
The other horn you can mount anywhere. I mounted mine to a frame inboard of the right-hand saddlebag using an existing frame bolt (see pic.)
I mounted the 12v/30A relay in a cubbyhole just forward of the battery under the seat. (Your mount location may vary depending on what you prefer.)
All that's left is the wiring, which is simple (even for the electrically challenged, which I most certainly am) as the 4 terminals on the relay are numbered. Use crimp-on connectors as necessary. Using the diagram on the back of the relay package as a guide:
Using the 14ga wire you bought, lengthen and run the existing horn positive wire to terminal 86 on the relay.
Do the same for the existing horn negative wire & connect to terminal 85 on the relay. (These wires activate the relay when you push the horn button.)
Turn on the ignition and press the horn button- you should hear the relay click. If all is well turn off ignition. If not, double-check your connections.
Next, using the 14ga wire, run a 15A fuse-protected 12v hot wire from the + terminal of the battery to terminal 87 on the relay. (Leave fuse out till all wiring is finished.)
Then run two wires off relay terminal 30/51, connecting one of the wires to a terminal on each of the horns. (These are the hot wires to the horns.)
Each horn will have a terminal remaining. Using the 14ga wire, make a short jumper wire and connect one end to the remaining horn terminal on each horn & the other end to any ground. (I just used any available frame screw close to the horn.)
Tape all connections, then connect the fused hot wire, turn on the ignition, & the horns should blow when you push the stock horn button.
[My picture shows how I mounted & wired the rear horn. The wiring for the front horn under the cowbell is similar.]
[IMG]local://upfiles/26619/93FDE52DB66545349F3FFD040D195A2E.jpg[/IMG]
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,032
Likes: 9
From: Alabama
RE: "DIY MODS" and TRICKS to SAVE $$$$$$
ORIGINAL: relli
ive thought of adding a couple of mini stebels to that area. have to wonder if it would fit
ive thought of adding a couple of mini stebels to that area. have to wonder if it would fit
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,121
Likes: 300
From: New Mexico-No, you don't need a passport.
Stripped Transmission Dipstick Hole
I was changing the clutch release bearing on my 95 Electra Glide. Every thing was going very smoothly.
I drained the transmission.
Loosened the exhaust system.
Removed the dipstick.
Removed the Clutch release cover.
Replaced the release bearing.
Installed the clutch release cover.
Adjusted the clutch.
Tightened up the exhaust system.
Filled the tranny with oil.
I try to screw in the tranny dip stick and it won't go in.
The threads in the cover are buggered.[sm=headbang.gif]
I don't know how the last guy ever got the thing threaded in.
Anyways, it's Sunday morning. It's gonna be 70 degrees, and I want to ride. You just know the dealer won't have a new cover in stock. But they'll be happy to order one.
I find a 3/4" rubber freeze plug but it's a little to large and won't start in the hole.
I have an Ace Hardware store about about 100 feet from my front door. You don't know how nice that can be.
I go to Ace Hardware and find a cone shaped rubber plug with the small end less than 3/4" and the large end greater than 3/4".
I drill a hole through the center of the plug, a little smaller than a #12 machine screw. You want a good friction fit.
Put a washer on a #12 machine screw and shove it in through the small end up through the large end.
Place a 1/4" fender washer over the screw then place a #12 washer over that. Place a #12 nut on the screw and run it up finger tight.
Be sure that the nut is on the large side of the plug. The outside.
The tight fit will keep the screw from falling into the tranny if the nut ever comes off.
Push the plug into the tranny cover. Tighten it up with a wrench and you're done.
At some point I will replace the clutch release cover but probably not until it gets cold again.
I've put about a thousand miles on it so far and it has not loosened or leaked.
Cost: About 4 bucks.
Riding with a BSEG.
Priceless.
I drained the transmission.
Loosened the exhaust system.
Removed the dipstick.
Removed the Clutch release cover.
Replaced the release bearing.
Installed the clutch release cover.
Adjusted the clutch.
Tightened up the exhaust system.
Filled the tranny with oil.
I try to screw in the tranny dip stick and it won't go in.
The threads in the cover are buggered.[sm=headbang.gif]
I don't know how the last guy ever got the thing threaded in.
Anyways, it's Sunday morning. It's gonna be 70 degrees, and I want to ride. You just know the dealer won't have a new cover in stock. But they'll be happy to order one.
