"DIY MODS" and TRICKS to SAVE $$$$$$
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 2,234
Likes: 462
From: Arizona
For my garage door opener I bought a $5 momentary switch from Radio Shack. It has a 1/2" barrel with a 1/4" button and is black. I drilled and mounted it on the right side of the dash opposite the odometer reset button. The unit itself is zip-tied to a bracket & wiring harness above the radio.
Road Warrior
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,943
Likes: 3
From: NYC
Lower fairing pexi angle change
Ok, this is the final update.
I made some changes to get the max effect.
I used a bevel faucet washer on each side of the pexi. Bevel pointing towards the pexi.
Lower bolt, just used the bevel faucet washers.
Middle bolt, used 2 flat faucet washers along with the bevel set
Upper bolt, used 4 flat faucet washers along with the bevel set.
Pics below.
Like I reported earlier, the parachute effect is gone. Bike runs very straight.
I made some changes to get the max effect.
I used a bevel faucet washer on each side of the pexi. Bevel pointing towards the pexi.
Lower bolt, just used the bevel faucet washers.
Middle bolt, used 2 flat faucet washers along with the bevel set
Upper bolt, used 4 flat faucet washers along with the bevel set.
Pics below.
Like I reported earlier, the parachute effect is gone. Bike runs very straight.
6th Gear
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
From: southern Illinois
Ok,,here's one for ya,,,,,just bought an 08 ultra classic. I want to change the driving lights from a flood type beam to a spot beam ,,,,and,,,I want to be able to run them with the headlight in either the low or high beam position.right now they only operate in the low beam position. is there an easy hook up?? and who has the best spots?? the reason for this is,,we have a lot of deer in our area,,,the spots tend to make them stand out better.
Cruiser
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 120
Likes: 3
From: So. Cal
I grabbed a pair of "utility lights" at Wal-Mart for $12ea. they have fluted and non fluted, and a replaceable H3 bulb.. Works great and they ARE 4.5" so they fit in the factory housings.. $27 after tax for the pair, TAKE THAT, HARLEY STEALERSHIP..
Road Captain
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 644
Likes: 31
From: Central Texas
Ok, this is the final update.
I made some changes to get the max effect.
I used a bevel faucet washer on each side of the pexi. Bevel pointing towards the pexi.
Lower bolt, just used the bevel faucet washers.
Middle bolt, used 2 flat faucet washers along with the bevel set
Upper bolt, used 4 flat faucet washers along with the bevel set.
Pics below.
Like I reported earlier, the parachute effect is gone. Bike runs very straight.
I made some changes to get the max effect.
I used a bevel faucet washer on each side of the pexi. Bevel pointing towards the pexi.
Lower bolt, just used the bevel faucet washers.
Middle bolt, used 2 flat faucet washers along with the bevel set
Upper bolt, used 4 flat faucet washers along with the bevel set.
Pics below.
Like I reported earlier, the parachute effect is gone. Bike runs very straight.
No problem with riding in the rain now there is a shortcut to the dash created by gap?
Intermediate
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 41
Likes: 1
From: santa cruz mountains
hey white, can you walk through your opener from start to finish for me? im i little slow on the uptake, did you somehow remotely wire the button? i have a hole in my left side cover from a mistake drill for heated suit , that i want to use for my opener button, but need a bit of help. thanks
I wanted to install a garage door opener on the scoot, without giving the MoCo $130 bucks, so I used an existing visor mount model, and installed it in the dash. From the outside, there is no way to tell it's there.
Not counting the connectors and wire, which I already had, and the opener, which I already had, I have a total of 9 bucks, and 2 hours in this project.
This is a really simple project, if you trust yourself with a test light, a continuity tester and a soldering iron.
Here's how to do it:
First, make sure you have a 12 volt unit. The battery will tell you how many volts. A 12v battery is near the diameter of a AA, but it is shorter.
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________
Second is the parts I needed.
HD# 67880-94 is the rubber boot.
HD# 67854-98 is the Speedometer Reset switch.
The opener, some wire, I used red for hot, black for ground, and purple for the switch.
A 3M Quick Connect, for the hot lead.
Shrink tube and heat-shrink connectors, I like waterproof.
And most important, if you follow the green arrow... Diet Coke.
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________
This is what it looks like, when you take it apart.
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________
This is the bottom of your circuit board. The red arrows point to the back of the switch. Note there are 2 poles to each side of the switch.
