Another oil thread................

Such a great concern........

 

1. BELIEVE ME THAT 1ST OIL CHANGE WASNT FREE..
2. MOTOR OIL OUT AT 1000. THEN EVERY 4 TO 5000
3. PRIM AND TRAY EVERY 5000

 

OK from reading this forum I've noticed a lot of you have fallen for the marketing HYPE of
Mobil 1, Amsoil, and others.
Here are some links of rather dull reading, but enligthening the same.
I've mentioned in the past that buying some of the "exotic" lubricants mentioned in this forum
is actually a waste of money.
I've noted several times my personal preference is Valvoline. either pure petroleum or semi syn durablend. We don't have the high heat issues here in Wyoming that those of you in some other states have, so our air cooled motors will perform just fine.
The one link is from Synlube Lube for life. They mostly talk about Mobil 1, but from other readings elsewhere (in college, mechanic field literature, and the web) they are pretty much unbiased.
I doubt you all will actually read all the info provided, but it is interesting reading, especially if you want quality lubrication and want it at a lower price.

http://www.synlube.com/synthetic.htm Just scroll down and read the main page (about 15 minutes)
Then you can (if you want ) go back and read the other links on their page)
Even tells you Redlines original company name.

shorter perhaps no bias article. Note some citations are needed for a specific claim.
But does help support article in the above link.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Synthetic_oil

there are hundreds of other web sites that talk about composition and pros and cons.

And documentation on the API service classifications of engine oils (dino or syn)
http://www.aa1car.com/library/api_mo...ifications.htm


My 06 EGC owners manual says 5k for oil changes, it came with natural petroleum oil from the factory / dealer.
I buy carquest brand (manufactured by Valvoline) 20w-50 at a $1.74 qt. x 4 = $6.96
after 5k = .000139 cents to use.
and valvoline durablend 20/50 $3.90 qt x 4=$15.60 / 5k mile = .00312 cents to use
and full synthetic 20/50 $6.49qt x 4 =$25.96 / 5k mile =.005192 to use

As you can see the price paid for actual use pe rmile is miniscule.
does anybody here actually go over 5k between oil changes, regularly?
Are there advantageous to syn vs petroleum sure. But do you need to use it no.
apparently per HD when my bike was made and petroleum was the norm and original
oil installed by factory / dealer they felt old dino oil would do just fine for a 5k based oil
change schedule anywhere in the united states.
So why spend more on the "exotics"?
I know there will be lots of reasons, but the question is rhetorical!

One last link: http://www.getg.com/index.php

 

Most of you just reinforced what I already thought. I'll just do the 5000 mile changes.

This is not really a thread on Dino vs. Syn....Honestly, I did up to 4k on my Dino. Choochoo good info. My last dealer just said stick with dino in my '06 and I did. This bike due to the heat I'm trying the Syn though not sure if it will help...hard to tell when your riding at 50 degrees.

 

Glad I'm not the only one

Went to synthetic at 1,000 then changed it at 2,800 before Sturgis just to be safe. Last change was at 6,800 (all three) and I will do it again at 10,000 to get back to regular 5,000 mile intervals. I hate doing it at odd ball numbers. My mind will be happier doing it at 10k, 15K, 20K etc... Doesn't matter really as long as you get it done somewhere between 3-5k.

 

+1 more. The oils (fossil & synthetic) are much better quality than those from 50 (even 25) years ago. Every 5,000 is all that is necessary. More frequently than that with a new motor and new oils is wasting money.

 

I always break 'em in with regular HD oil and change it at 1000, 3000, and go to synthetic somewhere around 5 or 6 k. I always change the filter and gaskets too. Once I have synthetic in it I usually go 4-5k between changes. Best o'luck !

 

What is the purpose (benefit) of breaking in with dino fuel and waiting to switch to synthetic at 5 or 6k? The CVOs have synthetic out the showroom door.

 

Changed to syn 3 at the 1k mark. Dealer did it at no additional cost as it was part of the sale. I stayed with the suggested schedule and changed at the 5K mark. Going forward will be 10, 15, etc. so it's easy to remember.

 

Not exactly apples to apples, but what the hell, this IS an oil thread ;-)

On a BMW web board, three guys decided to do some oil testing based on mileage. A large number of people thought that those of us who went by BMW's recommended oil change interval of 6,000mi were nuts, and insisted we needed to change at 3000 or less. All of the guys rode 1150 versions of the BMW boxer, air cooled engines that produce 92hp at the crank from 1150cc, so they have a good bit higher specific output compared to the Harley motor.

Guy #1 was a commuter only, used his bike to city ride to work and back. Guy #2 was the long haul tourer type, only long highway trips. Guy #3 was a back road burner, running his bike hard in the mountains on Deals Gap type roads.

Results? All three guys pulled a sample of oil (good ol' dead dyno) at 6kmi, and sent it in to a known oil analysis company (can't remember the name). Analysis said all three oil samples were in specification, and would likely remain in specification over the next service interval. The guys then pulled oil at 12,000mi, and the analysis was the same, good, and likely to remain good. They pulled the oil at 18,000mi, and the analyasis for all three said the oil was in specification, but likely would NOT remain in specification over the next service interval. All three dumped their oil at this point, end of test.

So, there was absolutely no risk in running the recommended BMW oil change interval, and I feel there is NO risk running the Harley 5000mi per the manual. In fact, if I was at 4500mi, and didn't have time to change before a 2000mi trip, I wouldn't sweat it.