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2011 Street Glide 103:
SE Pro Tuner
255 cams
Python True Duels
SE intake
84.98 Max HP and 108.96 Max Torque.
Runs SO much better after a REAL tuner got his hands on it. My dealer's tune was 78.6 on the HP and 98.6 on the Torque. Gone is the lean conditions, the running HOT and backfire on decel. Very happy with it now.
2011 Street Glide 103:
SE Pro Tuner
255 cams
Python True Duels
SE intake
84.98 Max HP and 108.96 Max Torque.
Runs SO much better after a REAL tuner got his hands on it. My dealer's tune was 78.6 on the HP and 98.6 on the Torque. Gone is the lean conditions, the running HOT and backfire on decel. Very happy with it now.
Hey guys, love this thread. I have looked at a lot of Dyno sheets here and mine does not look right. I was very meticulous about how I broke this new bike in and it ran really good bone stock. I am sure that this is why I am seeing the torque numbers I have (100.01). I took it in at 1100 miles and had the stage 1 stuff done, I know I could get more with a less restrictive exhaust but I like the sound and out of repect for the neighbors, this is a good compromise. Here is my problem, look at the Air fuel mixture. It drops throughout the RPM hitting well below 12:1 at about 5100 RPM. Butt Dyno feels like it falls off above 3K RPM and LOTS of backfire on throttle off. Does this look right to you guys?
Hey guys, love this thread. I have looked at a lot of Dyno sheets here and mine does not look right. I was very meticulous about how I broke this new bike in and it ran really good bone stock. I am sure that this is why I am seeing the torque numbers I have (100.01). I took it in at 1100 miles and had the stage 1 stuff done, I know I could get more with a less restrictive exhaust but I like the sound and out of repect for the neighbors, this is a good compromise. Here is my problem, look at the Air fuel mixture. It drops throughout the RPM hitting well below 12:1 at about 5100 RPM. Butt Dyno feels like it falls off above 3K RPM and LOTS of backfire on throttle off. Does this look right to you guys?
No it doesn't. A properly tuned bike will seldom backfire but then it is difficult to impossible to tune a bike depending on the type of mufflers they have, and sensors the system uses.
My 2009 RKC is currently at 94 ft/lbs and 70 hp and runs and sounds great. I have a KN filter (stock plate), SERT and VH 4" round slip-ons.
I wanted different mufflers - the monster ovals, fishtails or horns but my local Dyno guru said no; the narrow band sensors which feed data to the electronic fuel injector (EFI) can't read pipes properly unless there's a very uniform set of mufflers on. This is due to the limitations of the sensors themselves but also to the shape of the mufflers which can sometimes create second shock waves. The shape of the mufflers is important when it comes to creating the environment that these sensors need to read. This guy has been racing Harley's and running his own dyno since they existed. He wouldn't tune my bike if I bought fancy mufflers - he said there would be no point and wouldn't take my money. I trust him and his rep is almost legendary around here.
My 'limited' understanding is that many problems can be fixed by using standard vanilla mufflers such as VH 4" rounds or ovals. This stabilizes the volumetric efficiency enough for the narrow band sensors to be able to read and adjust the EFI in real time.
No it doesn't. A properly tuned bike will seldom backfire but then it is difficult to impossible to tune a bike depending on the type of mufflers they have, and sensors the system uses.
My 2009 RKC is currently at 94 ft/lbs and 70 hp and runs and sounds great. I have a KN filter (stock plate), SERT and VH 4" round slip-ons.
I wanted different mufflers - the monster ovals, fishtails or horns but my local Dyno guru said no; the narrow band sensors which feed data to the electronic fuel injector (EFI) can't read pipes properly unless there's a very uniform set of mufflers on. This is due to the limitations of the sensors themselves but also to the shape of the mufflers which can sometimes create second shock waves. The shape of the mufflers is important when it comes to creating the environment that these sensors need to read. This guy has been racing Harley's and running his own dyno since they existed. He wouldn't tune my bike if I bought fancy mufflers - he said there would be no point and wouldn't take my money. I trust him and his rep is almost legendary around here.
My 'limited' understanding is that many problems can be fixed by using standard vanilla mufflers such as VH 4" rounds or ovals. This stabilizes the volumetric efficiency enough for the narrow band sensors to be able to read and adjust the EFI in real time.
So, because I have Monster ovals, this bike cannot be tuned?
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