This is probably the most asked questions on the forum, but hey...may as well add to it.

So I'm starting to think about my stage 1 options. Handlebars have to come first, but then it's on to the power stuff. I have a few questions...

1) Pipes: I really love the eagle beak Rinehardts, so I want to go with those. However...slip-ons vs. true duals? From what I've read, it sounds like the true duals are really better for hot rodding? I'm not going for much more than Stage 1, and it sounds like most of the power gain from true duals comes at the top end of the RPM range. Is this correct? For just normal riding, wanting a bit more pep, are slip-ons plenty?

2) Air Cleaner: I put the SE cleaner on my Sporty, and planned on doing the same for the RKC. Any other great options? Again, looking for bang for buck on this one...

3) EFI Changes: Here's where I'm really confused. My Sporty was a carb bike, and I put on the Yost master kit. Worked great. But I hear lots about PCIII, etc. I know I can just get a download, but it seems like most people put on their own systems such as the PCIII. What's the reason to do this? What are the advantages over just getting a simple remap at the stealer? What's the cost / work addition?

I'd like to do all the work myself that I can, unless it's pretty tricky.

Thanks for any thoughts!

Oh...and 1 more thing. How do these changes affect warranty? I don't want to lose mine...

 

First off, I know you've seen this in other posts, I recommend the search function, probably get everything you need to know about Stage 1, but I'll give you some food for thought 'cause I'm stuck at work and it's lunch time.

Pipes, your option, I hear you gain HP with true duals but lose torque. Of course, with true duals you get a little more of the "stereo" exhaust effect. For real power, 2 into 1. I run Rush slip ons, straight from Rush, but FuelMoto has some killer deals and a great baffle design. I will probably upgrade my Rush with their baffles in the future.

Air cleaner, again, lots of good ones out there. I got an Arlen Ness Big Sucker off E-Bay cheaper than an SE, but SE is OK. There is also Zipper's, Dougherty, K& Nand a lot of others.

EFI - Yes, easy to get confused. I went with FuelPak, cheap, easy and even I could figure this one out. If I swap out for FuelMoto, I would probably start migrating to PCIII. You can get a remap at the dealer, but they are usually generic and not specific to the application unless you buy into some dyno time.

What I will tell you is when I added the slip ons, FuelPak and Air cleaner, it just wasn't some improvement, it is readily noticeable.

Hope that helps! Good Luck!

 

I've seen those Eagle Beaks.....Here's my .02 cents: I did the K&N/Eagle Beaks/Stealer down load (increased HP by 12), mine is an '03 mind you - run's gr8, sounds gr8, get's 44mpg.

I did not do true duals (I like the looks of the crossover), with the Eagle Beaks you'll be hard pressed to tell the difference in sound esp. when you twist the grip. I have no heat issues, very lil popping on decel from time to time (kinda like it) and it has 'nuff power for me.

Eagle Beaks ($479.00)about a two beer install (get new clamps) the box say's "all hardware include" nope!!!
K&N ($54.00 - was a close out)
Download ($149.00)

Later

 

putting in my 2cents.

I started out with V&H Ovals and went to Rinehart Tru-duals. At the sametime, I upgraded to the Ness Big Sucker Stage 1 and V&H FuelPak. That made a huge difference. Heat, sound, smell, power. Yes, smell. It is night and day. I now have the Power Commander on it and it's a new world once again. The PCIII from Fuelmoto came pre-mapped. All that I had to do was set my zero throttle. Simple to do with laptop handy. I consider the move for the fuelpak to the pc3 to be an improvement as well. The pc3 doesn't have any lag to it. My cold startup is instant. The ride is smoother.

Doing the Stage 1 upgrade gives you a ton more of what your bike has to offer. I did all of the upgrades myself and think everyone should do the same. These changes are a piece of cake. The only difficulties I had the whole way was the one header bolt for the true duals. The angle is jacked up and you can't get a socket in there to tighten. I bastardized one of those freebie tools from some furniture kit and was able to get things all snug. I cannot guarentee that the torque is what is called for on that one bolt, but it aint' going anywhere. I've put 3k miles on the pipes and it hasn't moved.

