"DIY MODS" and TRICKS to SAVE $$$$$$
5th Gear
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
great idea
Here's my version of an economy Garage Door Opener on an Ultra. Can be adapted any dry area you can fit the opener circuit board. I removed the circuit board from the case and soldered in a HD Odometer Reset Switch. Foam taped the circuit board underneath the console. Drilled a hole for the switch through the plastic portion of the console opposite the CB Intercom socket. Almost looks like it was designed that way especially since the Odometer Reset Switch matches the one on the fairing. You could do the same thing through the fairing and mount the transmitter inside the fairing. The batteries typically last more than a year or so. With that battery life you do not have to access it very often to change the battery.
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Advanced
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
From: Fayetteville, NC
2006 Electra Glide Radio
I took a chance this weekend and decided to install a radio in my 06 Electra glide Standard
. I did it all for around $180.00. I know I know it is probally no where hear what some of you may have as far as sound and what not, but i could not see paying $1,000 to hear music. Anyway, I bought the radio and speakers from Wally World, and got the antenna from AutoZone. It sets inside my fairing and I have the option to connect it to a 12v power supply or not. It picks up all the radio stations just fine without it so I decided not to connect it, (unless I move to a place with moutains or such). It works awesome. Just my 2 cents. (plus it was only 12 bucks).
. I did it all for around $180.00. I know I know it is probally no where hear what some of you may have as far as sound and what not, but i could not see paying $1,000 to hear music. Anyway, I bought the radio and speakers from Wally World, and got the antenna from AutoZone. It sets inside my fairing and I have the option to connect it to a 12v power supply or not. It picks up all the radio stations just fine without it so I decided not to connect it, (unless I move to a place with moutains or such). It works awesome. Just my 2 cents. (plus it was only 12 bucks).
6th Gear
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
+1 First mod I made to my '99 RKC! It's a bit of a nuissance to take the bags off now, but well worth it for the extra piece of mind.
Jake
Jake
I found this fix in a post about a guy who lost a saddle bag https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...-fell-off.html and just did it for myself. Replacing the twist locks for my saddle bags not only will prevent them from falling off going down the road if I don't get them locked all the way, but shoudl prevent theft too.
It cost about $7.50 because I got the stainless button head allen screws, 5/16" x 1.25", and 5/16' U nuts. It took me about 2 minutes to do one bag, and about 10 minutes on the other because there was a burl on the screw that I had to file down before it would thread in the U nut. I replaced all 4 twist locks with these screws and U nuts. I used the washers that came with the bike
5/16" x 1.25" stainless button head socket cap screw, Part#87328, $.99
5/16" Extruded U-Nut, $.69
From Menards
I can't take credit for the idea, but I hadn't seen it posted here and it is a cheap fix so I figured I'd get it out there for other
It cost about $7.50 because I got the stainless button head allen screws, 5/16" x 1.25", and 5/16' U nuts. It took me about 2 minutes to do one bag, and about 10 minutes on the other because there was a burl on the screw that I had to file down before it would thread in the U nut. I replaced all 4 twist locks with these screws and U nuts. I used the washers that came with the bike
5/16" x 1.25" stainless button head socket cap screw, Part#87328, $.99
5/16" Extruded U-Nut, $.69
From Menards
I can't take credit for the idea, but I hadn't seen it posted here and it is a cheap fix so I figured I'd get it out there for other
Road Master
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 763
Likes: 1
From: North Edwards, CA
GREAT Post
Gaining extra room on buddy seat, Ultra LTD
Found the new Ultra to be a little cramped in the seat area for two up. That tourpak just does not sit back as far as a sissy bar type of backrest, as on our old bike, and, at close to retirement age, we are not as svelte as we used to be.
HD offers two positions for the tourpak, but found it to already be in the rearmost spot. Kury offers a bracket that moves the tp back further from stock, but at one hundred some odd green ones. Solution:
Cut two pieces of 1" x 3/8' aluminum flatbar to 11.625".
Pinpunch right down the center line at .5" (A), 1.5"(B), 9.625"(C), and 10.625"(D).
Drill holes A and C with 5/16" drill bit, use 1/2" drill bit to chamfer for countersunk bore, drill just deep enough with 1/2" bit to have tapered head capscrew sit flush when in hole.
Drill holes B and D with 7/32 drill, tap holes to 1/4 x 20 (coarse thread).
Remove tourpak, install flatbars on each side of bike support bracket into existing tourpak mounting holes using slotted tapered head capscrews, 1/4-20 x 1" long (plated screws preferred).
Install tourpak onto holes B and D, bolt into place using original washers and new 1/4-20 x 3/4" long plated bolts.
