95" Build
Thread Starter
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Road Master
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,058
Likes: 15
From: Minneapolis, MN
RE: 95" Build
The guy recommended going with the 37g based on my bike etc... He said they had tested several set upsand this one seemed to work out the best. The compression would be 9.6:1 so there would be no pinging.
Road Captain
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 527
Likes: 0
From: Sparks, NV
RE: 95" Build
Go to www.head-quarters-usa.comand look at their 95" kits. Send them your heads and barrels for mods. That way you are sure you will have pistons that fit your barrels perfectly. When you get your heads and barrels back have your Indy put it together for you. Call them, they will gladly talk to you on the phone and will ask you all the questionsyour Indy did'nt ask. It's a little more money, but will lastyou forever. It will also go faster and quicker. Remember, a dynocan be made to tell you anything they want it to. Your butt dyno is the best indicator! Check it out and good luck.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 5,939
Likes: 3
From: TX
RE: 95" Build
The 37 really is not the best cam for a Bagger. They make decent power, but are better suited for lighter bikes. Call & chat w/ andrews & see what they have to say about it. I say this becuase I tried them in my RG.
Without head work (milling), a 95" w/ flattops will be closer to 9.25:1 CR using a .030" gasket. You will not get 9.6:1 in that config and it's HIGHLY unlikely that you'll see 100+ ft/lbs of torque. Even though I (personally) would never use a 37 in a Bagger again, many do. If you choose to do that, at least make sure it's setup right. Ideally 9.5:1 CR and headwork. Also, tune will be critical as will GOOD fuel.
Like the others have said.... do your homework thoroughly before you pull the trigger on something that is "questionable" from the onset.
There have been several good recommendations in previous posts in this thread.....
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 3,647
Likes: 11
From: Stockbridge, GA (Atlanta)
RE: 95" Build
this is excellent advice--for the first build I would get a complete kit from a reputable manufactuer HQs, GMR,S&S, Zippers etc.
I have heard this a time or two --"get parts that compliment each other" trust me this motor building can get expensive -- do it right the first time = homework.
Call them and let them know honestly what you want out of the build--- I wanted to spin the bike tire and pull the front tire in the air ---that's exactlywhat I got from my HQs 103--now I want more.
I have heard this a time or two --"get parts that compliment each other" trust me this motor building can get expensive -- do it right the first time = homework.
Call them and let them know honestly what you want out of the build--- I wanted to spin the bike tire and pull the front tire in the air ---that's exactlywhat I got from my HQs 103--now I want more.
ORIGINAL: old.gezr
Go to www.head-quarters-usa.comand look at their 95" kits. Send them your heads and barrels for mods. That way you are sure you will have pistons that fit your barrels perfectly. When you get your heads and barrels back have your Indy put it together for you. Call them, they will gladly talk to you on the phone and will ask you all the questionsyour Indy did'nt ask. It's a little more money, but will lastyou forever. It will also go faster and quicker. Remember, a dynocan be made to tell you anything they want it to. Your butt dyno is the best indicator! Check it out and good luck.
Go to www.head-quarters-usa.comand look at their 95" kits. Send them your heads and barrels for mods. That way you are sure you will have pistons that fit your barrels perfectly. When you get your heads and barrels back have your Indy put it together for you. Call them, they will gladly talk to you on the phone and will ask you all the questionsyour Indy did'nt ask. It's a little more money, but will lastyou forever. It will also go faster and quicker. Remember, a dynocan be made to tell you anything they want it to. Your butt dyno is the best indicator! Check it out and good luck.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 4,351
Likes: 461
From: Illinois
RE: 95" Build
My dealer offered me the 95 kit for my 2005 Heritage installed with SERT and dynoed for $2300. The kit was just the jugs, pistons and SE cams. No headwork. It was a winter time special I guess, last fall they were closer to $3,000 for the same kit installed.
The were offering the 103 kit for $2,900 and free installation at the time, but in limited quanities and sold out very fast.
Dennis
The were offering the 103 kit for $2,900 and free installation at the time, but in limited quanities and sold out very fast.
Dennis
Tourer
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 304
Likes: 2
From: K.C. M.O.
RE: 95" Build
ORIGINAL: rochkes
My dealer offered me the 95 kit for my 2005 Heritage installed with SERT and dynoed for $2300. The kit was just the jugs, pistons and SE cams. No headwork. It was a winter time special I guess, last fall they were closer to $3,000 for the same kit installed.
My dealer offered me the 95 kit for my 2005 Heritage installed with SERT and dynoed for $2300. The kit was just the jugs, pistons and SE cams. No headwork. It was a winter time special I guess, last fall they were closer to $3,000 for the same kit installed.
Tourer
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 385
Likes: 13
From: longtown
RE: 95" Build
i did a 95 big bore,no head work,same pushrods,37g gear drive with s&s drive gear.i have rinehart duals,stage 1 a/c,stage 2 chip,dynoed at 95 horses,100ft lbs torque. so,those numbers are very doable.
Thread Starter
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Road Master
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,058
Likes: 15
From: Minneapolis, MN
RE: 95" Build
Now you guys have me really thinking about this whole thing. The stuff on HQ site looks great but quite a bit more expensive. On top of that, I'm starting to consider going bigger than 95".
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Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 7,663
Likes: 7
From: Northeast Ohio
RE: 95" Build
If you are going to stay witht he Andrews cams, for the work you are thinking of the 26Gs would be a better choice, and they are not as fussy. I agree with others, check out the packages-complete kits such as HQ or GMR or others. Unless you really now what you want and can bounce your suggested build off someone that has acutal experience with the parts working well with the whole setup, you may end up with a build that either disappoints in terms of power or rideability.
As far as going bigger than 95", go for it if you have a good builder, and a deeper wallet. Once you get beyong 95-103 builds, you really need to stick with packaged builds as the difference in compatability between components becomes more pronounced as the displacement goes up.
As far as going bigger than 95", go for it if you have a good builder, and a deeper wallet. Once you get beyong 95-103 builds, you really need to stick with packaged builds as the difference in compatability between components becomes more pronounced as the displacement goes up.