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I am just leaning the MAP in the Cruising Range between 2500 and 3000 RPM on the expanded map and 10 and 20% TP. I just (last Week) lowered the numbers from the map loaded when it was Dynoed Last year. I went 2 -3points down in the RPM range. So far My milage has gone from 35mpg to 40mpg. I have not yet hit the sweet spot. Can not remember off hand what the map setting right now is will get back to ya. I am going to lean it some more since my oil temp when cruising is still below 220 deg when Air temp is 85.
I have found though if I lean out the numbers below 10% I start to run HOT So I am going to leave that on the rich side.
I read in another thread that you installed the HUB on your bike. how is that working for ya? The HUB will be my next fuel system upgradeI am also looking at adding the LCD and the WB2 when it comes out.
You brought out a good point I usually fail to mention. If you have an advanced map, i.e. each cylinder tuned individually, the map needs to be changed for both tables! You can tell if it is an advanced map if you see two A/F and two ignition tables in your software graph.
I'm surprised you've seen that big a mileage jump with such a small change. With my map switch, I get about 43mpg on the rich map (original Fuel Moto), about 50mpg on the lean one for the same route, and the difference in values between the two maps is about 20-25!
I think the difference is that I am working off of a custom map done on a DYNO specificaly for my bike. The Maps dynojet and Fuelmoto send out are usually on the rich side so they do not expose themselves to to much liability from an over lean and detonating set-up. So I am really fine tuning my set-up for my riding style vs. the dyno run. Whereas you are actually creating your own custom MAP that works just for you.
If you compare the original MAP I loaded from dynojet to the DYNO map it is different by 10 -15% in some areas.
I am looking to get the WB2 just so I can over tweak it to see what I can get out of the bike. I think the payoff will be that I will not have to ever Dyno the bike again I could just do it driving down the road.
Harley states in different placesin the service manual that normal operating temperature is 230 degrees. You don't have to be afraid of temps in that range, especially when running synthetic.
Harley states in different placesin the service manual that normal operating temperature is 230 degrees. You don't have to be afraid of temps in that range, especially when running synthetic.
I wouldn't want to see 230° riding down the road. In traffic I think it could climb near this temp without worry, but I don't even like seeing 230°. Since it has only occurred in heavy traffic in summer, I'm hoping my oil-cooler fan setup will help.
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