You still need the "security" option from the dealer. The siren is an upgrade to the standard security option. The radio shack is just 60+ dollars cheaper than harley's version!

 

The acc plug was under the seat in front of the battery. Got a connector for free from the dealers mechanic and hook up was a breeze. Like having it hooked to the unused acc switch.

 

Went to the local Radio Shack and got the $6.00 siren. Laughed when I saw the small size of it. I didn't cut any wires on the install. Did what someone posted on here about sliding the black and red wires in the harness. Did a check on it and got a chirp. Taped it in and snapped the harness back in and done..I moved the scooter and I was surprise how loud it was standing behind it in the garage. It was just starting to hurt my ears when it shut off. Thanks for all the ride ups!!

 

Thanks for the info guys !

 

I found this fix in a post about a guy who lost a saddle bag https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...-fell-off.html and just did it for myself. Replacing the twist locks for my saddle bags not only will prevent them from falling off going down the road if I don't get them locked all the way, but shoudl prevent theft too.
It cost about $7.50 because I got the stainless button head allen screws, 5/16" x 1.25", and 5/16' U nuts. It took me about 2 minutes to do one bag, and about 10 minutes on the other because there was a burl on the screw that I had to file down before it would thread in the U nut. I replaced all 4 twist locks with these screws and U nuts. I used the washers that came with the bike

5/16" x 1.25" stainless button head socket cap screw, Part#87328, $.99
5/16" Extruded U-Nut, $.69
From Menards

I can't take credit for the idea, but I hadn't seen it posted here and it is a cheap fix so I figured I'd get it out there for other

 

Good Deal...I've always worried about my bags vibrating loose...

 

Ton of great info/ideas. Here's one if you want if you want to clean up the looks of the tourpak by removing the luggage rack. Take it off and using the same bolts and washers, cap them with chrome acorn nuts. Costs like $2 and looks really clean.

 

OK, Thought I'd throw in a mod of my own. We all want the garage door opener and I found an awesome way to do it.
I went on eBay in the auto parts section and did a search on 'Homelink'
Homelink is the garage door opener that is built in to your car or truck. (12 VDC...hmmm, getting excited yet?)
All of these are either one of two types. Rolling code or non rolling code. Determine which kind you need, most doors made in the last 10 years are the rolling code type, more secure and all...
Just buy the cheapest one you find with three buttons on it, they're all the same on the inside no matter what they fit or look like. (don't forget, rolling code or non rolling code...) I paid less than $12 for mine, shipping and all.
Once I got it I took the black box part (transmitter) off the part that matched whatever car it was taken from. There are only two wires to hook up, one to ground and the other to whatever switch you want to use. I opted to use my High Beam switch. So, if I hit the high beams, it powers up the Homelink, got it? I tapped into the high beam wire right behind the headlight and ran the wire under the dash on the tank, under the seat, and close to the fusebox.
I mounted the Homelink on the fusebox of my Road King under the left side cover with 3M double sided tape, the good stuff for car trim. Hooked up the switched wire, then I programed the Homelink. (Search Google for 'How to program a homelink', they all program the same...)

Here's a link if it works: http://www.homelink.com/programming/programming.taf

After it was programed to my door opener I put a small marble on top of the center micro-switch and snapped the lid shut.

Now, every time I get home, I flip on the high-beams and the door opens! If I'm driving at night and need the high beams, they work just fine, the homelink doesn't care if it stays on for a long time, it just wants to open my door!
Now I don't have to put the remote in my jeans pocket and try to hit the button while I'm driving up the street!

Hmmmm, Lisa used to feel around looking for that button come to think of it. Maybe this wasn't all that great an idea after all...

 

This is a great Thread Tons of great Ideas

 

Gaining extra room on buddy seat, Ultra LTD
Found the new Ultra to be a little cramped in the seat area for two up. That tourpak just does not sit back as far as a sissy bar type of backrest, as on our old bike, and, at close to retirement age, we are not as svelte as we used to be.
HD offers two positions for the tourpak, but found it to already be in the rearmost spot. Kury offers a bracket that moves the tp back further from stock, but at one hundred some odd green ones. Solution:
Cut two pieces of 1" x 3/8' aluminum flatbar to 11.625".
Pinpunch right down the center line at .5" (A), 1.5"(B), 9.625"(C), and 10.625"(D).
Drill holes A and C with 5/16" drill bit, use 1/2" drill bit to chamfer for countersunk bore, drill just deep enough with 1/2" bit to have tapered head capscrew sit flush when in hole.
Drill holes B and D with 7/32 drill, tap holes to 1/4 x 20 (coarse thread).
Remove tourpak, install flatbars on each side of bike support bracket into existing tourpak mounting holes using slotted tapered head capscrews, 1/4-20 x 1" long (plated screws preferred).
Install tourpak onto holes B and D, bolt into place using original washers and new 1/4-20 x 3/4" long plated bolts.
As extra insurance, when everything was installed I used 1/4 inch locknuts on bottom side of slotted screws to lock into place in bike bracket, as they are hard to torque down with a flat blade screw driver.
Voila! Tourpak moved back one more inch, sits 3/8" higher but not at all noticeable, much more room for buddy rider, and bike looks longer and sleeker.