Hello everyone,

I recently purchased a 1998 Electra Classic with 38,000 miles. This bike was a one owner who traded it in on a new ride. The problem I am having is when you first start after being turned off for a short time, the idle will be very high 1800 rpms. It will do this for a while around 5 minutes. Then it drops to around 1000. Is this normal or do I have a problem? All the other bikes I have owned that are EFI run high for around 30 seconds then go to normal idle.

Any help is greatly appreciated. I really love this bike and is very clean. Runs great other than that.

 

if bike is injected you can look for engine codes like this:
run/off switch turned to run
1-turn ignition key switch to ignition and then turn off 1 second after fuel pump stops.
2.repeat #1 again..remember 1 second after pump stops
3.turn ignition key switch to ignition and wait about 8 seconds for a bunch of flashing of the check engine light
it will then stop for 2 seconds..get ready... these are the codes you must count:
it will slowly flash 1,2,3,5....there is NO 4....this is the first digit of the 2 digit code ..so it can only be 1,2,3,5 __ __
then a 2 second pause...then you will get second digit of the 2 digit code..it can only be 1,2,3,4,5,6
remember after the complete 2 digit code is given you will go back to the rapid flash sequence..
there are a total of 15 codes available with this procedure
examples
52,53,54,55 bad news ECM replacement
56 crank/cam sensor
11 throttle sensor
12 barometric 14 engine temp. sensor 15 intake temp sensor
23 and 32 are injectors front/rear
24 coil
33 fuel pump relay--in this case you would not hear the pump but instead waited 3 seconds after the on / off sequence

 

i have 1998 road king fuel injected.
i do not have a tach.
i really do not notice a huge difference from cold to hot.
if the idle is not eratic then all should be well.
if it does become eratic and seems to hunt then it may be the engine temp. sensor..BUT from your desription all is well at this time.
just for information this is a cut/paste from another thread on engine temp. sensor.
engine temp sensor.. Part # 32446-95A HD dealer . Cost $94.50 eratic idle, rev high for no reason for a while. If you do change the sensor it is not difficult. Take out the two bolts that hold the gas tank up front and just propped the front of the tank up to make room, also unpluged wires going to the coil. You need a deep socket to get the sensor out. After putting in reset the hi and low idle. Bike should go from a high to low idle in about one and ahalf minutes when cold. The manual has good instructions on how to rest your idles.

 

Wonder if it was a fixable problem or the dealers didn't know about it. Worse case you can always rip out the EFI out put in a Carb (S&S "E") for around 500-1000$.

I have a 1998 FLHTCUI. I am interested in any issues that may arise with yours. I just boughtminelast September. I am on the fence on whether or not to keep the EFI.I do know this is the last year of the EVO motor and thats a great thing. I recently stalled and as a consequence when the sequence of turning it on red light goes off and I start it, the red lite comes on then off(a sign of something?)its not suppose to but I imagine as a consequence of stalling it caused that irregularity.

Is it a 95th anniversary?

 

I had a similar problem on my 98. Took forever to drop to low idle, also would idle high for no reason sometimes. I changed the engine temp. sensor and reset the high and low idle and problem solved. Good luck!

 

when you read the codes thru the check engine light with instructions above please note that any burp, fart, missed start or back fire at start-up can trigger a code #56 cam position sensor.. the way to erase the codes is to disconect the positive from battery....the cam position sensor will melt away over time and making starting difficult..
here are some cut and pasted intructions for cam position sensor. the 98 road king uses a thin round aluminum-type cover with a V-2 inscribed, this thin cover is held by "CLOSED END RIVETS" on the top + bottom to the round plate behind it that is made of thick metal..about 4 times thicker than the V-2 aluminum cover..this second thick cover is then held in place with two phillips head screws /one on the left the other on the right..on a 98 evo there will be no gasket if bike is original from the factory..the paper gasket probably turned to dust if there was one ...any cover that you purchase will be round with 2 screws on the horizontal (one left / one right) some kits bring a gasket (just in case)--a replacement cover will not use rivets..
***by the way when you remove the 2 rivets/first plate and the 2 screw/second plate do not be surprised to find some biege goo/melted plastic this is the sensor,vas,fl part number 32448-95a $180 thru walk-up dealer or about $140 thru surdyke HD internet...this sensor is on a plate..the sensor and plate are a unit and are sold as such...if your bike is fuel injected the removal of this plate is straight forward and will not alter the timing..only one way to place it..get the service manual it will walk you through it..never..ever use normal rivets if you decide to re-use the old V-2 cover..closed end rivets are designed to be sealed--no metal--no water getting in the case ..dealer charges about 2 hours labor plus parts.. just to help those who work on their own bikes...1) the rivets for the timer cover are closed end rivets..not the regular ones you can find in every store...if you do find them at a specialty place like Granger industrial you need to buy a box..i bought some from HD dealer for $1 each..needed x 2.... 2) the stock timer cover can sparkle better than new if you strip off the old plastic protective cover with some acetone once removed from the bike..clean and then use the HD chrome cleaner tube stuff 3) do not fear opening the timer cover if you have an evo fuel injected because
the timer plate electronics is held in place with 2 screws..that even when removed/replaced will only allow placement in one place only..unlike the carb. bikes that the timer interior plate is critical for proper timing of engine. the two allen bolts that hold the cable below the timer cone area are in a pia location ...just behind the pipes...do not want to remove the main pipe...will try to cut down the L-part of allen wrench to see if i can loosen it enough to slide old cable out and new cable in.. i cut a 3/16 allen wrench so that it would about 1/4 inch long and was able to slip it into the two allen bolt head screws that are on the clip that holds the cable behind the muffler pipe on the timer cone area...used small adjustable wrench to start turning cut allen tool... then thin pliers untill it hit themuffler pipe..gives about 1/2 inch of room..it is enough if you have to change cam plate or clean out area..saves having to remove muffler head assembly..

 

jazz,

That color combo looks great on your bike.

 

How long after you get the light to start flashing fast does it take to give the slow flash for the first part of the code. Seems I was watching it flash for almsot 5 minutes and it never gave me a slow one that was readable.

Thank to all in advance, most are pointing to the temp sensor. Just a note, once the idel drops down it stays ok until it is turned off again.

 

im,

If you don't mind my asking what is your over all impression of the 1998 EFI compared to a carb?

 

i think they are reliable motorcycles BUT the most common issues i see posted are #1 engine temp sensor and #2 cam position sensor #3 leaking LCD display on road king odometer
in my opinion if you take care of the bike and complete regular maintance. stick to air cleaners, slip-ons mufflers and a fuel management device you should get many years of riding..