Is it oil or fuel?
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Road Captain
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 616
Likes: 1
From:
Ok, I feel better about that. I'm going to get a new set of exhaust gaskets and try that. If that don't work then I don't know what to do than take it 70 miles to the dealer.
I checked the codes on the odometer and in the P system which is ECM/ICM it said no rsP. The rest of the systems said none.
Any idea what no rsP means?
I checked the codes on the odometer and in the P system which is ECM/ICM it said no rsP. The rest of the systems said none.
Any idea what no rsP means?
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 4,999
Likes: 55
From: Bay Area
It does look dry, is the frt cyl look the same? Reason I ask is if you have the oem header the frt MAY be leaking and with the xover pipe, the rear cyl may be sucking it out the left side when it scavenges. Thats the design of a crossover pipe, cars use either x or H pipes.
I had an evo, it never used any oil between changes. Then I put in a cam and a SE ign module, so not too long after that I noticed I started using some oil, first it was a qt bet changes, then it went to about 1/2 qt in about 1200 miles. Being a wrench and picky as I was it bugged the hell out of me. I had no leaks, plugs never fouled, no exh smoke.
Finally after riding with some fellow mechanics in the twisties, one guy says I have a puff of smoke from the rear pipe on decel and on shifting. But it was almost invisible, and come to think of it I had the fume smell.
I let it go since there was no dire emergency that I was polluting it lasted about 2 years until one day riding 2 up it smoked like a pig. Thats when I found both exh seals puking and had bent pr/valves.
I figured I did that once hot rodding and missed a shift and with an 8k limiter the valves floated into one another (confirmed by old hd mechs.)
Sorry for the long post but just wanted to share the knowledge and info with you. There was a similiar post recently where a guy had the same issue as you and it turned out to be seals and he only had about 10k on a build.
I would ride it until it gets worse or to the winter then do the 95 kit like youre hoping for.
I had an evo, it never used any oil between changes. Then I put in a cam and a SE ign module, so not too long after that I noticed I started using some oil, first it was a qt bet changes, then it went to about 1/2 qt in about 1200 miles. Being a wrench and picky as I was it bugged the hell out of me. I had no leaks, plugs never fouled, no exh smoke.
Finally after riding with some fellow mechanics in the twisties, one guy says I have a puff of smoke from the rear pipe on decel and on shifting. But it was almost invisible, and come to think of it I had the fume smell.
I let it go since there was no dire emergency that I was polluting it lasted about 2 years until one day riding 2 up it smoked like a pig. Thats when I found both exh seals puking and had bent pr/valves.
I figured I did that once hot rodding and missed a shift and with an 8k limiter the valves floated into one another (confirmed by old hd mechs.)
Sorry for the long post but just wanted to share the knowledge and info with you. There was a similiar post recently where a guy had the same issue as you and it turned out to be seals and he only had about 10k on a build.
I would ride it until it gets worse or to the winter then do the 95 kit like youre hoping for.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 2,598
Likes: 52
From: South Jersey
I get exhaust fumes from my '06 SG but it comes and goes. I don't know whether it's due to what gas I'm using or possibly ambient temps. I've looked for exhaust leaks but didn't find any. When it happens my cloths actually smell like exhaust. I have 12K on the clock but it's been doing this since practically new. Plugs look good. Bike has a SERT and has been Dynoed 3 times. Hey, maybe that's what screwed it up?
Thread Starter
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Road Captain
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 616
Likes: 1
From:
It does look dry, is the frt cyl look the same? Reason I ask is if you have the oem header the frt MAY be leaking and with the xover pipe, the rear cyl may be sucking it out the left side when it scavenges. Thats the design of a crossover pipe, cars use either x or H pipes.
I had an evo, it never used any oil between changes. Then I put in a cam and a SE ign module, so not too long after that I noticed I started using some oil, first it was a qt bet changes, then it went to about 1/2 qt in about 1200 miles. Being a wrench and picky as I was it bugged the hell out of me. I had no leaks, plugs never fouled, no exh smoke.
Finally after riding with some fellow mechanics in the twisties, one guy says I have a puff of smoke from the rear pipe on decel and on shifting. But it was almost invisible, and come to think of it I had the fume smell.
I let it go since there was no dire emergency that I was polluting it lasted about 2 years until one day riding 2 up it smoked like a pig. Thats when I found both exh seals puking and had bent pr/valves.
I figured I did that once hot rodding and missed a shift and with an 8k limiter the valves floated into one another (confirmed by old hd mechs.)
Sorry for the long post but just wanted to share the knowledge and info with you. There was a similiar post recently where a guy had the same issue as you and it turned out to be seals and he only had about 10k on a build.
I would ride it until it gets worse or to the winter then do the 95 kit like youre hoping for.