As extra insurance, when everything was installed I used 1/4 inch locknuts on bottom side of slotted screws to lock into place in bike bracket, as they are hard to torque down with a flat blade screw driver.
Voila! Tourpak moved back one more inch, sits 3/8" higher but not at all noticeable, much more room for buddy rider, and bike looks longer and sleeker.
Found the new Ultra to be a little cramped in the seat area for two up. That tourpak just does not sit back as far as a sissy bar type of backrest, as on our old bike, and, at close to retirement age, we are not as svelte as we used to be.
HD offers two positions for the tourpak, but found it to already be in the rearmost spot. Kury offers a bracket that moves the tp back further from stock, but at one hundred some odd green ones. Solution:
Cut two pieces of 1" x 3/8' aluminum flatbar to 11.625".
Pinpunch right down the center line at .5" (A), 1.5"(B), 9.625"(C), and 10.625"(D).
Drill holes A and C with 5/16" drill bit, use 1/2" drill bit to chamfer for countersunk bore, drill just deep enough with 1/2" bit to have tapered head capscrew sit flush when in hole.
Drill holes B and D with 7/32 drill, tap holes to 1/4 x 20 (coarse thread).
Remove tourpak, install flatbars on each side of bike support bracket into existing tourpak mounting holes using slotted tapered head capscrews, 1/4-20 x 1" long (plated screws preferred).
Install tourpak onto holes B and D, bolt into place using original washers and new 1/4-20 x 3/4" long plated bolts.
As extra insurance, when everything was installed I used 1/4 inch locknuts on bottom side of slotted screws to lock into place in bike bracket, as they are hard to torque down with a flat blade screw driver.
Voila! Tourpak moved back one more inch, sits 3/8" higher but not at all noticeable, much more room for buddy rider, and bike looks longer and sleeker.
-clutch-
Road Warrior
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,648
Likes: 37
From: Monroe, Louisiana
Tour Pack relocation
My wife and I are both retired also. Wife could use the extra room as the backrest takes up some of her space. The relocation tip will be my next project. Right after I relocate the passenger foot rest up 1 1/2" and forward 1" to keep the back of her legs off the Saddle bag protectors. Thanks for the idea.
Advanced
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
From: North Carolina
5/16 Extruded U-Nut
I've asked around and I no one has ever heard of a U-Nut. Does it go by another name? We don't have a Manard's in eastern NC. Thanks.
I found this fix in a post about a guy who lost a saddle bag https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...-fell-off.html and just did it for myself. Replacing the twist locks for my saddle bags not only will prevent them from falling off going down the road if I don't get them locked all the way, but shoudl prevent theft too.
It cost about $7.50 because I got the stainless button head allen screws, 5/16" x 1.25", and 5/16' U nuts. It took me about 2 minutes to do one bag, and about 10 minutes on the other because there was a burl on the screw that I had to file down before it would thread in the U nut. I replaced all 4 twist locks with these screws and U nuts. I used the washers that came with the bike
5/16" x 1.25" stainless button head socket cap screw, Part#87328, $.99
5/16" Extruded U-Nut, $.69
From Menards
I can't take credit for the idea, but I hadn't seen it posted here and it is a cheap fix so I figured I'd get it out there for other
It cost about $7.50 because I got the stainless button head allen screws, 5/16" x 1.25", and 5/16' U nuts. It took me about 2 minutes to do one bag, and about 10 minutes on the other because there was a burl on the screw that I had to file down before it would thread in the U nut. I replaced all 4 twist locks with these screws and U nuts. I used the washers that came with the bike
5/16" x 1.25" stainless button head socket cap screw, Part#87328, $.99
5/16" Extruded U-Nut, $.69
From Menards
I can't take credit for the idea, but I hadn't seen it posted here and it is a cheap fix so I figured I'd get it out there for other
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Novice
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
overheard tips
I overheard a conversation with our mechanical guru at a chapter night yesterday. A guy had a problem with a siezed pinch bolt on his Norton fork leg, just couldnt shift it whatever he tried. He was told to touch it with a Mig welder, apparently the current breaks up the corrosion and it will just tap out. Also works on broken cylinder studs.
Another tip he was told by an old Vincent rider was about cleaning carbs, forget the cleaning sprays etc.., just stick the carb in a pan of distilled water and boil it up, preferably outside, this should clean off the gum and deposits without any harm to gaskets or seals.
Thought I would pass this on, might be useful to somebody.
Regards, Roger.
Another tip he was told by an old Vincent rider was about cleaning carbs, forget the cleaning sprays etc.., just stick the carb in a pan of distilled water and boil it up, preferably outside, this should clean off the gum and deposits without any harm to gaskets or seals.
Thought I would pass this on, might be useful to somebody.
Regards, Roger.