I find a 3/4" rubber freeze plug but it's a little to large and won't start in the hole.
I have an Ace Hardware store about about 100 feet from my front door. You don't know how nice that can be.
I go to Ace Hardware and find a cone shaped rubber plug with the small end less than 3/4" and the large end greater than 3/4".
I drill a hole through the center of the plug, a little smaller than a #12 machine screw. You want a good friction fit.
Put a washer on a #12 machine screw and shove it in through the small end up through the large end.
Place a 1/4" fender washer over the screw then place a #12 washer over that. Place a #12 nut on the screw and run it up finger tight.
Be sure that the nut is on the large side of the plug. The outside.
The tight fit will keep the screw from falling into the tranny if the nut ever comes off.
Push the plug into the tranny cover. Tighten it up with a wrench and you're done.
At some point I will replace the clutch release cover but probably not until it gets cold again.
I've put about a thousand miles on it so far and it has not loosened or leaked.
Cost: About 4 bucks.
Riding with a BSEG.
Priceless. 
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 3,947
Likes: 5
From: Ontario, Canada
RE: Stripped Transmission Dipstick Hole
Well done Lost1.
When you go to change the cover, you can save some money and time if you drive your wheels up onto the flat of a 2 x 4 or wider 2" such as a 2 x 8. With the bike parked on the wood, it will lean a lot further to the left when you put it on the jiffy stand. Now when you remove the transmission side cover you won't loose much if any of your oil. If you put it up and leave it for a while before you remove the cover, there won't even be a drop.
Good luck.
When you go to change the cover, you can save some money and time if you drive your wheels up onto the flat of a 2 x 4 or wider 2" such as a 2 x 8. With the bike parked on the wood, it will lean a lot further to the left when you put it on the jiffy stand. Now when you remove the transmission side cover you won't loose much if any of your oil. If you put it up and leave it for a while before you remove the cover, there won't even be a drop.
Good luck.
Intermediate
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 42
Likes: 1
From:
RE: "DIY MODS" and TRICKS to SAVE $$$$$$
I didnt like the look of the howard horn design with the cowbell under the horns but I like the look of the horn. I went to my friends metal fab and made up a couple of different brackets and then had them painted to match the bike. I put the compressor under the front part of the seat. Below are some of the pictures...
Stage II
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
RE: "DIY MODS" and TRICKS to SAVE $$$$$$
chop police windshield - I have a 2004 FLHTPI with a monster for a windshield...it distorts my vision and looks like crap. 61/2 smoked from HD is over $100 so i am thinking of scribbing a line across the shield using the edge of the fairing as a guide and cutting it down....questions: do i need to tape the cut to stop rip-out, will the heat of the saw melt the plexi? saber saw, band saw, sawz-all??? also, i was going to then film the shield to smoke it but concerned about it lasting...smoke inside or outside, etc Anyone chop their shield?? Thanks
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Elite HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 3,947
Likes: 5
From: Ontario, Canada
RE: "DIY MODS" and TRICKS to SAVE $$$$$$
Or you could go to ebay and find lots of windshields from different places for around $30.
Ijust purchased 3 chrome ones from a company in California for $120.00 shipped to Canada.
Ijust purchased 3 chrome ones from a company in California for $120.00 shipped to Canada.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 4,391
Likes: 10
From:
RE: "DIY MODS" and TRICKS to SAVE $$$$$$
ORIGINAL: harleyguy01863
chop police windshield - I have a 2004 FLHTPI with a monster for a windshield...it distorts my vision and looks like crap. 61/2 smoked from HD is over $100 so i am thinking of scribbing a line across the shield using the edge of the fairing as a guide and cutting it down....questions: do i need to tape the cut to stop rip-out, will the heat of the saw melt the plexi? saber saw, band saw, sawz-all??? also, i was going to then film the shield to smoke it but concerned about it lasting...smoke inside or outside, etc Anyone chop their shield?? Thanks
chop police windshield - I have a 2004 FLHTPI with a monster for a windshield...it distorts my vision and looks like crap. 61/2 smoked from HD is over $100 so i am thinking of scribbing a line across the shield using the edge of the fairing as a guide and cutting it down....questions: do i need to tape the cut to stop rip-out, will the heat of the saw melt the plexi? saber saw, band saw, sawz-all??? also, i was going to then film the shield to smoke it but concerned about it lasting...smoke inside or outside, etc Anyone chop their shield?? Thanks