"DIY MODS" and TRICKS to SAVE $$$$$$
Cruiser
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 129
Likes: 0
From: Cape Cod, Massachusetts
After 38,000 miles of use my shocks were constantly bottoming out, I was considering buying a new set of $450.00 rear shocks. After reading this post, I figured, what have I got to lose. Well it worked really well and I am completely happy with the results. I bought showa shock oil at a Honda shop, 1 quart of 5 wt and 1 qt of 10 wt and mixed them to achieve 7.5 wt. It took me about 2 hours to build the shock press and service both shocks. With 20 lbs of air, it floats over everything and never bottoms out, even on railroad tracks!
http://www.*****************/forums/harley-davidson-touring/138021-changing-oil-your-air-shocks.html
http://www.*****************/forums/harley-davidson-touring/138021-changing-oil-your-air-shocks.html
Cruiser
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 120
Likes: 3
From: So. Cal
Last edited by 999 Customs; Oct 20, 2010 at 05:23 PM.
Advanced
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 76
Likes: 0
Lets see; I completed the garage door opener mod with a with a momentary switch ($3.69 for switch, already had an extra garage door remote). I have completed the foot board 1 inch extension mod with a few old bushings found around the garage and some grade 8 bolts bought from a local hardware store (Less than $7.00 for all the grade 8 bolts). I completed the driving light mod, so they work with your high beams (Free - had the connectors, heat shrink and solder in my tool box). I completed the base sticker mod (this was the most expensive mod by far..... cost me a big ole farkin dent in my front fender and a few tears). I need help...... can a paint-less dent remover guy pull a mild crease from something like a fender and also from my brothers in arms, I need some good ideas on where and how to mount a base sticker without causing a big ole farkin dent.
I had a paint-less dent fix on my front fender done for $70 and I couldn't tell anything had ever happened.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 2,856
Likes: 102
From: Washington State
Ok, so I got another great idea from this thread. I went to a fabric store and picked up a yard of canvas and the to Ace hardware where I picked up 1 aluminium bar 1"x36" and 1/8 inch thick. Had my neighbor sew me two pouches for the inside of my hard bags. Each bag is 13" wide by 10" deep. We made the right side bag deeper for momma crap and the left side bag shallower for me (to mirror my intelligence). They really cleaned up all of the small crap floating in the bags that you always look for. Total cost was $20.00 with excess material to do 2 more.
Last edited by pretz; Oct 28, 2010 at 06:56 PM. Reason: add pictures
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 2,856
Likes: 102
From: Washington State
I removed the lid strap retaining screws (like that name) and replaced them with ones that were a 1/4 inch longer. If you notice, the aluminium rod is on top to provide support and rid sag.
Last edited by pretz; Oct 28, 2010 at 07:16 PM. Reason: update
Tourer
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 378
Likes: 1
From: Phenix City, Al
curious as to how this has worked for ya...did you remap the ecm?
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Road Captain
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 644
Likes: 31
From: Central Texas
The day I brought home the bike I spaced the chrome cover off the mount about 1/2". After I got pipes and a TTS I mapped it setup like that and then re-did again after I cut up the plastic. The map chg'd in 1-2 fields is all. Keep in mind with a TTS everytime you map it it will/does chg a little.
I was hoping it would breath a LOT better than my spaced off method but it didn't, more leg room is a benefit this way over the other.
I was hoping it would breath a LOT better than my spaced off method but it didn't, more leg room is a benefit this way over the other.
Novice
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
From: Phoenix Az
The garage door opener mod seems fairly popular. My solution was to take a regular opener, take it apart and solder the switch connector into the always on position. I then took my fairing off and soldered a couple of leads from my high beam light switch to the battery connectors so that when the high beams got power, so would the opener. I then put the fairing back on. This way, when I fire the high beams, the opener fires and the door opens. Added benefit is that the opener is out of sight, out of the weather, and will only work if the bike is powered. Cost - spare opener, which I had anyway.
Bill
Bill