Luckily, my buddy with a RK has been buying the parts off of me as I upgrade. He's gonna have the Ovals, fuelpak and ness Big sucker setup. He gets a deal, I get to buy new things. win-win in my book.

 

big prob with going with the download is you're stuck with it. if it isn't quite right for your combination of bolt-ons then you can't put the bike on a dyno and tune it. better to go with a SERT or something else adjustable. a few more $$$ but will be worth it if you have to put your bike on a dyno.

 

Found this on another thread the other day...thought I'd pass it on to ya....it's a link talking about stage 1 upgrades.

GOOD READING FOR STAGE I UPGRADE

Good Luck!!!

Billy G

 

Great Article!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! This should be a sticky...



Malac

 

Well, I'll give ya my 2 cents as well. I've built and had motors built for some time now and would tell ya this:
Going big bore, heads, cams and all the other bs is just that bs. Even if, and that's a big if, you gain any real power, it won't be enough to tell much difference. People always say that their bike pulls so much harder and runs so much faster ... BULLSHIT. It's a HARLEY! Top be "fast" you'll need to get hp up to around 120 - 150 hp. That's expensive!
True duals and 2 into 1 exhausts are great for built motors that need the extra flow and can gain power with it. The truth is that a stock or stage 1 motor simply can't capitalize on the efficiencies of these types of systems. A Ness or SE air cleaner will let it breath in easier and the slip ons will help it belch it out. A simple download will get ya closer to correct fuel / air and maybe timing but you can't change it or anything else on the bike. Bust out the extra cash for a Power Commander, SERT or the like. Get one that can adjust the rear cylinder separately to get rid of that lean issue.
Your bike will have a nice broad torque band, good usable horspower, run cooler and get better mileage. You're just doing what HD can't, due to their being restricted by EPA standards.
You can simply grind out that pesky "hangnail" in your stock Y-pipe and gain about 4 - 5 hp that way too. You'll have more power that way than true duals or 2 into 1 with a stage 1 motor.
Put the bike on a dyno and have it tuned by a good technician and you'll be happy. I'd buy the SERT or power commander as most HD dealers can tune them.
Don't fall for all the dyno crap you see on here either. It is easy to show power increases on a chart, too many variables that can show differences. Go to a few dyno shoot outs and you'll see. I have a buddy with a monster bagger that does this 6 times a summer or so. I've seen him win nearly every time and the hp and torque numbers are all over the place. I've seen it run from 138 hp / 125 lbs up to 153 hp / 142 lbs. Same motor same conditions.
Remember when they show you a chart after your first motor work, the standard (stock) lines are rarely EVER the actual bike! They are stock charts on file and used as a reference on every bike they do. THIS IS A FACT GUYS.
Buy what you like the looks of and the sound of and get the most out of it ... then just ride it like ya stole it.
And if all that motor work makes ya think it's fast, then more power to ya (pun intended)!


IMHO,
U

 

Make sure to get the IED's or XiEDs here's a thread link to a 34 page thread about them.

https://www.hdforums.com/m_2836828/m...tm.htm#3313670

 

Right from BUB's website,

http://bub.com/Motorcycles/Harley/FL...0/05-7000.html

"BUB 7 True Duel systems utilize performance-proven stepped header technology running 1 7/8" to 2"; available with crossover/ balance tube for impressive bottom-end and mid-range performance or without cross-over for mid-range and top-end performance"

As far as big bore and cams, you cannot beat C.I. and C.R. increases, with a complimemtary cam choice,flat out fact,

My Bagger build dyno'd at 95.93 Ft/Lbs of torque, though some think dyno runs are useless,

Perfect for two up touring,

95 C.I.
9.5 to 1 C.R.
Headwork by Branch, PT Head Mods,
Branch BBI 515 cams with gear drive,
Feuling Oil Pump,
Feuling Cam Plate,
SuperTrapp Kerker Slip On's with the Mikuni Baffle,