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________
This is the top of your circuit board. The purple arrow points to the switch, and the red arrows point to 2 of the poles.
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________
Here it is with all of the wires soldered in place. Note where the red arrow is I bent the corner of the switch up. I used a continuity tester to be sure I did not cross the switch, and found I had, so I bent it up a bit.
Be sure you know which pole is hot and which is ground for your power.
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________
Here it is finished, and reassembled.
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________
In the dash...
Yellow arrow: Hot lead to the accessory lead under the ignition switch.
Green arrow: Ground run to the bolt at the top of my engine guard.
Red arrow: New switch installed.
Purple arrow: I wrapped some weatherproof foam and tape around the unit.
Orange arrow: Chickie's Butt.
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________
Here is the new switch installed...
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________
And here it is once again, finished
Green arrow: Speedometer/Clock/Odometer reset
Red arrow: Garage Door Opener
Orange arrow: Chickie's Butt
Not counting the connectors and wire, which I already had, and the opener, which I already had, I have a total of 9 bucks, and 2 hours in this project.
This is a really simple project, if you trust yourself with a test light, a continuity tester and a soldering iron.
Here's how to do it:
First, make sure you have a 12 volt unit. The battery will tell you how many volts. A 12v battery is near the diameter of a AA, but it is shorter.
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________
Second is the parts I needed.
HD# 67880-94 is the rubber boot.
HD# 67854-98 is the Speedometer Reset switch.
The opener, some wire, I used red for hot, black for ground, and purple for the switch.
A 3M Quick Connect, for the hot lead.
Shrink tube and heat-shrink connectors, I like waterproof.
And most important, if you follow the green arrow... Diet Coke.
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________
This is what it looks like, when you take it apart.
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________
This is the bottom of your circuit board. The red arrows point to the back of the switch. Note there are 2 poles to each side of the switch.
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________
This is the top of your circuit board. The purple arrow points to the switch, and the red arrows point to 2 of the poles.
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________
Here it is with all of the wires soldered in place. Note where the red arrow is I bent the corner of the switch up. I used a continuity tester to be sure I did not cross the switch, and found I had, so I bent it up a bit.
Be sure you know which pole is hot and which is ground for your power.
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________
Here it is finished, and reassembled.
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________
In the dash...
Yellow arrow: Hot lead to the accessory lead under the ignition switch.
Green arrow: Ground run to the bolt at the top of my engine guard.
Red arrow: New switch installed.
Purple arrow: I wrapped some weatherproof foam and tape around the unit.
Orange arrow: Chickie's Butt.
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________
Here is the new switch installed...
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________
And here it is once again, finished
Green arrow: Speedometer/Clock/Odometer reset
Red arrow: Garage Door Opener
Orange arrow: Chickie's Butt
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 2,234
Likes: 462
From: Arizona
hey white, can you walk through your opener from start to finish for me? im i little slow on the uptake, did you somehow remotely wire the button? i have a hole in my left side cover from a mistake drill for heated suit , that i want to use for my opener button, but need a bit of help. thanks
Opened up the remote and soldered 2 wires(about 6" long, each) to the contacts that the button operates.
Crimped bullet connectors on the other ends of the same 2 wires. (I used 1 of the 2 remotes that came with the garage door - the kind that clip on to your car sun visor)
Bought the $5.00 momentary switch from Radio Shack and soldered 2 wires (about 6" long, each) to the switch.
Crimped bullet connectors on the other ends of those same 2 wires.
Removed fairing.
Drilled a 1/2" hole in the dash - above the radio & between the tach & voltmeter.
Installed the button through the hole, tie-wrapped the remote & excess wiring to the radio bracket, connected the wiring with the bullet connectors.
Test operate - replace the fairing. (Button works all the time as it's not powered by the bike.)
Here's a pic of the button
IMG_2927-1.jpg?t=1289684034
Last edited by White Ice; Nov 13, 2010 at 03:34 PM.
Advanced
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
From: bremerton WA
Hey Jukebox, I've relocated my tour paks twice. Once one each bike. With my corbin back rest on the seat my wife felt too tight in the bucket. Sooooo, I unbolted the pak. With the bike on the jack in the upright position, I put Momma back on the bike and she sit where it felt good to her. I set the pak back on the brackets and marked the holes from underneath. Redrilled and bolted. Turns out it was only moved back about 1 3/4" inches. Looks no different and she is HAPPY. And we all know what it means when they are Happy. Easy , quick fix and took maybe hour. Good luck and let me know how it turns out.