I had an evo, it never used any oil between changes. Then I put in a cam and a SE ign module, so not too long after that I noticed I started using some oil, first it was a qt bet changes, then it went to about 1/2 qt in about 1200 miles. Being a wrench and picky as I was it bugged the hell out of me. I had no leaks, plugs never fouled, no exh smoke.
Finally after riding with some fellow mechanics in the twisties, one guy says I have a puff of smoke from the rear pipe on decel and on shifting. But it was almost invisible, and come to think of it I had the fume smell.
I let it go since there was no dire emergency that I was polluting it lasted about 2 years until one day riding 2 up it smoked like a pig. Thats when I found both exh seals puking and had bent pr/valves.
I figured I did that once hot rodding and missed a shift and with an 8k limiter the valves floated into one another (confirmed by old hd mechs.)
Sorry for the long post but just wanted to share the knowledge and info with you. There was a similiar post recently where a guy had the same issue as you and it turned out to be seals and he only had about 10k on a build.
I would ride it until it gets worse or to the winter then do the 95 kit like youre hoping for.
I would just ride it but the smell is getting to me. Almost makes me light headed sometimes.
Any suggestions on a 95 kit?
Tourer
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 358
Likes: 0
From: Hammonton, NJ
How did the plugs look? Judging by the exhaust port everything looks good. I don't see any signs of oil. If it is barely noticeable and only shows up intermently I would not sweat it.
Double check your breathers on your AC also. You could be sucking too much oil mist out of the crankcase though I would think that would be evident out of both pipes. That is the advantage of true duals is you are able to locate which cylinder is causing the issue. Do you have an infrared temperature gauge? You can get one at Harbor Frieght for $10. See if the rear cylinder is running cooler than the front. Rear should be hotter however if it is running really rich that could be the cause.
I had a lifter go bad in my bike a few months back and now I always think I hear one going bad. Maybe the smell is just in your mind as you are searching it out.
Again based on what you stated I would just ride it and not worry about it. If you plan on doing an upgrade later you can resolve it at that time.
Double check your breathers on your AC also. You could be sucking too much oil mist out of the crankcase though I would think that would be evident out of both pipes. That is the advantage of true duals is you are able to locate which cylinder is causing the issue. Do you have an infrared temperature gauge? You can get one at Harbor Frieght for $10. See if the rear cylinder is running cooler than the front. Rear should be hotter however if it is running really rich that could be the cause.
I had a lifter go bad in my bike a few months back and now I always think I hear one going bad. Maybe the smell is just in your mind as you are searching it out.
Again based on what you stated I would just ride it and not worry about it. If you plan on doing an upgrade later you can resolve it at that time.
Road Captain
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 656
Likes: 0
From: gone
No, a compression test will check the valve seat and ring/piston to wall. The valve seal prevents oil from running down the valve stem from the rockers.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 2,424
Likes: 0
From: Hoboken, New Jersey
I just wanted to point out one thing. After each time you remove the header pipes, by rights you should change that exhaust gasket. The ones I recommend are the SE steel mesh units. They do a much better job of sealing the gap.
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Thread Starter
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Road Captain
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 616
Likes: 1
From:
How did the plugs look? Judging by the exhaust port everything looks good. I don't see any signs of oil. If it is barely noticeable and only shows up intermently I would not sweat it.
Double check your breathers on your AC also. You could be sucking too much oil mist out of the crankcase though I would think that would be evident out of both pipes. That is the advantage of true duals is you are able to locate which cylinder is causing the issue. Do you have an infrared temperature gauge? You can get one at Harbor Frieght for $10. See if the rear cylinder is running cooler than the front. Rear should be hotter however if it is running really rich that could be the cause.
I had a lifter go bad in my bike a few months back and now I always think I hear one going bad. Maybe the smell is just in your mind as you are searching it out.
Again based on what you stated I would just ride it and not worry about it. If you plan on doing an upgrade later you can resolve it at that time.
Double check your breathers on your AC also. You could be sucking too much oil mist out of the crankcase though I would think that would be evident out of both pipes. That is the advantage of true duals is you are able to locate which cylinder is causing the issue. Do you have an infrared temperature gauge? You can get one at Harbor Frieght for $10. See if the rear cylinder is running cooler than the front. Rear should be hotter however if it is running really rich that could be the cause.
I had a lifter go bad in my bike a few months back and now I always think I hear one going bad. Maybe the smell is just in your mind as you are searching it out.
Again based on what you stated I would just ride it and not worry about it. If you plan on doing an upgrade later you can resolve it at that time.
I talked to Headquarters shop today and he said that 99% of the time when you smell fuel or oil on the decell that is was valve quide seals.
If I had a bad valve guide seal it sounds like it would be evident in the picture so I'm going to explore some other options before spending $2600.
I did have my air cleaner off to re oil my K&N the other day. I pulled the air cleaner base plate off to clean it. I had to pull the black grommets off and pull out the studs they go over. Did I do something wrong putting it back together that may be an issue?